SRX motor opened up


alumi bright is what you are thinking of doug ..thats what truck washes use ...works good but if you have polished the alumnium it will dull it back down and u will have to polish again
 
i am sure u can get it but its not cheap i know that ....i get mine from my local triton dealer ...he fills my squirt bottle free since i bought my trailer from him
 
I am in the same boat as you Blue. Tore my SRX down, pulled flwheel, and cracked the case all this spring. I sent my motor to Don to get some "work" done. I am scared $#!tless that I am gonna put this thing back together wrong. Its my first time doing anything like this. Once the assembly starts TY will be hearing a lot of questions from me.:) Good luck with your project!!
 
it's all in your head..memory!!!!Hey but by the time you get her done,You'll be looking for another to do.As long as we place the crank in properly with all the alignment procedures with the bearings and such.
 
monster,

If you can get hold of some wiseco wrist pins, they are 2/3 the weight of OEM and work just as good for your rebuild. They free up a little reciprocating weight.
 
u just have 2 make sure u line up ur dowel pins and dont force any thing 2 geather like bender did on my vmax4big bore, i know tim does,ent do work like that but one of his clowns in the back did so, never lined up the dowell pins and bolted it 2 geather forced well it would run and did for 6 winters of drag racing, cracked the race on the pto crank bearing the cage fell down into the crank case and the balls where rolling around on the race, that caused a lean burn down as the engine seal was not sealing properley, i have it fixed now 700 dollars later.
 
did a dry fit and all looks good,lining up everything.Ie-mailed the Yami dealer here to see if they have the Yamabond 5 sealant and then I am on my way..thanks.
 
Blue, don't worry about your engine rebuild project. You will do a fine job. Just take your time and keep everything as clean as possible during the assembly process. Don't skimp on the parts, use all new seals and gaskets and stay with OEM parts. Be sure to use NEW wrist pin retainer clips. I would recommned changing the seals on the water pump while you have the engine open.

I am rebuilding two 2000 SRX engines. One has 14,000 miles on it and has never been opened. The second one is to make sure the engine is properly assembled since I bought it from somebody who says they rebuilt it but looks like they did an incomplete job.

I am cleaning the exterior of the crank case halve and the cylinders by glass beading them (NOT sandblasting). It works great to clean the surface without removing material. I am going to paint the exterior of the cylinders and the crankcases with an silver/gray engine paint. This will make the exterior less likely to get dirty, the bare aluminum castings seem to attract dirt like a magnet.
 
the glass beading is the answer, be careful of the muriatic acid truckers use it on their rims but it eats aluminum it works well when you lose a piston and there is some aluminum stuck to the sleeves a little acid and it eats it right off.
but neutralize with baking soda.
 
Bluemonster,

A company called Biokleen makes a variety of cleaning products for sleds. I tried the belly pan cleaner and the aluminum cleaner. Both work very well. You need to thoroughly clean all the grease and oil off the aluminum which you want to brighten up with the aluminum cleaner.
 
RX1jim..is this the seal you speak of.In the fiche it shows 2 seals,1 mechanical and one in front of it.But I don't see a second one.I just see a piece of metal.
 

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Of course I take the bolt off and finns came off easy to.The washer on the bolt wouldn't you know it breaks apart..new one needed ad them little washers are like $15...go figure...
 
Now you just see metal back there.Is there another seal behind or is it the backside of the oil seal?How would that come out being the shaft has 2 tabs on it?
 

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Blue, there are two seals on the water pump shaft. The one you show in the pic is the mechanical seal. It has 2 pieces, the one you show in the pic and the other part is on the back of the impeller. The spring on the part in the pic pushes the seal against the part on the impeller. The sealing surfaces are made out of a very hard material such as silicon carbide. This seal relies on the engine coolant as a lubricant. The second seal on the shaft is an oil seal in the cavity where the shaft runs through. The $15 washer-seal is the most likely part to cause a coolant leak. BE SURE to use a new one!!! Well worth the $15 to avoid a problem. Also, use some low strength loctitite on the splines on the shaft where the impeller mounts. The washer seal fails if the impeller is allowed to wobble on the shaft due to the imperfect fit of the impeller to the shaft. The loctite fills any voids so the impeller cannot wobble.
 
Blue, your second set of pictures shows the oil seal. Behind the oil seal is a snap ring and a ball bearing. You have to drill or poke holes in the oil seal and use a pick to pull it out.

Is there any rust on the impeller drive shaft right behind the impeller?
 
no rust at all.Impeller came off easily.You really want me to poke a hole in there...lol.I guess I am this far into it,what is a few more $$$.
 
I can't tell you what to do, it is your choice. I am just telling you what I am doing on my rebuilds. The way I look at it, why skimp on a few dollars when you can go all the way and replace the worn parts. I think it is good insurance to replace all the seals and gaskets on a high mileage engine. In the past, whenever I skimped on a few parts, i always regretted it and had to do the job over.
 
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