SRX motor opened up

I have 4800+ miles on mine So when ever your done Blue I'll bring mine over so you can work on it OK thanks
 

lol... your making me nervous about mine there blue!

post pics of every bolt you take apart n put back... that way I can just follow my rebuild... put it back together bolt per pic.... lol ;)!
 
rx1jim..so the view in the second set of pics you say is the back side of the oil seal.Looking closely at it it is flat towards the back and has a protrusion from it surrounding the shaft.That is all one right!There seems to be indentations in 2 spots around the back that one can take a screwdriver and pop the thing off,but it'll deform before it comes off,but should come off.Is that piece actually part of the seal or is it a separate piece that butts up to the oil seal,and must be removed carefully...don't get it...... :o| :o| #$%&*
 
here is a closeup of it.The extension from the back that goes over the shaft(which has 2 tabs on it),is it all part and parcel with the flat back surface?There are 2 areas of indentation around it that seems like a place to pry up,but I tried and nothing seems to move outward.So then it is all 1 piece that surrounds the shaft and towards the back(inside).You say just to drill it and yank it out.I will probably wait till I get my new seal and look at it first..
 

Attachments

  • P9090123.JPG
    P9090123.JPG
    122.3 KB · Views: 12
I have not had any luck prying those shaft seals out. I always end up tapping the lip from the outside edge in, to get enough of a grab point to get my duck bill plyers on the seal lip so I can twist/pull it out of the case. In my experience the seal has always been thoroughly destroyed when I'm done!
Bob
 
all lower rod bearings seem fine.If I pull on them or push down,there is no slack or play being felt.There is the normal side play in all.Everything was coated with ATF when I used it for fogging.There was oil present in the case's,not dry at all..so it's getting the oil down there for sure,no rust issues anywhere also.
 
Last edited:
Bearings

TO test rod bearings pull straight up on the rod and make sure the crank is in tdc postion then smack the rod straight down with your hand, it shouldnt make any type of noise. I agree, if the engine is apart replace ALL seals, even those crank seal, they dont cost that much.
BTW make sure and premix your first tank of fuel and track your oil resevoir usage to ensure lines are primed and pump works 100%...Im sure you may know all this already but is too much information too much...dont sweat youll be fine!
 
Hey blue... could ya take some pics when ya get a chance of the bottom end split open... and where some of the stuff goes in there n so on... just trying to get a better look of what to all expect... your doing a fine job covering most of the questions im prob going to have lol... but ya... if you dont mind would be aweomse!

Cheers and good luck
 
I have everything apart for about 3 weeks now.Waiting for the parts to show up.According to the tracking of USPS,cleared customs Friday.Soshould be anytime this week.
I will take pics as I go along also.Got my case sealant from Yamaha..it is the threebond 1194 for about $15.00.Everything is sitting covered up,I sprayed the crank and case's with fogging oil to keep oxidation away until parts arrive.then I will wash the crank good and cases.Then apply 2 stroke oil to all the crank bearings and the show begins...wish me luck!!!
 
PS:You wouldn't want me to video tape everything as I go because there will be a lot of swear words flying and I don't have editing knowledge...lol!!!
 
dont want to stir things up but if you premix in the gas tank and the oil pump is pumping oil that will make it run lean .....i would just put a gallon of gas with oil start it up and just let it idle and hold the oil pump cable all the way open and you will know when it is pumping oil in .....than fill the tank with 93 and thin out that premix ....just my opnion take it for what you want ....and i know i am gonna get the question how will that make it lean ?? its hard to explain but i remember a post about this .....



BTW make sure and premix your first tank of fuel and track your oil resevoir usage to ensure lines are primed and pump works 100%...Im sure you may know all this already but is too much information too much...dont sweat youll be fine![/QUOTE]
 
Hey Rich that sounds about right.Last year I had the motor out,put it all back...bleed the oil line and she worked as usual.Can't see why it would be different this time.But pre-mixing a gallon can't hurt.
 
ya i have change a few motors ...and as we all know when the pump goes out it pumps full bore .....i just bleed the pump good and in seconds it starts pumping ....could rig can and just run it to fuel pump so not putting oil in the gas tank ....
 
my parts have arrived.Will wait until next week to start the rebuild.Got to rest up and be calm proir to it..lolll As for the oil seal for the water pump..if I can't pull that metal cover over it off nice and clean..it ain't being changed.Where the hell would I get another like it.It is not in the Yamaha Fiche.Just shows mechanical seal and then oil seal.Doesn't show the metal piece that is between them both where the mechanical seal mounts to... #$%&*
 

Attachments

  • P9090123.JPG
    P9090123.JPG
    122.3 KB · Views: 2
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top