srx top end fat


coop99srx said:
my younger brother has a nytro and he kills me in a drag race by at least 2 sled lenghts
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CAUSE YOUR SLED NEEDS SOME TLC!! why are you ignoring peoples questions? i asked you, "what max rpms is your sled turning now"? need to know that, as that is important info. you come on here wanting help, but you won't listen to us on here that know a thing or too. i just don't understand some people.

any 700 srx, shouldn't have any trouble spanking a nytro. they are 120hp (earlier models) and 130hp (newer models). a stock srx is approx 140hp, w/lot longer legs too.
 
Those Nytro's are bullets up to 85-90. I would lose two sled lengths right out of the hole to my buddies '09. I would reel him in a little after 90 but he usually would shut it down right around there. That was also when I had my M-10. It would be a little closer with the stock skid I have in now.
I think if you concentrate your efforts on what you've got now and get your clutching and gearing spot on you will be very happy with your top end speed.

P.s. lose the can!
 
coop99srx said:
any good suggestions on having the local engine shop make my 700 a 800
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If you are having trouble getting your stock SRX up + running strong, you definately don't want to get into the world of Big Bore jetting, clutching, cooling, fuel issues!!!!
Your sled is 11 - 12 model years old. If you want it to perform like a new SRX is capable of, you have to get it in like new condition and also base line your set up[clutching, jetting ect] back to its stock specifications.
There are virtually no pipes available and definately no silencers available that will outperform Yamaha's stock system. The only reason to add a silencer to an SRX is sound and some weight loss. Everyone everywhere is beginning to frown apon loud sleds so sound has to be evaluated for your given riding area.

IMO:
There is no easy fix for your performance woes, you are going to have to refresh the whole sled.
If you want a sled you can just hop on, pull the trigger and run with anything out there...like Blue said "Get an Apex" then the fuel injection, and 150hp will fill your needs!

JM.02c
 
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right there sideshow..but it hurts putting out so much $$$ for an Apex up front.Depends on your area and if you get enough snowfall to warrant the Apex .If you put on less then 1000 miles a season,jut stick with the SRX.If you go on alot of lang hauls and trailer around to different area and just basically ride to no end..the Apex will be of some use to you then..Just pull the trigger and ride..won't have to worry about wrenching basically.Me I like to wrench on the older sleds and try to get a couple more HP and mph out of them...lol
 
blue, you don't pull the trigger and ride your srx? now that clutching is where i want it, i don't really think I am going to be messing with mine anymore until something beats me... why change something and beat yourself when its running good? i highly advise getting stock primary in there with 4.5 each hole, red secondary wrapped at 90, and most definitely a 52/46 helix. bet it will pull that 105mph in 38* temps like mine did. I am amped for next year already so I can try out what sort of speed I can get when its in the teens! i'm guessing 110-112 gps on a groomed railroad grade...

as for me, i gas oil and pull the rope. f those apex's and nytros, slower than my srx, and doesnt handle like it either
 
mopar1rules said:
CAUSE YOUR SLED NEEDS SOME TLC!! why are you ignoring peoples questions? i asked you, "what max rpms is your sled turning now"? need to know that, as that is important info. you come on here wanting help, but you won't listen to us on here that know a thing or too. i just don't understand some people.

any 700 srx, shouldn't have any trouble spanking a nytro. they are 120hp (earlier models) and 130hp (newer models). a stock srx is approx 140hp, w/lot longer legs too.
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I think he got his feelings hurt by everyone right away telling him to remove the Hauck silencer?
 
sorry every-one ive been busy working i very much appreciate all the help and will definetly remove that silencer i plan on checking my power-valves and i think i have my primary stock (wheights-spring-ect.) but my secondary is not i do know that you cannnot put a secondary helix on without changing my primary i talked to hartman per. in canada he told me to start with stock and then mess with it more this is also the first sled ive owned with studs and of course it has as many studs as posssible i think 200 the reason i want a big bore kit is because i have been riding for almost 20 years and love the 2 strokes just need more power
 
you can run a different secondary helix with stock primary. you should have 8dn-20 weights, remove the inner rivets, and install 4.5 gram rivets with stock primary spring, get a micro belmont 52/46 helix, and stock red primary spring wound at 90. at 40* out with stock jetting and shitty snow conditions, i was pulling 105 every pull on GPS, and no doubt it will be faster in colder weather. but even in the warmer weather, i was quicker and pulled away on top end from an 09 apex and 09 dragon 800. this setup works
 
Spinner18 said:
you can run a different secondary helix with stock primary. you should have 8dn-20 weights, remove the inner rivets, and install 4.5 gram rivets with stock primary spring, get a micro belmont 52/46 helix, and stock red primary spring wound at 90. at 40* out with stock jetting and shitty snow conditions, i was pulling 105 every pull on GPS, and no doubt it will be faster in colder weather. but even in the warmer weather, i was quicker and pulled away on top end from an 09 apex and 09 dragon 800. this setup works
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no he won't....not on a stock '98 srx. those weights were 8dn-00.
 
i was reading about adjusting my power valves it says to use 2.5mm for spacer between the block and power valve is that correct and what really is a pull through
 
a pull thru is where the cable that pulls open the valve, has pulled thru the little slot on the back of the valve. if that's the case, contact YA*AM*A*HEAD on here to get your valves fixed.
 
my sled is actally a 99 but im sure there the same 2000 would be different . I cant say for sure about my rpm's but it does run strong to 8000-8500 its at about 6500-7000 that it just dies off i did notice that my belt is not sitting on top of my secondary not even flush could be my secondary helix?
 
coop99srx said:
my sled is actally a 99 but im sure there the same 2000 would be different . I cant say for sure about my rpm's but it does run strong to 8000-8500 its at about 6500-7000 that it just dies off i did notice that my belt is not sitting on top of my secondary not even flush could be my secondary helix?
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So your sled has a 500 rpm range that it maxs out at? Sometimes its 8000 and sometimes its 8500? We need to know exact!!!! Also need to know what it does rpms wise from the time you leave the line. If your sled is a '99, then your weights should be 8dn-10, if its stock. Your helix isn't what's causing your belt to sit how it is. Its your worn belt and/or improper belt deflection.
 
hte belt is brand new i tried changing my belt deflection by adding and removing washers but it still sits low in the secondary as far as rpm's i cant say for certan but it engages at stock engagment 4500
 
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