quad
New member
Trenches
From what I have read in other forums and experienced myself is that weight transfer is your biggest problem probably from your transfer rods when I modified mine it made a world of difference, mind you it is only a short track. But if you check into the aftermarket for mountain riders a kit is offered to eliminate the coupling action when transfered to the back. You may not want to totally eliminate it but at least modify it to get more tranfer to the back, but don't forget you might do more wheelies. Hope this helps and doesn't cause moe confusion
From what I have read in other forums and experienced myself is that weight transfer is your biggest problem probably from your transfer rods when I modified mine it made a world of difference, mind you it is only a short track. But if you check into the aftermarket for mountain riders a kit is offered to eliminate the coupling action when transfered to the back. You may not want to totally eliminate it but at least modify it to get more tranfer to the back, but don't forget you might do more wheelies. Hope this helps and doesn't cause moe confusion
Boondocker-1
New member
quad said:
Yeah if you remove transfer rods you will do some wheelies down the trail and when you climb your front end will be out of the snow. I love it. And NO tenching. Those transfer rods limit how far you can transfer and cause trenching. If you are gonna use them make sure you have them adjusted right. Let us know how its going...
gild
New member
transfer rod
Just out of curiosity have you measured your transfer rods and limiter straps to make sure they are for a Mnt Viper. Sounds like a transfer issue . Lots of ski pressure no tranfer causes excess spinning. On a flat surface lift the rear of the sled and see where the contact point is on the track , you don't want the rear to hit first. Try backing off on the throttle when you are trenching and see if the sled pops up in the snow. Just my 02 Cents you can be upshifting too fast and blowing the track out. Check your buddies gear ratio and helix also.
Just out of curiosity have you measured your transfer rods and limiter straps to make sure they are for a Mnt Viper. Sounds like a transfer issue . Lots of ski pressure no tranfer causes excess spinning. On a flat surface lift the rear of the sled and see where the contact point is on the track , you don't want the rear to hit first. Try backing off on the throttle when you are trenching and see if the sled pops up in the snow. Just my 02 Cents you can be upshifting too fast and blowing the track out. Check your buddies gear ratio and helix also.
Hi all of you!
Took my sled out for the first time this winter last weekend and "carried it around" in nature a day. Burned the drivebelt and trenched a lot!!!
When I looked at the skid, to my surprise the limiterstraps were all in (short). I said before they were all out (did'nt have the sled at home). Let them out about halfway before I driving but still trenching.
The transferrods on my sled is'nt adjustable. Can I try to take it all away just to see how the sled reacts?
Will take the sled in on monday and check things out. But what I think I'll do is the following:
Loose front suspension (skishocks).
Let limiterstraps all the way out.
Front skid susp. loose.
Rear skid susp. middle or loose
Transferrods all gone!
What do you think of that??? Will also get a new drivebelt and check that primary clutch shift all the way so it's not just the engine revs...
If nothing positive happens after that I'll
By the way, anyone of you guys know any dealer that ship parts "oversea" and accept paypal. Searched e**ay but did'nt find any interesting.
Took my sled out for the first time this winter last weekend and "carried it around" in nature a day. Burned the drivebelt and trenched a lot!!!
When I looked at the skid, to my surprise the limiterstraps were all in (short). I said before they were all out (did'nt have the sled at home). Let them out about halfway before I driving but still trenching.
The transferrods on my sled is'nt adjustable. Can I try to take it all away just to see how the sled reacts?
Will take the sled in on monday and check things out. But what I think I'll do is the following:
Loose front suspension (skishocks).
Let limiterstraps all the way out.
Front skid susp. loose.
Rear skid susp. middle or loose
Transferrods all gone!
What do you think of that??? Will also get a new drivebelt and check that primary clutch shift all the way so it's not just the engine revs...
If nothing positive happens after that I'll
By the way, anyone of you guys know any dealer that ship parts "oversea" and accept paypal. Searched e**ay but did'nt find any interesting.
OK, update what I've done...
I let the rear of the skid down to lower hole in chassie (the axle where upper part of tranfer rod is) to get more height. Loosen the ski shock to between half and hardest. Downloaded the proaction video but think I did'nt get any smarter...
The transferrods on my sled is'nt adjustable at all, think it's only the short Viper that have a nut in top to adjust. But read a lot here and found out that take them away completly was'nt good at all, causing skid to eventually break apart.
About "skilift", my sled does'nt lift at all. No difference beetween firm or soft snw. Think the longest they been in the air is about 4-5 feet and that's when driving up really sharp edges...
But found out I've clutching issues. Revs about 9000 rpm and primary does'nt shift the belt all the way out, about 20 mm left....
But even with this issue the sled should be running with little gas when not using the full speed....
Funny notice... Were out climbing with some friends, trenched in a small hill and when we got it going again my friend drove it down to flat ground where they turned before racing uphill. Then he even trenched on the flat and guess if there were happy words about Yamaha after that (mine was the only one). Even shorttrack climbed better than mine...
I let the rear of the skid down to lower hole in chassie (the axle where upper part of tranfer rod is) to get more height. Loosen the ski shock to between half and hardest. Downloaded the proaction video but think I did'nt get any smarter...
The transferrods on my sled is'nt adjustable at all, think it's only the short Viper that have a nut in top to adjust. But read a lot here and found out that take them away completly was'nt good at all, causing skid to eventually break apart.
About "skilift", my sled does'nt lift at all. No difference beetween firm or soft snw. Think the longest they been in the air is about 4-5 feet and that's when driving up really sharp edges...
But found out I've clutching issues. Revs about 9000 rpm and primary does'nt shift the belt all the way out, about 20 mm left....
But even with this issue the sled should be running with little gas when not using the full speed....
Funny notice... Were out climbing with some friends, trenched in a small hill and when we got it going again my friend drove it down to flat ground where they turned before racing uphill. Then he even trenched on the flat and guess if there were happy words about Yamaha after that (mine was the only one). Even shorttrack climbed better than mine...
Swedenboy,
If you drop the rear mount bolt to the bottom hole you also have to drop the front mount bolt to bottom hole. Hate to tell you this but the Mt. Viper has an inheritant trenching problem. A 151 will really help if you want to go that way, but I have cured mine pretty well staying with the 144. Check your pm for a reply to your question. May help. Have also found that changing to new clutch springs about every 1500-2000 miles will help keep things performing well.
If you drop the rear mount bolt to the bottom hole you also have to drop the front mount bolt to bottom hole. Hate to tell you this but the Mt. Viper has an inheritant trenching problem. A 151 will really help if you want to go that way, but I have cured mine pretty well staying with the 144. Check your pm for a reply to your question. May help. Have also found that changing to new clutch springs about every 1500-2000 miles will help keep things performing well.
Thanks alot snomoguy, have read the pm you sent. Yeah it really su*ks to not be able to follow my friends when they're climbing.... Have to stay on lower ground and wait for them to come back... 
The main thing is to get those tranferstraps, but only found them on Mtnperformance and can only call there to order, and that is a little hard for me to even know what time it's there and my languageskills is'nt that good. Would be easier with a webshop so if you know any please let me know...
The main thing is to get those tranferstraps, but only found them on Mtnperformance and can only call there to order, and that is a little hard for me to even know what time it's there and my languageskills is'nt that good. Would be easier with a webshop so if you know any please let me know...
..SNAKEBIT..
VIP Member
I found some post and made my own transfer kit (used a serpentine auto belt )
mine was on a 2002 short track converted to a 144x16x2
seems to work real well now, will find out for sure March 2 when we hit the Snowies
mine was on a 2002 short track converted to a 144x16x2
seems to work real well now, will find out for sure March 2 when we hit the Snowies
Swedenboy
Something else that really helps the 144 Viper is to port the track. It rids excess snow from being carried thru the too narrow opening in the front of the tunnel which also I believe is a part of the trenching problem.
Something else that really helps the 144 Viper is to port the track. It rids excess snow from being carried thru the too narrow opening in the front of the tunnel which also I believe is a part of the trenching problem.
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..SNAKEBIT..
VIP Member
Snomoguy, is that yours? what size did you port?
thinking of doing 2 inside wheels and porting track, but dont know what size hole and how many? do have the 16" wide track so I was thinking of doing 5 holes
what about where the rear axle wheels run?
thinking of doing 2 inside wheels and porting track, but dont know what size hole and how many? do have the 16" wide track so I was thinking of doing 5 holes
what about where the rear axle wheels run?
Yea that is mine. The holes are 1 and 1/8". It is up to you, but I felt that was all the ports I wanted to put in the track. A 16 wide maybe three across or maybe one in the center on every other lug. This seems to work great and you can even feel the ease that the track now runs. On mine the rear wheels run just outside the holes, between the holes and the clipped ports. You have to make a template to get the holes just right. I too have been thinking of going to just 2 inside wheels, mainly for side hill ease. No this is just a 15 wide track. Comtemplated doing this all last year, fianlly bit the bullet and love it.
..SNAKEBIT..
VIP Member
OK I got to do it for my March West trip, ported track and 2 wheels
that it my mind is made up! LOL
that it my mind is made up! LOL
Snomoguy you must be an angel!!! Got excellent pics and did'nt even ask for it!!! Where do I find those straps(must ship worldwide) and where are they attached to skid? Tried to found straps on sites and e-bay but no luck...
Also looking for new pipes to get the track moving a little more... Thought that instead of spending money on another ride I rather keep my Yammie and spend a little on updates...
Thanks again!!!
Also looking for new pipes to get the track moving a little more... Thought that instead of spending money on another ride I rather keep my Yammie and spend a little on updates...
Thanks again!!!
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Swedenboy
Sorry I hit the wrong button.
Anyway MPI is the only place I know that makes them. However they are easy to build. Find some straping or belting (conveyor belt) or I suppose you could even use leather. They are 1 and 1/4 inch wide and 15" long. Drill 3 or 4 holes in the ends about 1" inch apart. The only thing you will really need is a spacer for the top wheel where the transfer rod mounts now. Some guys just cut the rod and leave the end of it in buy the wheel for a spacer. Another trich I have seen guys do is remove the transfer rods and weld a bar on the top of the rails up next to the H arm so it will not bend forward. Then you need to straps. Any way here are some pics of how the straps mount and where, and the spacer you need.
Sorry I hit the wrong button.
Anyway MPI is the only place I know that makes them. However they are easy to build. Find some straping or belting (conveyor belt) or I suppose you could even use leather. They are 1 and 1/4 inch wide and 15" long. Drill 3 or 4 holes in the ends about 1" inch apart. The only thing you will really need is a spacer for the top wheel where the transfer rod mounts now. Some guys just cut the rod and leave the end of it in buy the wheel for a spacer. Another trich I have seen guys do is remove the transfer rods and weld a bar on the top of the rails up next to the H arm so it will not bend forward. Then you need to straps. Any way here are some pics of how the straps mount and where, and the spacer you need.
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Here is a little wider angle so you can see a little clearer. Also if you are running your track lose you can add the little wheel kit to the front. It will hold enough tension on the track as come over the drivers, you won't have trouble with ratcheting. I run about 1 and 1/2" slack in my track and have never ratcheted. Now if I was going to a longer track I would go with anti-ratchet drivers since all that would be apart anyway, but this is a quick and easy fix to ratcheting.
Do you know Borg Petterson with Snofed?
Do you know Borg Petterson with Snofed?
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Man, I think you're my best friend now! You reply so fast I hardly have time to write replies!!! If you ever travel to north of Sweden I will buy a lot of beer and then we'll have a BIG party!
With MPI you meen MountainPerformance, right? If that is, I think it feels like their webpage is not often updated and hard to contact except phone...
Great pictures, think I can manage to do some myself now. We have a lot of used conveyorbelt and small pieces of pipe that's left after repair on my job, to do the upper part to axle.
Maybe I only try to find those small wheels and order some...
BIG THANKS AGAIN and I think I eventually start to like my Yammie after all. Looking forward to do som mods later this week!!!!
With MPI you meen MountainPerformance, right? If that is, I think it feels like their webpage is not often updated and hard to contact except phone...
Great pictures, think I can manage to do some myself now. We have a lot of used conveyorbelt and small pieces of pipe that's left after repair on my job, to do the upper part to axle.
Maybe I only try to find those small wheels and order some...
BIG THANKS AGAIN and I think I eventually start to like my Yammie after all. Looking forward to do som mods later this week!!!!
How I would love to come to Sweden, but from Wyoming to Sweden, I dought that will ever happen. Thanks for the invite and beer though. Good luck with your sled. Just remember though, what makes one sled good may not always work on another sled. This is what I did and I LIKE IT. Good luck 
Been out riding today and the snow was firm today... The sled was better than before. Raised the limiterstraps so it just touched the track when "free in air". Still dig ditches little to much but when I release power it climbs up on snow, has'nt done that before. Haven't done the controlstraps yet but on the way!
Put a Carlisle drivebelt on before today and now it revs 8500 on firm trail but still about 1/2" left on primary to use. Great difference with the "aftermarket" belt, no slip at all and felt like 5 hp extra than stock...
Maybe I will have a happy spring after all...
Put a Carlisle drivebelt on before today and now it revs 8500 on firm trail but still about 1/2" left on primary to use. Great difference with the "aftermarket" belt, no slip at all and felt like 5 hp extra than stock...
Maybe I will have a happy spring after all...
This is one of the best threads I've seen on setting up the Mnt Viper for powder!