Yamahasrx700
Member
The co efficient of friction is lower with a plastic bushing and grease.
Yamahasrx700 said:
gonna be my wifes sled and the start of my collection If I can ever finish geting it to the maintenance only point...... I dont think she'll notice, much less me either!!! I just want to be able to abbuse it and not work on it.... HD is my goal rather than smooth and light!!!
ok here is the part # you need. came off of yamaha usa site so you should be ok.
you need: 2-8CR-21943-01-00, 2-8CR-21953-00-00 & 8-90267-47197-00
i suggest an air riviter for the rivits as they are a sob to pull by hand in the space you have.
you need: 2-8CR-21943-01-00, 2-8CR-21953-00-00 & 8-90267-47197-00
i suggest an air riviter for the rivits as they are a sob to pull by hand in the space you have.
Maim said:
you are awesome maim!!!! $7.50 worth of parts is way better than replacing the tunnel!!!
where did you find the PN's???? I usually use Ronnies mail order to look them up but, sometimes it just doesnt have enough detail..... more of a quick fix mechanics parts finder!!!
i looked them up on my old sled, a 01 sx500r, whitch is the same chassis. you have to zoom in at least 4 times on the frame section of the fiche before you get enough detail to see them. i used the yamaha parts list link on the ty home page. saves my dealer a lot of time when i go in with the part # for what i want. better i do that some times as the rookie parts guys get a stunned look sometimes when i am doing mod parts.
Maim said:
Thanks I'll have to check it out!!! sounds like it has a little more detail than the one I used to...... I do the same thing, but now my local dealer started a website..... with the P/N you can order your own parts at 40% off and just pick them up in their parts dept. !!!!!!
didn't even know TY had their own Really Really easy to work Micro Fische!!!!
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx (in my favorites now!!! Ronnies.....deeelete!!!)
the other one I've been using is hard to navigate and doesn't maintain pic resolution as it zooms!!!
Thanks 1,000,000
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx (in my favorites now!!! Ronnies.....deeelete!!!)
the other one I've been using is hard to navigate and doesn't maintain pic resolution as it zooms!!!
Thanks 1,000,000
np happy to help out when i can.
thstorms said:
Its all about how you treat your sled good maintenance and keepin things tight goes a long ways.
mtnmaxman600 said:
Kinda what everyone who's a veteran is telling me..... stick with the plastic anywhere it makes contact with Aluminum, If I do anything Delron(sp?) is the only other way to go!!!
I guess Yamaha probably knew what they were doing..... kinda...... I'm just excited, if I'm going to build a sled part by part I want it to be as strong and reliable as it possibly can be!!!!
well it time for a little break from the negativity!!!!!
OOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!
AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!
HUBBA HUBBA!!!!!!
^^^^^^^^
THANKS FOR THE TRAILING ARM YA*AM*A*HEAD!!!!!!
THANKS FOR THE SMOKIN DEAL ON POWDERCOATING AMATOSRX!!!!!!
THANKS FOR THE TRAILING ARM YA*AM*A*HEAD!!!!!!
THANKS FOR THE SMOKIN DEAL ON POWDERCOATING AMATOSRX!!!!!!
DELRON thats the stuff i made them bushings from
I dont mean to sond like a MR perfect Ya*am*a*head, are you sure its not delrin? The material feels smooth and slick just by handling it, not sticky and grabby like nylon.
PZ 1
Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2005
- Messages
- 987
thstorms said:
Like others have said, all of the problems appear to be from wear and a lack of maintenance. There is no need to pull the skid to replace the shocks, so he probably did not have it out. I think what appears to be sandpaper is what is left of the plastic bushings. The W arm looks normal to me - they are a weak point, so the crack is not unusual. The oblong holes in the tunnel are from a disintegrated front axle bearing and loose cross shaft bolts.
I appreciate all the great advice!!!!!
Thanks everyone!!!!
keep it coming!!!!
Thanks everyone!!!!
keep it coming!!!!
more evidence of the accident theory..... pieced back together, hammered straight, reinforced!!!
I used a piece of solid 5/8" aluminum rod 14" long to reinforce the torn area.... I plan to have it welded just to make sure the rod doesn't move!!!
I used a piece of solid 5/8" aluminum rod 14" long to reinforce the torn area.... I plan to have it welded just to make sure the rod doesn't move!!!
Reminds me of my first sled. It was a 97 Polaris XLT 600. The year with the bad crank. I bought it not running cause I didn't have much money to spend and thought I was pretty mechanical, which I am. The guy said it just quit and he didn't want to mess with it. When I got it torn down it was obvious that he had messed with it and had put it back together wrong and I had nothing but problems with that sled. Sold it for parts 4 years later.
I guess the moral of the story if I had to do it over is save your money a little longer till you can buy something nice and clean that is in good running condition. I know I had enough into that old Polaris to have bought a really nice sled. But I learned a lot too, so there's 2 sides.
I guess the moral of the story if I had to do it over is save your money a little longer till you can buy something nice and clean that is in good running condition. I know I had enough into that old Polaris to have bought a really nice sled. But I learned a lot too, so there's 2 sides.
sxr70001 said:
Probably sound advice..... but this is now kind of a TY family build!!! I have to save it, build it as sound and reliable as possible and keep it 'till its time to pass it along to the next one in line...... for now that looks like my wife, soooo it will probably only be riden a handful of times each year!!!
After a good hard whooping this year of course!!!..... just to make sure its top notch!!!