got to solve why my SRX won't scream as it used to

bluemonster1

bluemonster1

LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
12,690
Age
68
Location
Howden ,Manitoba,Canada
You all have followed me and my SRX for several seasons already.One season the SRX wasn't performing and found out at the end of the season it was a clutch issue.I switched clutches around from my 600..switched weights and she jumped like a wildfire.That was solved,rebuilt all 3 of my primary clutches totally that summer(2 years ago).Season after that sled performed well,even hit 118 mph on speedo on a warm 7 Celcius day in April.Then last year it just didn't perform well at all.In 2008 she would scream reached 100 easily and needle dropped rapidly after that.Last year it just didn't have that certain sound/feeling to it..like wanted to open up all the way when pinned.I was very dissapointed.Everyone was telling me I had blowby and motor needed re-building.So this year re-built the damn motor and was waiting for the results.Sure she goes,but again the screaming feeling isn't there like it used to have.I did the old faithful again..switched clutches around from the 600 to the SRX just to see if things changed.Nothing really noticable happened.Now I was told to try replacing plugs to check if this helped.When I switched to new plugs it didn't do anything better,so put the old ones back in and will test tomorrow if there is a difference.Now I have new plug caps coming in a few weeks as my next change to see what gives.I am leaning towards the servo motor now.I changed servo and didn't notice a difference.If I idle rpm to 900,servo turns and valves open.When I go back to normal idle..servo goes back to close valves.How do I know if the servo is actually working at high rpm's??Could this be my problem? When motor starts up..light flashes 3 times as should be.How do I know if it will ever flash now if denotation or bad fuel is an issue?I have stock jetting and with the different setups I have tried..like 54/44 or the 8Bu-10's with 50/40..the motor lugs down badly..are the valves opening is the question here.Is the CDI sending the signal or what??We just purchased a helmet cam,so I will remove the servo cover..strap the camera in there with a light and tape what the servo is doing at wot...this should verify something.Even a few of you guys told me my 700 should pull them 8BU's like nothing,but am struggling to.The compression numbers are all up approx at 25 to 27 psi when I last checked.No leaks anywhere,plugs are a good color..piston wash is great..Do I need to get my voltage tester and start testing certain things first to get some kind of an idea what's up.COULD the CDI be the culprit here??Some guys have to jet way richer then me to get the DCS from flashing.Come to think of it..I have never seen a flash in like almost 2 seasons.I am on stock jetting with 91 premium fuel also.Maybe it should be flashing..but doesn't.But I think I would know when it would kick on by the feel of the motor at that point.That doesn't seem to be the problem then.Got to get this solved and get the SRX back up and running hard again..what am I missing.,sled starts in 4 pulls alway in the garage also.Something is holding me back..suspicious on the servo opening or else CDI not operating properly.Anyone have a suggestion or 2...lol
 

honestly with fuel quality being what it is, I would almost grab some 110 octane and see what it does. Other then that I would lean toward a weak spark and you can just put a plug on the end of those and look to see what color spark you have from it.
 
MONSTER, YOU HAVE ANOTHER 02 SRX CDI TO TRY. THATS WHERE I WOULD START. HAVE TO KEEP IN MIND, THAT BOX IS REALLY THE BRAIN TRUST OF YOUR SNOWMOBILE, THATS WHERE IT STARTS. WHISH YOU WERE HERE IN NY, I LET YA BORROW MINE. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
srx

This might seem too obvious, but last year I had am 02 srx which wasnt just right, pipes sounded deeper in a bad way. Problem was due to a plugged pilot jet and the way I could tell was the pipe was a bit colder and seemed to rev a little higher than normal on startup.

I also tried a lot of experimenting last year with weights and lower gearing and I learned that my srx didnt respond well to the heavy weights. It would top out around 8300 or so I think the sled runs much better 8500-8600 as most people would agree.

Lastly, this year, my srx wasnt just right on 1st ride which was due to one bad spark plug. The plug had a very slight different shade of tan-brown than the other 2 plugs so I changed it even though it wasnt wet and didnt appear to be fouled but that solved my problem.

This year I am back to a tried and true setup and sled rips. stock gearing, 8dn-20 weights, 4.5 gr. rivets both holes, 48-40 advantedge helix.

Mark
 
thanks for your input otis...I changed plugs again tonight and will test it.I did a resistance check on the plug caps. It is supposed to be in the 5 ohm range.Only 1 cap registered like 2 ohm and the other 2 registered 0 ohm's. I have new plug caps coming in also.I am on ther lookout for a good used CDI.Got to get the part number and match it up with what I can find.That would be my last resort,but if anyone has 1 laying around,Imay consider it if the price is right.
 
A couple questions/comments.

Is your performance drop off coincidental with:

1] change of tracks?
2] change of skiis?
3] long travel suspension

I also have a 2002 SRX and when I installed my 1 1/4 " ripsaw I lost top end and when I installed my Simmons flex skiis I really noticed the increase in drag as on anything other then ice like hard pack...LOL!...the Viper shocks didn't help things on my sled either! [I won't even talk about what the reverse kit does for performance!]

When you think about it the SRX came from the factory slammed low to the ice with a rubber band weight speed track and low friction single runner skiis...they were rockets like this. Most of us have changed to deep lug heavy tracks and/or studs ect and have really upset the balance that made these sleds so fast out of the crate!

JM.02c

Bob
 
I haven't changed tracks,skis in like 3 years.I still have the stock shocks on board.When I bought that sled,it had the stock track with 144 studs and that thinged moved out I'll tell ya.I was cat walking the SRX like crazy back then.Went from stock track to a 1 inch predator and then added 120 studs last year also.I remember when I made some videos last year on some runs and you said the SRX sounded a little flat sounding also .It just didn't seem like it really wanted to wind up,I can tell by the sound also..that screaming SRX sound wasn't there anymore.That is where I thought a complete re-build would bring it back,but not.SO..the issue is yet to be found..but slowly working on it.I miss that quick launching..cat walking.fast acceleration sled I once had..New CDI's are like $455 and on backorder yet....ahhh!.. :o|
 
I think someone swapped in a 600 motor in its place over the summer...

power valves are in facing the right way... exhaust is clear... oil pump is set right... track isnt over-tight... right belt... driveline bearings are in good shape... ummmmm... just throwing out ideas... stator?
 
you know..I thought one night maybe I had put the PV's in upside down and went into the garage to take one out and was hoping they were wrong so that I would of solved the problem..but they were in right.

Track is loose,changed servo motor's,installed all new PV cables,cables not to tight and no pull thru's now.Everything else you mentioned is fine.I go thru my stuff with a fine tooth comb every year.Now if my motor starts in 4 pulls and idles ok .why would the stator come into play.Usually stator needs replacing if intermitent spark happening or all 3 cylinders aren't firing.It is nothing to get another stator,I can find them cheap enough.My mains thing is to find out if that servo motor is operating at wot speeds.Like I said,will be hooking up a helmet cam to the engine compartment with the servo cover of and take her for a boot to see if indeed it is operating..then 1 less thing to worry about.Went thru all bearings this past November..all have been repacked .
 
hmmph... I dunno, I have always had the thought in the back of my mind that the stator might not put out enough power in the higher rpms to support the spark if they are on their way out... I have never had a problem with one before so I dont know, and my closest experience with one last winter ended up getting parted before my friend swapped stators...
 
Let us know about that servo motor...that would sure explain it. But if yor valves were not opening the carbon line should show that when you are cleaning them??
 
You haven't noticed your hand warmers not working by chance have you? A couple times this last week I noticed mine wasn't as zippy and then I realized the warmrs weren't working either. The all the sudden the snap would be back and they were working again. I'm hoping maybe I have a harness rub through or a bad connection, but I was thinking it might be the stator acting up as well. Going to check it out this week.
 
we'll see what gives then.My stepson just bought the HelmetCam today and I won't get it until Saturday to test.Should be a simple test anyways.If the servo won't operate at hiher speeds..them probably CDI isn't putting out anymore.BUT if the servo wasn't working BOB..then wouldn't I be getting some flashes on my dash..like 7 flashes in 5 seconds or something telling me it is not working..unless the CDI isn't sending signals anymore..
 
hay blue buddy had same problem his track was to loose and it would balloon.my other thought is as mentioned the stator might not be putting out enough power or weak flywheel magnets. just thoughts
 
if the stator wasn't putting out enough power..wouldn't it show up on my plugs,they are all nice tan brown color.And wouldn't I be getting some mis firing going on also.What do I know about stators anyways...
 
bluemonster1 said:
if the stator wasn't putting out enough power..wouldn't it show up on my plugs,they are all nice tan brown color.And wouldn't I be getting some mis firing going on also.What do I know about stators anyways...
Click to expand...
My sled wasn't misfiring at all, it just never had the low end zip. The only reason I'm thinking about the stator is because I happened to notice the handwarmers not working when it wasn't performing as good, then working again when it was snappy again.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top