Broke off clutch puller....any ideas?

Vibration can relive the tension on a tapered shaft, Not heavy hitting like a solid hammer has but a high low tension hit of an short barrelled air hammer. If you had the wrong remover, possibly you have acctually threaded the remover into the crank. If this is what happened you are in for a problem. I had to do this on an older Arctic Cat a person brought to me. I actually drilled multiple holes into the clutch shaft to release the tension once I cut the shaft. Alot of work but I did save the crank. Good luck Al
 

Good with a cuttin torch? Use a cuttin torch and very nicely cut through the center and then start to go around and open it up some. The crank is steel and those pullers are some shitty cast. It should open up easy. What ever is left you can break loose with a hammer and punch or chisel.
 
Try some snap on left hand extractors like were mentioned earlier, I have had lots of luck with removing varying sizes of broken bolts etc. with them. I will usually try welding a nut on first just as its much easier and usually get the job done quicker but with some of the more stubborn one the left hand bits and extractors work perfect. Thats what I'd be trying, just make sure when you drill you get it centered. Also it might be a tough drill now that you've heated that by welding it.
 
Removal

As I mentioned some time ago get a 3/8 left handed tap and a 3/8 grade 8 left handthreaded bolt and do it.
 
I took a Partner saw with a metal cutting blade and cut 2 inches off the end of the clutch shaft. Then I tacked a nut on to the puller and backed out the puller. It turned out it was the wrong puller. When I stoPped at Aaen and bought the puller I was told that Olav said this was the puller I needed. Now I have been given the run around to get a replacement. Hung up on and "oh we'll call you back" is all I get. I know its not a big deal to them but It is to me cause I still don't have a clutch puller.
 
And I'm out the primary clutch for my SRX cause put on this guys SX for him. Oh and I got the clutch off by prying and beating with rubber mallet.
 
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that does suck :o| . If this does help from now on learned from the past problems. I make sure the packages says it is for what I need it for. I hate getting wrong parts. they always say sorry and get me the right thing..

Hope that helps for next time... ;)!
 
I think welding a nut sounds like the best idea!!!

If you have a big center punch try center punching the puller and give it a few extra hard wacks!!! when I pull my clutch I tighten the puller 'till it stops then hit it with a large ball peene 'till it pops......

with that much tension on the puller you should be able to get it to pop off with a little heat and vibration!!!
 
That clutch puller that they gave me was too short it never made it to the crankshaft. So it must have smOoshed the threads together or something leaving me no option but to cut it off.
 
Hum interesting, too short a puller, I have an 02 Viper that is giving me grief right now and I'm trying to use the puller that I've used on my 03 RX1 and 2000 SRX. I'm hoping it's the right puller for this, don't want to end up breaking it in the clutch. Some people say to use cold and some say heat, what's best for this? I would think that you want to heat the clutch part and cool the crank shaft part right? Pretty much impossible to heat or cool the crank shaft but where would you heat the clutch, at the shaft between the sheaves? I'm trying ice packs now but it doesn't seem to be working. I haven't broken the puller yet, hope I don't.
 
Shouldnt there be some collaation with the length of primary bolt and puller? Or have I ben wasting my time comparing puller to bolt? Jersey Joe is 100% correct on the left hand drill bit. I have actually had bolts turn them selves out during the drill process just because of the left hand rotation and vibration from drilling
 
Well looks like I have the right puller got the clutch to let go, and then pulled another Viper clutch off, same thing though and didn't break the puller. The trick was to heat the clutch shaft with a propane torch between the sheaves. Heat it for 5 minutes at least and keep trying. I had to put quite a bit of pressure on it and it finally released, however it didn't pop hard, just kind of let go softly with a click. I've had them pop before and think that happens when it is torque'd properly. Just happy to have them off without doing any damage.
 
I wonder why everyone has problems with these. Just put the puller in. Grab the socket.
Grab the impact and hit the trigger....works great every year.... ;)!
 
j_k_auto said:
I wonder why everyone has problems with these. Just put the puller in. Grab the socket.
Grab the impact and hit the trigger....works great every year.... ;)!
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...and rattle a weight or magnet off the flywheel or worse. It may never, but once it happens to you you'll find the caution against using an impact is a valid one.

If replacing the moveable sheave bushing is planned anyhow, I don't see using heat as a big concern as long as it doesn't get the crank seal too hot. For this reason alone is why I wouldn't do it. Perhaps wrapping the crank behind the clutch with a wet rag could help keep the heat localized, but I've never had the need.


A four ft. breaker bar, a chunk of 2x4 on the belly pan slotted to accomodate the strap wrench keeping it centered is all I've ever used. I've seen hammer handles wedged between the spider to keep the clutch from moving but never wanted to take the chance of breaking a tower.

JMHO
 
snomofo said:
...and rattle a weight or magnet off the flywheel or worse. It may never, but once it happens to you you'll find the caution against using an impact is a valid one.

If replacing the moveable sheave bushing is planned anyhow, I don't see using heat as a big concern as long as it doesn't get the crank seal too hot. For this reason alone is why I wouldn't do it. Perhaps wrapping the crank behind the clutch with a wet rag could help keep the heat localized, but I've never had the need.


A four ft. breaker bar, a chunk of 2x4 on the belly pan slotted to accomodate the strap wrench keeping it centered is all I've ever used. I've seen hammer handles wedged between the spider to keep the clutch from moving but never wanted to take the chance of breaking a tower.

JMHO
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What do you use to keep the clutch from moving?
 
2x4 slotted to center strap wrench. Putting strap wrench where belt usually rides or if you have room behind stationary sheeve. They vary by manufacturer but strap wrench kind of looks like a ratchet strap with a handle, kind of same theory behind common oil filter wrench
 
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