I just got a free SS440!!...

try tracks usa they have sales on tracks all the time i was told when i ordered mine it was on tuesday night that i will not receive it till the next monday or tuesday ,got it on friday . i would buy my net one off of them no ?'s asked but still check ebay for a used one.
just checked them out they have a camoplast touring track 15x116x.73 for $315
 
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i personally have not doe it but there have been a few site members that have on older phazer and enticers that had the 116" track. kept it in mind for when i have to do one myself.
 
so I took it for a ride in our back field today and even though the field is small and bumpy so I couldn't go fast, it was still a blast. I have fallen in love with this machine. :yam:

In other news a friend of mine has an exciter that he is parting out, and he is going to check out the track for me and see if it is any good. Score!! And if I have done my research right the track should be the same size as the stock one on the SS as long as that track is stock.

Which also makes me wonder, how hard is it to replace the track? Is there a guide anyone can point me towards?
 
i think it is close to the srv . not hard to do just need to take your time . the basic way to do it is remove your hood ,exhaust, belt and then drain the chain case oil. lock the brake on remove the driven clutch ,down below that you will see your speedometer cable assembly , remove the 3 bolts holding it on after that is off remove the little spedo cable if it didn't come out with the housing , it will just pull out. next take off the nut on the shaft ,now go to the chain case side remove the cover , loosen the chain adj. remove the upper and lower sproket nuts, remove the chain and sprokets .now loosen the track adjusters all the way now loosen the slide assembly bolts but do not remove yet , now flip the sled on its side(chain case down),now remove the the bolts and wiggle the slide out . now i think on that sled on your drive shaft there is only 2 drive cog wheels mine has those + 2 alignment wheels but any way next take a block of wood and TAP the drive shaft assembly up to remove the bearing on the spedo. side , now loosen the clamp on the top drive cog and push it down , (might have to move the track around or tap it down ), now loft the shaft up and out . reassemble in reverse order , adjust the chain &track fill the chain case with fresh oil go have fun !!!! just remember to get a new gasket and or black rtv red is good also not blue that is for water pumps and thing like that. you might need a new clamp for the drive cog wheel i think it is just a hose clamp if you need one get a stainless steel one . i hope this helps you and remember this is only a guide .
 
I see everyone giving their two cents, so here is mine. I saw someone said the track will last the year and it likely will. Cracking rubber has no effect on the strength of the track.....the cord in the track and the fiberglass rods running through the track is much more important. The rubber will crack with age anyways. If you decide to replace the clips, make sure the track is aligned properly. You said the clips were gone on one side and that is a sign the track was not aligned properly and the clips on one side wore out. Just my two cents, but since it is in such nice condition it would be nice to put the proper sized track on rather than drilling extra holes which will detract from the collectibility of the sled, although SS's don't have very much collectibility at the moment. It just depends what you want this sled to be in 10 years I guess. Keep the old track too.....I have seen worse tracks go for years on sleds like that.
 
I bought a service manual for my 2001 SRX 700 from Midwest Manuals for about 5 bucks on a CD. Has a lot of good information. They will have a manual on CD for your machine.
 
So, i've been haveing trouble registering this snowmobile, and I finially got everything together and they said that I do not have the right number. I took the Vin # that snowdad was pointing out and they said that it was the wrong number, is there a different number on there, perhaps a serial number somewhere? and where is it?
Thanks
 
L_C99 said:
So, i've been haveing trouble registering this snowmobile, and I finially got everything together and they said that I do not have the right number. I took the Vin # that snowdad was pointing out and they said that it was the wrong number, is there a different number on there, perhaps a serial number somewhere? and where is it?
Thanks


Nope, Dad has it right. Right side of tunnel is where it resides. First three are year and model designation. All after the dash are serial # for that model/year. Serial #'s usually start with 000101 in the US.

I've seen those who register sleds make mistakes in what they think they know. Maybe?????


What are the #'s on the right side of yours???

That info will tell us.

opsled
 
WOW!!! Nice find, And the price was definately right. If it's something your gonna keep for a good long time, invest in a track. If your gonna get rid of it after this or next season.....get a track tool and replacement clips(less $). I'd imajine that a .750 DURASPORT would fit just fine in there. Don't know fer sure though.
If I got her for nothing, I'd keep it and put a new track on it. The older technology in those stock track has NOTHING on the new ones comming out. That alone would be a huge improvement over stock.
 
opsled said:
Nope, Dad has it right. Right side of tunnel is where it resides. First three are year and model designation. All after the dash are serial # for that model/year. Serial #'s usually start with 000101 in the US.

I've seen those who register sleds make mistakes in what they think they know. Maybe?????


What are the #'s on the right side of yours???

That info will tell us.

opsled

The number on the side is 80R-001431
*edit* when you say the numbers start with 000101 you mean that is the first one 000102 is the second and so on, right? when I first read that I thought you ment that they started with 000101 and then other numbers follow that, I got it now.
So the actuall serial number is just the last 6 digits right? I had all 9 digits.
 
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I finnally got it out on the river and the results are in.
On ice with about 2inches of snow covering I got it to about 68 on the speedo. Its got plenty of get up and go, but I had trouble grabing on the ice which is expected. And it ran perfect, purred like a kitten. I'm happy with the results.
Oh and there was a newish Ski-doo (2005ish) out there that was broken down and so I gave him my spare plugs to get him going. They looked like they were the origional ones that came with the sled in 85 lol but it got him going. And the best part is he owns a snowmobile salvage yard around here and now he owes me one :)
 
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So we got DUMPED on today, about a foot. :)
So I took the sled out and got her up to 85!!!! (on the speedo, but who cares lol) This makes me very happy. And still runs like a champ. Didn't even miss once.
 
They are fun great sleds my mechanic has one that he races at ER and i have a 1980 that i built to oval race all motor work i have done on both machines and the other mods to help them perform well the motors may not have the HP but they have a ton of tourque and the motors like to be loaded i will post some pics of the 2 we use to race in the next day or so
 
cool I'd love to see what other people are doing with these sleds. You should post up a list of what you did to it too.
 
Well as far as motor work it is my porting and head specs oil injection is disabled 40mm mikuni some very nice clutching 184 ice picks stock rear skid stock pipe northstar racing skis on this one my mechnic has a thing for the retro yamaha dirt bike colors from the early IT's and YZ's

mine is the red white and black 1980 thanks to jon (82srx500) for the pics of benders vmax4 for the idea of the paint sceme
 
nice, thoes look awesome.
Unfortunatly I have some bad news, I burned a hole in one of the pistons today :( Looks like top engine rebuild will be added to my to do list for this summer.
 


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