got to solve why my SRX won't scream as it used to

the reeds are brand new and placing the reed valve up to light the reeds are sealing.My handwarmers are hot as hell when I use them.Man this electrical stuff is really confusing.A lot of guys are having electrical issues lately..what can I say.Today I am going to check all my plug ins wherever I can disconnect them..try to clean them and plug back in.I wiring harness has been ....
 

probly a longshot but, my viper started losing performance a few years ago. not over night, but really gradual. eventually got so bad it wouldn't run for crap, had to rent a sled to finnish a trip. got back home, started tearing stuff apart and found a reed valve that had lost almost half a petal. replaced reeds and she screamed just like new. just a thought and not too hard to inspect. good luck.
 
like I said,my reeds are new.Sled starts in 4 pulls in garage.Idles good and runs nicely.But it is when I really pin it from a standstill it goes but feels like it could go more.Its not the wild hang on to your handlebar feel like it used to have.I get no lights blinking on the dash when I do the hard pulls either.But just being a rebuilt motor..it should give me back that feel..that is why I am dissapointed.I get no backfire of any kind,no missing going on that I can feel.Like I said I have to first find out if them PV's are opening up when they are supposed to,otherwise I will have that powerloss..flat feel to it.
 
Mark the clutch so you no were the belt is ending up its strange that it worked better with a better clutch once and not now.But these clutches are not the best even with a rebuild the plastic slides are ushally overlooked.I know you have rebuilt a few.

Do you have any spring shims you could try one under the spring for the hell of it.If you dont a bearing c clip will work.
 
I have used them shims also under the clutch spring.I have always marked my clutches with black marker to see if the belt climbs to where it is supposed to.Belt around 1/4 from the top...like I was saying..possible 3 major issues to work on.Clutches,PV's and electrical.That is why I switched clutches around the other day to see if anything changes,and nothing..so clutches seem ok.If the SRX would of all of a sudden jumped with a clutch switch a room then I would rebuild the clutch again..coming down to PV's or electrical now.And we all know electrical can be a b*tch...actually PV issue could be electrical..so now it all boils down to electrical..... :o| :o| #$%&* .I will go thru my electrical connections today and search for a problem.
 
I had an 02 Viper here last year. Owner suspected the stator was bad, as it eems to be common. I had the sled out, and aside for it doing some goofy things electrically, it seemed to perform pretty good compared to my SXR700 with no missing at all. Ran normally! After wire rub through was eliminated, the stator was changed. After the change, I took that sled out, and holy crap did it work good!!! Owner was impressed, and said the thing never worked like that as long as he owned it, and he had owned for 2 years. He did say that before he lost his grip heaters, and and other stuff started happening, that his grips "WERE HOT AS HEL"L. Check your stator to see if it's in spec.
 
Good luck doug i no alot of guys that say there srx is not as fast as new.

Here is a trick i use when working on sled.....fast way to check for pull thrus or sticky valves. Remove sevo cover and push on each cable with your finger to see if it will drag the pv up and return when let go.If every thing is clean you will feal the play in the cables when doing this.

.
 
2 things:
when you checked/cleaned your powervalves, did you check the cable slot to see how much wear there was? It could be that you were about to have a pull through, and the pull through happened on the first ride. This happened to me last winter.

could some critter have built a home in your pipes over the summer? Is there someone around with the same pipes as yours that you could swap with the test?

If it's any consolation, I haven't even been out yet, so at least you've been riding!
 
One way to see if power valves not opening is causing performance issues, is to disconnect power to servo then crank the valves open by rotating the servo to pull the cables up tight, lock the servo in position and take it for a blast. With the valves wide open, bottom end may suffer a bit but you will know for sure at high RPM the valves are open. If it runs a lot better you obviously have an issue

Some of the SRX drag racers were doing this back in the day.[obviously clutching accordingly] And there were/are a few SRXs Mod racers running high RPM pipes and using Red Head CDIs for their timing curve and they have no power valve control capability.

JM.02c

Bob
 
well I thank you all for the suggestions.The pipes are actually a different set now that I bought.The other ones had a crack at the flange and all 3 had EGT setups.But every once in a while I would lose the caps that plugged them EGT openings.So got a good set of pipes off viperking.I always plug the exhaust with a tennis ball all summer also to avoid nests.The stator thing can be checked ..maybe stator is the first thing to suspect here.
 
When you rebuilt the engine what parts did you use? Did you make any other changes when you rebuilt? We chased a piston problem for a whole season, window on modded pistons where causing a short cct between exhaust and transfer ports. (should never have missed that one)
Check your valves again!! Open servo manually check that valves are clearing the cylinder edge. Run sled on stand, at around 6500 rpm's servo should open!! You can disconnect the servo and lock it open. Sled will be an absolute dog down low but should give you an idea if its a problem with the valves opening or staying open.
On too the carbs, Check choke plungers and ensure they are releasing, oil pump cable adjustment? Clean carbs.
Next if all this checked out OK I would find someone with a CDI you can try. After that Look at the stator, disconnect all unneeded electrical loads, grip warmers, thumb warmer, lights etc. see if there is any improvement when you run without them.

You will find it but it can be an annoying process.
Good Luck
 
yes jabber it can be a chore but has to be traced.Rebuild had all new OEM parts..but sled was sort of like this last season prior to any rebuild.So like people are saying..possible stator or CDI or even the PV's.But if CDI isn't sending the single after 6500 rpm..I guess the Pv'S won't open....will investigate.Want to get this sloved before the season is over... :o|
 
sideshowBob said:
One way to see if power valves not opening is causing performance issues, is to disconnect power to servo then crank the valves open by rotating the servo to pull the cables up tight, lock the servo in position and take it for a blast. With the valves wide open, bottom end may suffer a bit but you will know for sure at high RPM the valves are open. If it runs a lot better you obviously have an issue

Some of the SRX drag racers were doing this back in the day.[obviously clutching accordingly] And there were/are a few SRXs Mod racers running high RPM pipes and using Red Head CDIs for their timing curve and they have no power valve control capability.

JM.02c

Bob
Click to expand...


X2 - Seems to me this would be a lot easier than mounting a camera underhood... only to find the resolution/vibration issues won't allow you to monitor the servo anyhow.
 
rpm's not to bad.Stock setup it goes to 8500.Butgetting there seems sluggish.I am checking wires under the pad now,where the mouse were.Found another section where 2 bullet like plug ins go together eaten thru and loose,so I taped that up now.Going thru the wires everywhere I can,placing thin foam packing under the main wires that that against the frame to stop any rubbing that can happen also.
 
snomofo said:
X2 - Seems to me this would be a lot easier than mounting a camera underhood... only to find the resolution/vibration issues won't allow you to monitor the servo anyhow.
Click to expand...


if its power valve it will not hit the perfect rpm ..it will be around 8000 maybe a little lower ....
 
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