email me and I will email you the viper service manual bkrpaul@aol.com
Burned down my center piston/cyl =( oilpump?
- Thread starter kimoaj
- Start date
Before you pick up an SRX cooler make sure it will fit on the "Mountain Viper".
I know they fit on the regular 121" Vipers, but the tunnel extension is much thinner at the back and it may not accomodate the very large SRX cooler.
I would like to know if they are interchangeable as well, on the mountain sleds.
I know they fit on the regular 121" Vipers, but the tunnel extension is much thinner at the back and it may not accomodate the very large SRX cooler.
I would like to know if they are interchangeable as well, on the mountain sleds.
I have a cyberdyne. You can get them in Celcius like mine. It is a triple digit one and mine has memory too (while the sled is on).
Note that you will also need a temp sensor, some wiring and a hose adapter. Make sure the hose adapter is slightly oversized, so the sensor body won't restrict the coolat flow. I found the SLP hose adapter too small, the temp sensor seemed to restrict the coolant too much.
Note that you will also need a temp sensor, some wiring and a hose adapter. Make sure the hose adapter is slightly oversized, so the sensor body won't restrict the coolat flow. I found the SLP hose adapter too small, the temp sensor seemed to restrict the coolant too much.
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02ViperMtn
Member
if the tunnel is stock it should fit. Mine has an aftermarket extension and I beleive there is not enough depth at the back of my tunnel to get an SRX cooler to fit. I would like to though because the small one i have still doesn't keep up on the bad trails.
02ViperMtn
Member
i wouldn't be afraid of drilling out for the SRX spigots. I have the mm exchanger and scratchers and its not enough in some cases.
Hi guys!
Thanks for the replies!
So a MM style rear heat exchanger will fit my Viper mtn best?
Or can I infact use one from an SRX?
What is spigots? "Whack and auger holes in it" ? Do I have to make some new holes for the pipes on the sides?
I really want to get rid of the cooling problem.. very annoying problem.
Thanks for the replies!
So a MM style rear heat exchanger will fit my Viper mtn best?
Or can I infact use one from an SRX?
What is spigots? "Whack and auger holes in it" ? Do I have to make some new holes for the pipes on the sides?
I really want to get rid of the cooling problem.. very annoying problem.
YAMAHIZAL700
New member
The first thing to do is once you get it up and running is get the rear way up in the air and use that bleeder screw. From what I read this never had been bled properly and you may not have to add the rear exchanger.
kimoaj said:Hi guys!
Thanks for the replies!
So a MM style rear heat exchanger will fit my Viper mtn best?
Or can I infact use one from an SRX?
What is spigots? "Whack and auger holes in it" ? Do I have to make some new holes for the pipes on the sides?
I really want to get rid of the cooling problem.. very annoying problem.
IMO:
I would be suprised if the MM rear heat exchanger was much bigger if any then theMountain Vipers.
I extended my SRX to 144" with a Mountain Max extension, to match my SRXs cooling hose size, I installed a Mountain Viper rear exchanger. I trail ride this sled aggressively and have not had any cooling issues. I too think if the cooling system is working + bled properly, with ice scratchers you should be good to go!
JM.02c
02ViperMtn
Member
I just received an awesome write up from a member to my email the other day. Here it is:
From 02ViperMody44 at TY Forums
"Just an FYI, I made my '02 Viper a 136" from Hartman. I bought the rear cooler that he recommended,(mounts directly to the top of the tunnel extension, and requires adaptors to downsize the hoses from the running boards) but it is WAY inadequate for the trails. Plus mine has SLP Pipes on it. I would frequently run at 180 degree Farhenheit on up. I just put on a SRX one, that one that mounts to the top, and then curves down to the back. I went on a quick 10 mile ride w/ it on very marginal snow covered fields(mostly just dirt dusted w/ snow at this point) in central NY, and I didn't go above 150 degrees. It did take a bit of dremeling out the openings for the tubes to pass thru the extension, but after getting it to fit, I just rivited in some aluminum to stiffen everything back up where the bumper mounts. I was using the Ski-doo bumper that mounted on the outside of the tunnel, but now I am back to using the Orig. Viper bumper, after drilling two holes into the back of the tunnel extension. Just an FYI"
From 02ViperMody44 at TY Forums
"Just an FYI, I made my '02 Viper a 136" from Hartman. I bought the rear cooler that he recommended,(mounts directly to the top of the tunnel extension, and requires adaptors to downsize the hoses from the running boards) but it is WAY inadequate for the trails. Plus mine has SLP Pipes on it. I would frequently run at 180 degree Farhenheit on up. I just put on a SRX one, that one that mounts to the top, and then curves down to the back. I went on a quick 10 mile ride w/ it on very marginal snow covered fields(mostly just dirt dusted w/ snow at this point) in central NY, and I didn't go above 150 degrees. It did take a bit of dremeling out the openings for the tubes to pass thru the extension, but after getting it to fit, I just rivited in some aluminum to stiffen everything back up where the bumper mounts. I was using the Ski-doo bumper that mounted on the outside of the tunnel, but now I am back to using the Orig. Viper bumper, after drilling two holes into the back of the tunnel extension. Just an FYI"
02ViperMtn
Member
More info on it from 02ViperMody44 at TY Forums:
"The Hartman extension, was predrilled for the Mountain Max rear cooler, which has off-set hose lines, so you were able to cant it to one side, and then slide it in and over. Those tubes on that cooler are like a 5/8" or 3/4" down spouts, contrary to the 1" coming off of the running board coolers. The SRX is the same size, of one inch, so I just picked up some 1" heater hose at my local Autozone and ran tham direct from the running board coolers. I kept the factory 90degree bend hose that came w/ the Viper, and just picked up two 1" connectors to connect to them. As far as mounting the cooler, I "hogged" out the Hartman's extension pre-drilled rear cooler holes pretty good, to be able to slide the cooler in. Those spouts are not off set, w/ one are longer than the other, so you had to open the holes up, both in diameter and a length wise slit. As the SRX cooler has mounting points to both the top and to the back, I utilized the left over factory back bracket that was originally rivited to the back of the stock Viper, to rivet the cooler to. This bracket mounts to the top of the extension, and additonally has mounting points that would have gone to the sides of the tunnel on a factory 121" Viper. I just made some aluminum arms, from some aluminum plate I bought at Lowes, and riveted those side mounting points, at an agle up to the inside part of the tunnel extension just to reinforce the whole cooler. The cooler does get riveted on w/ apprx. 15 rivets, and as of such it was pretty sturdy to begin w/, but I figured what the hell. With the bracket mounted in this location, it is actually a couple of inches inward from where the snow-flap mounts."
"The Hartman extension, was predrilled for the Mountain Max rear cooler, which has off-set hose lines, so you were able to cant it to one side, and then slide it in and over. Those tubes on that cooler are like a 5/8" or 3/4" down spouts, contrary to the 1" coming off of the running board coolers. The SRX is the same size, of one inch, so I just picked up some 1" heater hose at my local Autozone and ran tham direct from the running board coolers. I kept the factory 90degree bend hose that came w/ the Viper, and just picked up two 1" connectors to connect to them. As far as mounting the cooler, I "hogged" out the Hartman's extension pre-drilled rear cooler holes pretty good, to be able to slide the cooler in. Those spouts are not off set, w/ one are longer than the other, so you had to open the holes up, both in diameter and a length wise slit. As the SRX cooler has mounting points to both the top and to the back, I utilized the left over factory back bracket that was originally rivited to the back of the stock Viper, to rivet the cooler to. This bracket mounts to the top of the extension, and additonally has mounting points that would have gone to the sides of the tunnel on a factory 121" Viper. I just made some aluminum arms, from some aluminum plate I bought at Lowes, and riveted those side mounting points, at an agle up to the inside part of the tunnel extension just to reinforce the whole cooler. The cooler does get riveted on w/ apprx. 15 rivets, and as of such it was pretty sturdy to begin w/, but I figured what the hell. With the bracket mounted in this location, it is actually a couple of inches inward from where the snow-flap mounts."
02ViperMtn
Member
I have requested some pics from 02ViperMody44. I am in the process of retrofitting mine with an SRX cooler and getting rid of the mmax cooler.
Last year I made my '02 Viper a 136" w/ Hartman extensions. I have SLP pipes, Peak Performance head, Opticool gasket, and plenty of studs. I have carbs set for roughly 1200' of elevation. With the "recommended" Mountain Max rear heat exchanger, running on trails in Central NY, I would overheat as soon as any fresh snow got hard or matted down. I was alway running at the 170-175 degrees on up range bouncing off of 195 before I would have to put snow on the side exchangers. I don't know if it is because of the new height that the tunnel puts the Mountain Max cooler so far away from the track, or the small volume of the exchanger, but on trail riding it was completely inept. I just intalled an SRX rear cooler on my sled a few days ago, and took it for a quick 10 mile ride, and right now in central NY, there is just a dusting of snow on the ground. My temperature did not go above 150 degrees, which I thought was pretty remarkable. Now it takes a lot longer of a time for it to reach 126 degrees when idling(thermostat opening) and I rode three miles before it went above 135 degrees. The SRX appears to be at least 2.5 times the volume of the MMax cooler, and it is curved from the top down to catch more of the track spray. Yes I did have to hog out the holes on the Hartman extension to make it fit, but what a difference in the temperature it runs at. I would definately recommend this on a trail ridden sled.
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02ViperMtn
Member
I ride in the mountains and deep snow out west. The problem out west is we hit some icy roads or gravel roads late in the season. With the long track the motor heats up real fast with the mmax cooler. Why would Vipers with the mmax cooler overheat so quickly when the mmax doesn't (as far as I know).
02ViperMtn said:
Is there a difference in the compression ratios of the motors making the Viper motor run hotter? I blame mine on the Triple Pipes.
Hi guys!
Great info on the rear cooler , thanks alot! Great pictures
I will try to add ice scratchers and see what happens.
As mentioned in yamahizal700`s post, I maybe didnt get the air out of the cooling system.
I feel like a total idiot, I shouldnt have "believed" that I got the air out when I basically hadnt loosened any air screws.
I put coolant in the system, used my hand to pump on all the hoses and I could see that there came air bubbles up in the expansion tank. I started the sled and continued doing so. I also had the front of the sled on a stand to it was higher then the rear, so I thought that it would be good enough to air it this way.
I also used my hand to feel that the coolers got warm and they did.
Are there any more tips on how to bleed air out of the cooling system?
Just raise the rear of the sled and open the bleed nipple?
Since there is a thermostat, should I let the sled idle for a while until it gets so warm that the thermostat opens, and then bleed it?
I got all my parts today and started cleaning the cases/cyls etc.
I also had to port my new cylinder to match the two other ones.
Then when I was suppost to clean the crankshaft I found a BAD bearing that I somehow have managed to overlook when I inspected the crank the first time.
So I need a new crank too!! Gees.... . This really really sucks.
Great info on the rear cooler , thanks alot! Great pictures
I will try to add ice scratchers and see what happens.
As mentioned in yamahizal700`s post, I maybe didnt get the air out of the cooling system.
I feel like a total idiot, I shouldnt have "believed" that I got the air out when I basically hadnt loosened any air screws.
I put coolant in the system, used my hand to pump on all the hoses and I could see that there came air bubbles up in the expansion tank. I started the sled and continued doing so. I also had the front of the sled on a stand to it was higher then the rear, so I thought that it would be good enough to air it this way.
I also used my hand to feel that the coolers got warm and they did.
Are there any more tips on how to bleed air out of the cooling system?
Just raise the rear of the sled and open the bleed nipple?
Since there is a thermostat, should I let the sled idle for a while until it gets so warm that the thermostat opens, and then bleed it?
I got all my parts today and started cleaning the cases/cyls etc.
I also had to port my new cylinder to match the two other ones.
Then when I was suppost to clean the crankshaft I found a BAD bearing that I somehow have managed to overlook when I inspected the crank the first time.
So I need a new crank too!! Gees.... . This really really sucks.