bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Thanks there daman.Have heard from you much lately,you been working lots I guess.Me well,leaving my old boss slowly,doing work for my former company installing Kitchen and Bathroom countertops.My partner and I will be going full blast together on our own stuff,doing all kinds of work.We have a 14 foot panel truck now for hauling goods.We are looking for more contacts for work.We both told the boss we will be leaving him,and he is pissed.To bad..so sad.Never got my raise,so I will be going.Now he is trying to entice me to stay.Says I'll pay you more,but stay please.Heard that all before,that's why I don't trust him anymore.
Looking forward to the future with my partner and trying to get him to buy a Yamaha sled to so we can go riding together.Later.
Looking forward to the future with my partner and trying to get him to buy a Yamaha sled to so we can go riding together.Later.
daman
New member
Yup not mutch time in the summer for computers,gota build up my sleding
stash for the winter ya know,
, good to hear your still working too many
people out of work these days.
stash for the winter ya know,
, good to hear your still working too many people out of work these days.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
more adjustments
Anyways set up my suspension today.Now remember I flipped the shock brackets up front for more height to.Got center shock at 0 preset.Replaced the bottom plastic washers on the transfer rods from 10mm ones to 5mm ones.Just sanded down some new ones with belt sander.Got my spacing for long travelled suspension at about 18mm ,the gap on the upper side of the transfer rod.When I sit on the sled front end stays put,and I get a 50/50 spacing now on the upper and lower gaps of the transfer rods.Set my limiters for now at about 10mm of thread exposed.This will allow the front of the skid to drop into any hole and the shock could work better to.May even loosen it up more,will see in time after riding a bit.Sure like the feel of long travel on the skid,feels so much softer and more play.Should help the back a bit.Like it on my SXR,which I do a lot of ditch banging and jumps with,and don't bottom out and landings are smooth,and my back is good by it.On the original SRX skid,I felt my lower back and spine take the brunt of the bumps and in rough terrain.Anything helps at this point.Basically just want a sled that will accelerate quickly and get to top speed fast in the open areas.Maybe next year I'll spend some extra $$$$ on it and get the porting done and or maybe put in a bigbore kit...780 perhaps.A little at a time,but I will get there as the cash comes in.When you are replacing old parts with new,the sled is always new then.I just love my SRX...that's all.
Anyways set up my suspension today.Now remember I flipped the shock brackets up front for more height to.Got center shock at 0 preset.Replaced the bottom plastic washers on the transfer rods from 10mm ones to 5mm ones.Just sanded down some new ones with belt sander.Got my spacing for long travelled suspension at about 18mm ,the gap on the upper side of the transfer rod.When I sit on the sled front end stays put,and I get a 50/50 spacing now on the upper and lower gaps of the transfer rods.Set my limiters for now at about 10mm of thread exposed.This will allow the front of the skid to drop into any hole and the shock could work better to.May even loosen it up more,will see in time after riding a bit.Sure like the feel of long travel on the skid,feels so much softer and more play.Should help the back a bit.Like it on my SXR,which I do a lot of ditch banging and jumps with,and don't bottom out and landings are smooth,and my back is good by it.On the original SRX skid,I felt my lower back and spine take the brunt of the bumps and in rough terrain.Anything helps at this point.Basically just want a sled that will accelerate quickly and get to top speed fast in the open areas.Maybe next year I'll spend some extra $$$$ on it and get the porting done and or maybe put in a bigbore kit...780 perhaps.A little at a time,but I will get there as the cash comes in.When you are replacing old parts with new,the sled is always new then.I just love my SRX...that's all.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
antifreeze draining...a little messy!!!
Well I have been feeling lazy for the last little while.The temps out here are crazy hot.Today was a little cooler,so decided to wheel the SRX outside and drain the antifreeze.Tried to catch it all in a container...but no damn way.So it leaked down to bellypan and out below the sled.Don't have enough antifreeze to mix a batch,but will be going with 60/40 mix.That will be good to -52 F.Was going to get the HC's set up and clutch installed today,but I feel sleepy...so will take a nap instead.No big rush yet,but want to get it all done when it is warm out.It looks like we could be in store for a thunder shower yet today,could use some rain since it is so dry out. Later.
Well I have been feeling lazy for the last little while.The temps out here are crazy hot.Today was a little cooler,so decided to wheel the SRX outside and drain the antifreeze.Tried to catch it all in a container...but no damn way.So it leaked down to bellypan and out below the sled.Don't have enough antifreeze to mix a batch,but will be going with 60/40 mix.That will be good to -52 F.Was going to get the HC's set up and clutch installed today,but I feel sleepy...so will take a nap instead.No big rush yet,but want to get it all done when it is warm out.It looks like we could be in store for a thunder shower yet today,could use some rain since it is so dry out. Later.
yamaholic22
Active member
Be careful with going 60/40 on the antifreeze. SRX's have way better cooling than most yamaha's and you will probably never see the temp light, but higher concentrations of antifreeze dont cool as well as 50/50 does. May want to use a product such as Redline Water Wetter just to be safe.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
60/40 is the correct mix !!!!
I am only following what the SRX manual calls for and that is a 60/40 mix.And I do use Redline Water Wetter in my SXR when I changed the antifreeze last.Will also use the Water Wetter in the SRX also.
I am only following what the SRX manual calls for and that is a 60/40 mix.And I do use Redline Water Wetter in my SXR when I changed the antifreeze last.Will also use the Water Wetter in the SRX also.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
clutch work
Well last night I went and installed the HC's in the clutch.Ground a very small bit from the clutch sheave so that the heels will not touch when weights are fully engaged.Ground a couple of washers that go on the heel to make sure they will not touch rollers.Got the locktite on the bolts and installed the weights.Guess I can install the clutch now,I want to do a clutch alignment firstly and then I can install the carbs back on.Will pick up some antifreeze today also and mix a batch of 60/40 and put it in.
Well last night I went and installed the HC's in the clutch.Ground a very small bit from the clutch sheave so that the heels will not touch when weights are fully engaged.Ground a couple of washers that go on the heel to make sure they will not touch rollers.Got the locktite on the bolts and installed the weights.Guess I can install the clutch now,I want to do a clutch alignment firstly and then I can install the carbs back on.Will pick up some antifreeze today also and mix a batch of 60/40 and put it in.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well I got my primary clutch installed and next step is to align the clutches with the SLED PRO Alignment tool.Center to center is easy,just can't figure how to get the offset right.
The 3 posts on the tool are aall different length.Longer in front,shortest at the back.Loosened the motor mounts and tried shifting motor,but it will not go anymore back in order to get the 3 posts aligned with back of clutch sheave.I realize it needs to be offset this way because the motor will torque and twist to align the clutches under power.It is proving to not be an easy task doing the offset with the Sled Pro Tool.Any hints from someone would be great.
Well I got my primary clutch installed and next step is to align the clutches with the SLED PRO Alignment tool.Center to center is easy,just can't figure how to get the offset right.The 3 posts on the tool are aall different length.Longer in front,shortest at the back.Loosened the motor mounts and tried shifting motor,but it will not go anymore back in order to get the 3 posts aligned with back of clutch sheave.I realize it needs to be offset this way because the motor will torque and twist to align the clutches under power.It is proving to not be an easy task doing the offset with the Sled Pro Tool.Any hints from someone would be great.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Help!!!!!!!!!!!!
I also gather that when the clutches are off-set,they are not parallel to each other also.Only if the motor mounts are a solid type it would be parallel.Then when the enine is torquing out,it will twist the clutches into alignment.Never new this really and am learning something new again.I just want to get it right.I gather it is really never down right from the factory.Someone else on this site I read his comments on this and said he checked the offset on 4 different sleds and they were all out of wack.Never really hear people talking about offsets much and was wandering what kind of a real issue it is.Center to center is easily done with the tool. COMMENTS PLEASE!!!!
I also gather that when the clutches are off-set,they are not parallel to each other also.Only if the motor mounts are a solid type it would be parallel.Then when the enine is torquing out,it will twist the clutches into alignment.Never new this really and am learning something new again.I just want to get it right.I gather it is really never down right from the factory.Someone else on this site I read his comments on this and said he checked the offset on 4 different sleds and they were all out of wack.Never really hear people talking about offsets much and was wandering what kind of a real issue it is.Center to center is easily done with the tool. COMMENTS PLEASE!!!!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
By the way,it was 7 degrees when I got up,getting close to 0.The air is cold coming thru the window and freezing my feet along the floor here.Man I can feel it,riding is getting closer and closer.So I need to get the clutches aligned,put on the carbs and fire it up.Maybe do a grass run with it yet. 
shortstop20
New member
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2005
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- 38
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Offset is pretty important as a misaligned belt will create more heat and results in lost HP. You are right that the primary should be misaligned slightly as the motor will turn itself into alignment.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Well I am just gonna have to align that baby one way or another.Didn't realize it was going to be a chore.If the 3 standoffs have to be flush to the back of sheave,I'll have to get that motor to twist over more.A lot of
words are going to be used I guess.With rear post lining up,the other 2 are about 1/16" off,but motor won't twist anymore.Where the torque limiter is will be the piveting point.
words are going to be used I guess.With rear post lining up,the other 2 are about 1/16" off,but motor won't twist anymore.Where the torque limiter is will be the piveting point.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Today I took the Pro Tool and proceeded to align and offset the clutches.After about 5 attempts at her,tighten and loosening the bolts on motor mounts,finally got it right on the money.Once you do it the first time,next time is easier.Will do the same on the SXR.I am sure it is out of alignment also.
Well I guess the next step is to get the carbs back on.Still wanna check to see what the needles are at.Never done this before,guess it is another thing to learn to do and after the first time it will be an easy task.Read a few posts here already about the needles and how to get to them.Hope I can handle this one.LOL.
Well I guess the next step is to get the carbs back on.Still wanna check to see what the needles are at.Never done this before,guess it is another thing to learn to do and after the first time it will be an easy task.Read a few posts here already about the needles and how to get to them.Hope I can handle this one.LOL.
Exciterfan
Member
Doug,
Pick yourself up a set of Forceps from Princess Auto (or wherever). They comje in handy when your reachin in to pull up the needle out of the carbs. It's a bit of a tricky process and thr forceps really help because you can clamp them onto the needle carrier. BE CAREFULL to watch for the needle washers!!! They're really small and they stick to surfaces.
Have fun.
Len
Pick yourself up a set of Forceps from Princess Auto (or wherever). They comje in handy when your reachin in to pull up the needle out of the carbs. It's a bit of a tricky process and thr forceps really help because you can clamp them onto the needle carrier. BE CAREFULL to watch for the needle washers!!! They're really small and they stick to surfaces.
Have fun.
Len
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Yep I'll look int that Len.Should be no big deal,but you never know...thought that before on other things.LOL.
Last night I put the exhaust joints back on and continued with the triple pipes.Everything went on pretty easy,and no I didn't forget to run the pull start cord first to the handle.All I have to do is get them carbs on and the air box,connect throttle and choke and I'm done.Would like to fire her up and get that track aligned.Sure am tempted to take her out on the grass.
Last night I put the exhaust joints back on and continued with the triple pipes.Everything went on pretty easy,and no I didn't forget to run the pull start cord first to the handle.All I have to do is get them carbs on and the air box,connect throttle and choke and I'm done.Would like to fire her up and get that track aligned.Sure am tempted to take her out on the grass.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
almost there!!!!
Well today I put the carbs back on,installed air box and connected throttle,choke cables within specs for freeplay.Got the motor fired up and she sounds great.Set the idle at 1800 rpm's,slipped the belt on and ran her a bit to get the track turning.Track is new ,so it is stiff and needs breaking in.I noticed the tracking is turning very slowly,or jerking forward.So my center to center is ok.There is no belt squeal at all.When I start to rev her up,noticed with the heel clicker setup that it engages at about 4400 to 4500 rpm.
Bleeded the cooling system and topped it up.Everything is nice and warm thru out the heat exchangers.Got the itch to just punch it.
So I pulled the sled into the garage right to the back wall,pointing forward of course.Sat on the seat and punched it quick.She leaped like crazy man.Left a black burn out mark dead center of the garage floor to the overhead door.
Anyways track seems to be centered pretty good.Revved the track up a number of times while on the stand.Seems to be running true and centered.For now got my track tension set that with 22 lbs of pull I have
1 and 3/8" space between the hyfax and the track.What do you guys think about that,that is about 3/16" more then what the book says.With the changing of my rear wheels to 7.5" wheels,and adjusting the spacers between them to get my spacing right...it all looks good and running true also inside the coggs.Ther is no binding or rubbing on the sides.So I am happy with that.I probably could loosen the track a bit more,but it is new now and will stretch in time and I may have to tighten it up again.
All I need now is some snow to test it.Soon it will be here .
Well today I put the carbs back on,installed air box and connected throttle,choke cables within specs for freeplay.Got the motor fired up and she sounds great.Set the idle at 1800 rpm's,slipped the belt on and ran her a bit to get the track turning.Track is new ,so it is stiff and needs breaking in.I noticed the tracking is turning very slowly,or jerking forward.So my center to center is ok.There is no belt squeal at all.When I start to rev her up,noticed with the heel clicker setup that it engages at about 4400 to 4500 rpm.
Bleeded the cooling system and topped it up.Everything is nice and warm thru out the heat exchangers.Got the itch to just punch it.
So I pulled the sled into the garage right to the back wall,pointing forward of course.Sat on the seat and punched it quick.She leaped like crazy man.Left a black burn out mark dead center of the garage floor to the overhead door.
Anyways track seems to be centered pretty good.Revved the track up a number of times while on the stand.Seems to be running true and centered.For now got my track tension set that with 22 lbs of pull I have
1 and 3/8" space between the hyfax and the track.What do you guys think about that,that is about 3/16" more then what the book says.With the changing of my rear wheels to 7.5" wheels,and adjusting the spacers between them to get my spacing right...it all looks good and running true also inside the coggs.Ther is no binding or rubbing on the sides.So I am happy with that.I probably could loosen the track a bit more,but it is new now and will stretch in time and I may have to tighten it up again.
All I need now is some snow to test it.Soon it will be here .
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
another thing I will do is clean the power valves and adjust them.Noticed one good thing for sure and that is every part,bolt,washer,etc that was removed has all be re-installed.There are no things left over.LOL.
My auto mechanic told me last week he purchased a new 2008 Ski-doo MXZ800.I think I should not have a problem beating him in a race.Time will tell I guess.He came over and saw my SRX,said it was a beatiful looking sled.
My auto mechanic told me last week he purchased a new 2008 Ski-doo MXZ800.I think I should not have a problem beating him in a race.Time will tell I guess.He came over and saw my SRX,said it was a beatiful looking sled.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Took a look at the MXZ Renegade 800 that he bought.It has 151 HP and weighs in at 435 lbs dry I assume.It has a 1 " Ripsaw track also.Should be a close race..what you guys think?
shortstop20
New member
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- 38
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- Stickney, South Dakota
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Get him out on the lake where the SRX can stretch her legs. He would beat you in a short race I think. All depends on how good Doo has got those sleds running this year.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
don't know!!!!!
That is all Doo has got.They gave up on the 1000cc,to many breakdowns.We'll see if the new 800's will have the same issue's or not.He told me he was going to look at the Yamaha's 4-strokes,but his mind was made up with Doo's again.We'll see if the new sleds will stay together,since they have dropped the weight using lighter components.
That is all Doo has got.They gave up on the 1000cc,to many breakdowns.We'll see if the new 800's will have the same issue's or not.He told me he was going to look at the Yamaha's 4-strokes,but his mind was made up with Doo's again.We'll see if the new sleds will stay together,since they have dropped the weight using lighter components.