SC10 2 into SRX

There is some confushion in years measurement.I posted for a 2002 mxz skid.If your buying a skid get the axle to axle measurement from that sled from doo talk or from a sled and we can go from there.
 
Ok, I have the doner sled in my yard. I did some measuring tonight and here is what I came up with.

From Center of the drive shaft to the center os the front mount. 10.00 In.
From the Top of the tunnel to the center of the front mount. 4.5 In.
From the center of the front mount to the center of the rear mount 24.00 In.
From the top of the tunnel to the center of the rear mount. 6.25 In.

All the center to center measurements are direct from bolt to bolt.

Does any of this sound close to what others are coming up with?
 
That looks like the one i installed.

The way to check were to install it is
#1 Set the proaction up on the floor to bolt hole measurements from its sled.
Use visegrips on transfer rods [to hold up]and a piece of wood to hold up the middle axle.Track adjusters backed right off.

#2 Back the adjusters off of the new skid.And ratchet strap it down like you have to the old sled measurments.

#3 Roll both skids side by side and line up rear axle wheels.[Collapsed]... measure the differance of the two top rear axles.

#4 Now you have the back measurement for adjusting the track after you put it back in.

Anotherwords this will take advantage of the full track adjustability If you were going to put a new track in at some time this will be right.Or a old track will have lots of adjustment.

You will want to use the old rear yamaha outside tunnel washers and they will go 2 3/8 inches back from the old hole.Or set one washer behind the other one for location.These will have to drilled out for the larger bolts that are needed.

#5 Have the very front yamy brackets removed from your sled.
This will take a drill for the rivots and a grinder for the ones in backwords to remove.

#6 Measure from the new rear holes to 24 inches[if that is what you have]on the inside of the tunnel and mark.

#7 Place the brackets on top of the lip for the tunnel coolers over centre of your mark than rivot and drill.This should be around 4 5/8 down from the top of the outside of the tunnel.

I had to pull the limiters up one hole because my sled is not as high as the doner sled was.

I really hope this helps i cant explain it any better and have never done the type that mrsled has done so it is best to talk to him about that style.
I did this on my srx and flipped front brackets for the ohins but have seen it left stock.

len
 
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bluewho said:
That looks like the one i installed.
Click to expand...

In an earlier post you mention using the front brackets to locate the front mounting hole. Just to be sure you meant the stock front mount brackets correct? Not the stock center mount brackets right? Just want to be clear. I have a ton of holes in this tunnel from all the different skid and track configurations I have had in it and don't want to add any more that I need to. Thanks
 
bluewho said:
That looks like the one i installed.

The way to check were to install it is
#1 Set the proaction up on the floor to bolt hole measurements from its sled.
Use visegrips on transfer rods [to hold up]and a piece of wood to hold up the middle axle.Track adjusters backed right off.

#2 Back the adjusters off of the new skid.And ratchet strap it down like you have to the old sled measurments.

#3 Roll both skids side by side and line up rear axle wheels.[Collapsed]... measure the differance of the two top rear axles.

#4 Now you have the back measurement for adjusting the track after you put it back in.

Anotherwords this will take advantage of the full track adjustability If you were going to put a new track in at some time this will be right.Or a old track will have lots of adjustment.

You will want to use the old rear yamaha outside tunnel washers and they will go 2 3/8 inches back from the old hole.Or set one washer behind the other one for location.These will have to drilled out for the larger bolts that are needed.

#5 Have the very front yamy brackets removed from your sled.
This will take a drill for the rivots and a grinder for the ones in backwords to remove.

#6 Measure from the new rear holes to 24 inches[if that is what you have]on the inside of the tunnel and mark.

#7 Place the brackets on top of the lip for the tunnel coolers over centre of your mark than rivot and drill.This should be around 4 5/8 down from the top of the outside of the tunnel.

I had to pull the limiters up one hole because my sled is not as high as the doner sled was.

I really hope this helps i cant explain it any better and have never done the type that mrsled has done so it is best to talk to him about that style.
I did this on my srx and flipped front brackets for the ohins but have seen it left stock.

len
Click to expand...

Makes perfect sence to me. Thanks for the info.
 
You could also cut the installation time down by haveing some front brackets ready to install from a parted out sled tunnel.Than you could put the proaction back in if there ever was a need to do so.The rear hole is not a problem as it will catch the bracket on the inside of the tunnel.

Maddog Let me know how you make out.

Tks len
 
here's what I'm looking at now. It's from a 04 rev with 1,100 miles on it. I have someone looking at my m-10 so it that sells I'm going with the doo skid b/c I love the way my wives rev handles the whoops. So I will be looking for help on this and I hope I'll have no more skid issues. ;)!
 

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Maddogs spec's are the closest to what i took from a 01' mx-z 700. All my measurements were from center lines transfered to upper inside of tunnel.
 

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The only measurement needed is 24.75"

The skid has to remain that distance to work properly.

Cog shaft locations on a doo and a srx are differant.Thats why checking rear axle adjustment tells you were to put it.
 
Ya, I got it in. Went fine. Still needs some adjusting. Have not had much time to do any thing with it.
 
bluewho said:
The only measurement needed is 24.75"

The skid has to remain that distance to work properly.

Cog shaft locations on a doo and a srx are differant.Thats why checking rear axle adjustment tells you were to put it.
Click to expand...

I agree that they are in different locations, however the track is still the same length. Measuring center lines from the cog shaft back will net you the same results. I marked mine out using both methods and the same results(within a .25"). Which the track adjusters will make up for.
 
No one has never asked this, if all these doo owners are selling their old skids to yammie owners, then what are doo owners using? If we always upgrade, then why dont we just upgrade to the better step so we can stay ahead of the doo's?

I have to much time on my hands.
 
I hear ya i often wondered what happens to all the old sleds.Yamaha builds the best moters so there is a need for a better suspenshion doo on the other hand is the complete oppisite.

I have been rideing my 98s every year now so thats 11 seasons.The wifeys srx has 20 thousand klm without the moter even being touched.(needs rings now)lol

I have over 30 thousand klm on mine rebuilt 2 years ago and will still ride it untill yamy makes the sled i want to replace it.

So going to another brand skid was a no brainer for me.Steel bushings/not plastic/lighter/rides better/and handles the corners almost as well as the old one
 
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Hey Blue, I installed a sc10III into my srx this summer according to your specs, looking forward to trying it out... I also just purchased a 2009 sc10V I think its a 5 out of a mxz renagade 1200 137" for my 2003 venture.. I have to take some more measurements, but wondered if you had any mounting ideas for it. The back upper shaft with the wheels is an 1 1/4" longer than the yame. The yamahas mounted on the inside of tunnel as the doo is mounted underneath running boards. I do have the doo brackets but dont think I have to mount it that low.. Any thoughts?
 
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