SRX motor opened up

bluemonster1

bluemonster1

LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
12,690
Age
68
Location
Howden ,Manitoba,Canada
Got the old SRX opened up tonight.Removing cylinders was a breeze,removing piston pins was a :o| #$%&* .Rigged up a clamp with 2 sockets,pushed pin out into larger socket..it worked.First one was able to push out by hand,the center and #1 was really a tight fit for some reason.Cylinders look good,I will mic the pistons ,but will change them anyways.I only have like 6400 miles on the motor,do I really have to crack open the cases to do seals,or just leave the seals be??..Got some pics of it and a video.Easier then I thought.After this rebuild I will change rings every 3000 miles.I will give the cylinders a brief hone I gather,got the tool to do it.I will keep up the progress report and pics.
 
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some picks

here are some pics of the dis-assembly of top end.
 

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How would I go about cleaning up the outside of the cylinders?Do I use a drill and wire wheel?I removed motor last fall to clean up the chasis from the mess of oil.But it is all dirty again from 1 season,guess it cannot be helped.Maybe I will lay down sheets of plastic wrap all over the place,then it would catch all the mess,and when I remove motor a few years down the line,just pull off the plastic.
 
Engine rebuild

BlueMonster - nice to see a fellow member working on his motor performing preventive maintainance pre-season. I hope your replacing pistons and rings with OEM. You said the "crosshatch is still visible". I have to add that almost every engine I have torn down has this crosshatch visible and looking rather good. Keep in mind this hatch has been buffed for many miles and won't be very useful for break in with new pistons and rings. Having your cylinders professionally honed at this time would be money well spent. I'm refering to a diamond hone that will be perfectly straight and true. I would like to know some thoughts of the engine experts of what they think when rebuilding motors? ---mac the knife---
 
yes pistons and rings are being changed for sure.Probably gonna crack the cases and change seals already to.Going thru the whole sled and get it like new again,all bearings also.
 
Also, this are nikasil coated cyl so be careful when attemting to hone the cyls. All you are really want to do is deglaze the cyl, the nikasil is very hard and you are not going to dimensionally change the bore. The best way to prep your cylinder for a rebuild is to clean it thoroughly with a Scotch-Brite pad and warm soapy water. Clean it several times, rinse, and then wipe it dry with a white paper towel. If the paper towel doesn't stay white, clean it again, and repeat until the paper towel stays white. After it's clean, inspect the bore surface. If the cross-hatch is not clearly visible, the plating is worn out, and it's time for a re-plate. Using a ball hone could catch a port and it may start chipping around the ports.
 
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A little trick I use to test crank seals when the jugs are off is what I call a "fuel test". I fill one crank cavity with fuel to a level that is higher than the top of the seals. Then rotate the crank by hand and let it sit for 10 minutes or so. If you don't get any fuel leaking into the next cylinder or out an end seal those two seals are doing their job. If all is good I empty that crank cavity of fuel and bow it out so it is dry then move on to the next cylinder and repeat untill they all have been done. If they all check out good I then rotate the crank with the now clean dry bearings to feel for any hitches and listen for clicking noises that are a sign that a bearing cage has come apart. If all is good I then squirt new 2 stroke oil down the passages that feed the mains until I get some puddling in the bottom of the case. Lube up the rod bearings in the same fashion and you're good to go.

I also use this test when I am going to replace seals regardless of their condition just to help pinpoint any possible bottom end issues that need to be addressed before I take it apart. Testing end and center seals is not possible after it's apart and I always like to know where I'm going before I get there.

I would start with the center on a tripple but it doesn't really matter as long as you do them one at a time. To remove the fuel from the case I use an electric fuel pump setup with hoses on both ends (this setup doubles as my summerizing pump to empty the fuel tank). This is also a good way to clean a bottom end that has had a cylinder go down.

Good Luck, opsled
 
All, great reading. I'm doing the same thing on my sled. I'm waiting untill after laborday to hear the mic results of the jugs pistons and pins. As far as the cleaning the outside of the motor I was just going to use mineral spirits/brush and just be careful doing it, not to get any on the internal parts.
 
ok

well the motor is out now,I can clean chasis(again) and replace steering components,slight play in all the rod ends.Man as I view the motor,I have a lot to strip off in order to crack cases open..NOW I AM GETTING NERVOUS!!!
I will take a lot of pics.If I can pull this off it will be a MIRACLE!!!!.I may have just seen the last of the SRX if I screw up here.Can't believe I have to slpit cases in order to replace seals... :o| .WHAT did I get myself into here...stay calm Doug!!! It will be an experience for sure.
 
last time I took the motor out I lifted it up and out and put back in and pulled my back out :o| .Had trouble trying to connect up the oil line down below..
Today I rigged an appartus and used my winch to lift it out slow and easy..and I am still walking :rulez: .A bit easier for sure.. ;)! Will I have an issue removing the flywheel..I need a puller of some sort I gather.I will start to strip the motor down slowly..write every step in a notebook and take pics.Then I can reverse the procedure as written out.HOPEFULLY I can get thru it..And if I do..then it will be easier when I rebuild the 600 right after.
 

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u need 2 go 2 a truck wash shop that cleans alluminum u get a acid for alluminum that cleans that right up 2 shinny clean wash off with hot water. they will look like new with very little effort. it sprays on with a bottle like winddex bottle leave sit for a couple minutes pressure wash off with hot water u can repeat till clean.
 
extremelyfastmax4 said:
u need 2 go 2 a truck wash shop that cleans alluminum u get a acid for alluminum that cleans that right up 2 shinny clean wash off with hot water. they will look like new with very little effort. it sprays on with a bottle like winddex bottle leave sit for a couple minutes pressure wash off with hot water u can repeat till clean.
Click to expand...




Sorry to Hi Jack, but what is this acid called and where can it be bought? Can I use it on my tailer also?



Thx!



Mike
 
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