My Problem Machine - SRX

delemi

delemi

New member
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
Messages
33
Age
45
Location
Saginaw, MI
I bought this sled 2 1/2 years ago.
2001 SRX 700

When I bought this sled it ran (well enough for me to buy it) until it became warm and then it would start missing on the right and center cylinders (facing the front of the sled). I did a compression test and it had little compression. So i tore the top end down and sent the jugs to a machine shop where they discovered both cylinders had a tapper in them. The machine shop was unable to bore them out because of the nikasil plating. So I sent the Wisco rebuild kit and the jugs off to US chrome to be bored and re-plated, a few weeks later everything came back matched and looking like a million dollars.

Do to work I sent the sled and parts down to White Bear lakes Tousley Yamaha and had the top end reassembled. The season was about over but I did manage to zip up and down the alley behind my house a few dozen times.

So the sled sat and was serviced for the off season and was taken to Michigan for storage. I went to use it last year and it wouldn't start. I had no spark! After doing some research I determined it to be the stator and sent it to RM Stator where they replaced the magnetic pickup and told me it tested out at specs.

Today I put the Stator and pick up on. And while I was in there I rewound the recoil spring so it would suck my rope in all the way (brave I know). 30 minutes later I have a smooth pulling recoil and a bit of piece of mind. I pull it over a few times and no start. Made sure the key was on, safety switch was up and tried again. Same result.
Checked for spark, no spark.
Disabled the carb safety switch.
Checked for spark, no spark.
I sprayed starting fluid in the carbs and noticed the right cylinder fires I ever 5th or 6th pull but nothing else.
I notice my headlight is not trying to light up during pulls.

I plan to check the stator in the morning.
Then the DC regulator and condenser

I need peoples ideas and help to solve this. I have stuck so much money into this and never had the opportunity to take this machine out on the trails.

Any and all help will be appreciated.

:2strokes:
 

Ouch. Sorry to hear about the issues your having. Just a wild one here but have you noticed any mouse poop around the machine at all? Maybe they chewed a wire after being in storage. Try replacing the spark plug boots, make sure you have a good ground, not corroded. Thats my thoughts, but not all the solutions to an electrical problem.
 
replace the plugs and check fuel unless there was none in it when it was stored, also all connections to cdi and wireing harness for rub through, the sled is a pain to start fresh from storage because it takes a while for the fuel to get to carbs and if fogged could have fouled plugs try replacing plugs and put a little mixture down the holes before you put them in and make sure if you have a fuel valve its on and fresh fuel
 
It is getting fuel. The plugs are bran new out of the box never been used. The wires look good, no corrosion in the cap and boots. The issue seems to be totally electrical. I have been checking wiring and don't see anything. I am going to get my fluke meter out and test everything according to the manual.
 
No spark but it seems to fire on one cyl. occationally when squirting starting fluid? Hmm, sounds conflicting.

As no1chevy said, first start of the season can be a bear filling the float bowls and I'd recommend some pre-mix instead of ether (those Wisecos will appreciate it).

Not much else to add other than I'm pretty sure the headlight will not light during cranking, only after the engine lights.

...and the rub through harness issue. I pulled mine last year to check and found no issues but others have and it can cause intermittents. Do a search for other comments about how and where to check. Good luck.
 
So I am out here checking things this morning and found what may be the issue. The shut off switch on the handle bars is not testing out. Here are the factory specs and my test results. Does anyone know how to "jump" the Run/Off switch on the handle bars? This would be to make sure it is the problem. If it is an issue for sure I will buy another one.

Spark Plug Cap resistance 5k Ohm - In range

Primary Coil resistance 0.38 ~ .0.46 - In range
Secondary Coil resistance 5.8 ~ 7.0 - In range

AC Magneto
Pickup Coil
White /Red 189~231 - 193.9 In Range

Charge Coil
White/White
0.36~0.44 - .40 and .37 In range

Spark Plug Gap .028~.031 - BR9ECS .030

Handlebar Switch
Run = Continuity Run = No Continuity - Problem?
Off=No Continuity Off = Continuity - Problem?

Throttle Positioning - Correct
Throttle = Yes
Idle = No

Carb Switch - Correct
Throttle = No
Idle = Yes
 
Unplug the triangle shaped connector under the bar pad and then bypass the TORS system at the carbs. Make sure and actually loop them TORS wires back to each other as jus unplugging them won't work.
 
So I looped the TORS wires together and unplugged the Run/Off Switch and still have no spark. The AC magneto/Stator is making power. I unplugged the coil and stuck my fluke meter on it and it overloads (inconstant reading, high low - high low) the meter when I roll it over. I can manually configure my meter to get a high range reading but I don't think that will tell me anything important.

Where would you guys go from here? I am all ears and open minded.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed so far.
 
No tether switch. This is a stock sled for the most part. I extended the track to a 144", replaced the stator and had the top end bored and re-plated.
 
Maybe this is dumb question but can the key/ignition be bad? Will one off a SX500 fit? I do have a spare.
 
delemi said:
Handlebar Switch
Run = Continuity Run = No Continuity - Problem?
Off=No Continuity Off = Continuity - Problem?
Click to expand...

this is confusing...




NORMAL OPERATION

the kill switch on the handlebars merely places a ground from the chassis through the switch when "closed" (continuity) to the B/W wire of the CDI to KILL the engine...

when the switch is "open" (no continuity), this isolates the ground away from the B/W wire of CDI, so the engine can run...

once again:

kill switch pushed in = "closed" = continuity = kills engine
kill switch not pushed in = "open" = no continuity = allows engine to run


The ignition switch merely parallells this same cct to place a ground on the B/W wire of the CDI to kill the engine...


confused now? I am... tj
 
TJ,

To clear up the confusion going by the manual I should have continuity with the Run/Off switch in the Run (up) position but I do not. And when the switch is down I am getting continuity and should not be. I tried to bi-pass this switch per the suggestion of another member and I still have no spark when I try to start the sled. Being the Run/Off switch is bi-passed (it needs to be replaced) and I have no spark it tells me I have another issue. The only things I have left to test is the ignition switch, the rectifier and the condenser.

I am willing to do what ever it necessary to get this sled going. I am not familiar with this sled enough to deal with the electrical so I am asking for help in diagnosing this issue. If this does not get resolved I am to the point of scrapping the sled. I have too much money tied into it for it to be giving me these problems. I have 6 other sleds and I have never had these kinds of issues with one single sled.

Handlebar Switch
Spec. per Manual
Run = Continuity
Off=No Continuity

What I found during testing
Run Position - No Continuity - Problem?
Off position - Continuity - Problem?
 
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When it comes to the killswitch, Like tj said when the kill is in the down or no run position you will have continuity,because the kill switch is grounding out the stator to kill engine. Killswitch up is no continuity,not grounding out the stator, allowing the engine to fire. Hope you understand that. Now when i am having elecrical problems i try to isolate the engine by unhooking anything that is not needed to run the engine,Meaning the key switch,Unhook it, kill switch unhook it. Thats what i would try if it was me. Good Luck
 
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Thanks for all advise so far and I will try that in the morning when it is not raining. Any other places to start or advise is appreciated.
 
if you check all plug wires with fluke do you get reading when you turn motor over? if you do then you should have spark, do you have a spark tester? if not do you have a nyeve wive or girlfriend have them hold the plug and pull it over, if there hair curls you got spark(they my also jump and swear) then its good, is the fuel from storage even alittle or all fresh?
 
I drained all fuel and filled it half way with premix from my motorcycle can that was maybe 2 days old. AMSOIL 2 stoke oil mixed with gas. I have a spark plug tester I use at work from my fathers automotive shop that also used on this to determine I had no spark. I pulled two plugs and tested for spark and had none, didn't test the 3rd. I did not use the fluke while turning the engine over while connected to the plug wire and ground. I will try that it in the morning just to be certain.
 
Check the wiring harness that runs from the stator, under the motor to the front of the sled to the headlights. Lots of issues with the harnesses rubbing through and shorting out causing all kinds of "weirdness". I re-routed mine up and over the recoil.

Don't give up!! You have great sled there!!

Exciterfan
 
just wanted to get that out of the way, i think the ignition system on yours is pretty basic stator charges cdi (pick up,trigger) tells cdi when to fire, if you have manual you would check out put from stator not just resistance,then out put from pick up that eliminates those two, if ok, then with all known kills disconnected and no out put from cdi would lead to cdi unless tach wire is shorted, i believe, i dont have a scamatic of your ign system hope this helps
 
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