Sxviper NO spark


after seat off, loosen up the two rear gastank nuts and look at harness under tank on right side of sled.
 
I have removed the seat, loosen the fuel tank check the harness under the tank and is like new and the continuty is good on every wire ....
Right now im starting to follow the igniton system wiring diagram to check contunuty of every wire, that a can see/follow, what a madness !!!
Thanks
 
Hi, today i search a lot to found my problem but found nothing i have done a lot of continuty test, i go with a elemination process by following the sled wiring diagram everything is ok.
I can start it like 50% of the time but after 1 second of idleing it died always, i think that as soon as the motor catch up, the vibration move/shake the bad connection or the faulty wire but i can not find it !!
I always got voltage before the cdi but like 1 out of 2 after the cdi, i tryed my friends viper s 2004 cdi but the same thing happenned.
Im running out of patience ...
If someone as any idea i will be very happy.
Thanks
 
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Hang in there Phil.

what about bypassing/eliminating the kill switch?

then eliminate/bypass the key switch(although I dont recall ever finding a bad one)

do 1 at a time to eliminate the items, test as before by starting sled and running it.

with you swapping out the cdi tells me your original is fine and some how your depleting the ground causing and or grounding the cdi it to shut off.

Nothing is more frustrating then wiring woes :o|

your absolutely sure the harness under the motor is good??, cause they cause this problem by shorting out the wires on thr bulkhead and it cuts out the spark, just sayin.
 
Philsxviper said:
I just tested my kill switch and it does exactly the opposite of what the manual say, but im still searching trough wire :whine: ....
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Why is the kill switch doing the opposite of what it's suppose to? What is the kill switch doing?
 
I can recheck my undermotor harness, but do i need to open it like i did in the footwell (photo) ?
The killswitch is suposed to have continuty when is pulled up and mine have continuty when pushed in and no continuty when pulled up but the sled start for a second so i think its good .
If the kill switch is unpluged does he act like he was in run position ?
Thanks
 
You have received a lot of good help here, sorry you haven't found the root cause. Don't forget that you may actually have more than one problem. This can make testing more confusing.

I would pull the harness and check continuity on each wire. Obviously all plugs have to be unplugged to do this. It does sound like a grounding issue. I have seen wires look good to sight but have a break inside the insulation. Also the connection of the wires to the plugs themselves can fail. Continuity is your best test, be sure to wiggle the harness as you test each wire. Also corrosion may be involved somewhere that you haven't looked. Make sure you have also tested each component against specs. If it is just slightly out of range don't worry about it. You are looking for something way out of spec. Make sure you test the new stator.

I wouldn't open the harness unless your testing shows a bad wire. Visual inspection is not sufficient in my opinion.
 
I just went back and started reading your post from #1 and when you refer the high/low beam switch made the tach go goofy, thats a sign of the under engine harness being shorted. I would advise you to pull it out and very carefully check it, it only takes a couple strands and you have to look very close to see it sometimes. I have seen them rubbed thru and the wire is completely held together with just the plastic coating and the copper inside burnt in half and if you didnt remove the tape youd never see it.

from looking at the wiring harness diagram, looks like the kill switch completes the ground to the cdi, so unplugging it would be the same as run posistion.
 
ok thanks a lot for your info guys, i will pull the harness from under the motor again and check it very carefully, but yesterday i was having trouble finding where the wire where going so i didnt check all the wire in this harnass part.

I found a scratched wire where i can see the copper, that was right next the temperature sensor on the head but there was no shorting with near metal but i repair it.

I also found that my white plug at the hood hinge, the pin were little bit corroded, so contunuty was hazardous sometime but i clean it and i will put dielectric grease on it, but when i was doing run test the black and the white plug at this place were unpluged.

I go check the harness under the motor and ill come back.

Oh i just found in my manual the real sx viper mountain wiring diagram because i was looking at the one for sx 700/vt 700/sxv 700, now i have the one for mountain only it will help ... lool

Thanks
 
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Hi, i found a wire on the T.P.S. (top left of carb) that as no continuty but i dont have investigate much because i ran out of time for today.
Tomorow i will continue to search the reason but i want a know what kind of job the T.P.S does ?
Thanks
 
Philsxviper said:
ok thanks a lot for your info guys, i will pull the harness from under the motor again and check it very carefully, but yesterday i was having trouble finding where the wire where going so i didnt check all the wire in this harnass part.

I found a scratched wire where i can see the copper, that was right next the temperature sensor on the head but there was no shorting with near metal but i repair it.

I also found that my white plug at the hood hinge, the pin were little bit corroded, so contunuty was hazardous sometime but i clean it and i will put dielectric grease on it, but when i was doing run test the black and the white plug at this place were unpluged.

I go check the harness under the motor and ill come back.

Oh i just found in my manual the real sx viper mountain wiring diagram because i was looking at the one for sx 700/vt 700/sxv 700, now i have the one for mountain only it will help ... lool

Thanks
Click to expand...


As Don mentioned and IMO the best way to check the harness is to pull it completely out , strip it down and visually inspect. A continuity check will not tell you if a wire is shorted unless you're performing a check between the wire and ground. And most times a short to ground is intermittent so unless the wire is shorted at the time you're performing the continuity check between it and ground you'll end up with a false positive.

Also, look for pin holes in the insulation where someone may have probed it with a pin-probe causing a point of entry for moisture/corrosion. Also check the fitment of the male to female terminals to ensure they are tight/making good contact. I use an assortment of male and female terminals from old harnesses and push them into the terminal in question, feeling for resistence indicating a good connection. This is another area where someone could have performed some tests and spread a female terminal with thier test probe creating a problem while trying to fix the original.

You mentioned corrosion at one of the connectors. Most of the underhood connectors are sealed so if you found corrosion, I'd suggest pulling the terminals out of the hardshell connector and inspect where they're crimped to the wire as well. The most common cause for corrosion within a sealed connector is someone back probing the connector creating a point of entry for moisture (or losing the o-ring seal). You can tighten the female terminals by squeezing the rolled edges. Remember, the dielectric grease is just a sealer; it won't help a loose fitting or dirty/corroded terminal.

Good luck.
 
I would have BURNT that sled to the ground a couple of days ago and collected the insurance money.. I would have told them that there was an ELECTRICAL FIRE !!!! I read this post from cover to cover and I just don't have the patience anymore for this stuff... BURN IT !!!! That's my advice !!!!
 
I was doing the pin test as you said to see if it were loose and i make continuty also and found that the red wire to the rectifier sometime was having continuty with frame and no continuty to he's other end but like 1 sec, i was not able to make my meter beep very long when toutching the frame and red wire at the rectifier plug, weird i will continue to serch trough wire ...
My friend was having trouble with his MM 700 (sled died when touching the gas at idle) and finaly found that were bad crank seal he say that i should check mine but i dont think that even worth the check becauze its a spark issue not a running issue ?
Thanks
 
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Philsxviper said:
I was doing the pin test as you said to see if it were loose and i make continuty also and found that the red wire to the rectifier sometime was having continuty with frame and no continuty to he's other end but like 1 sec, i was not able to make my meter beep very long when toutching the frame and red wire at the rectifier plug, weird i will continue to serch trough wire ...
My friend was having trouble with his MM 700 (sled died when touching the gas at idle) and finaly found that were bad crank seal he say that i should check mine but i dont think that even worth the check becauze its a spark issue not a running issue ?
Thanks
Click to expand...


Make sure the wire/circuit you're testing for continuity or short to ground is disconnected at both ends. Sure sounds like a rub through to me.

From what I've read, the rub through issue is so common that even if this isn't your problem, it probably will be sooner or later. There are other places that rub through as well, search on "Viper rub through" and you'll find where others have found them.

Finally, IMO I would not re-route the harness. Fix it (solder, shrink tube/seal the joint, retape and cover with split convolute or heater/vacuum hose) and reinstall into it's original position. There aren't many places to re-route without getting it close to the pipes. Well, at least on a triple piped SRX. Just ask Blue.
 
I just checked everything and, i dont know if its by luck or hazard but its start and its ideling perfectly but when touching the gas small burp it dies when the meter and the light come on but when keeping the throttle it stay on and a red light with a motor appears in the meter .

I just checked the motor code on the meter and its flash 3 time in a row then quit and reappears three time ...

Check the video on youtube for more explanation ...
Youtube account : philsxviper
Key word : yamaha/sx viper
Tittle : sx viper trouble 1-2-3

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zP8_VtirEs&feature=g-upl&context=G2b851d4AUAAAAAAACAA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_y_sKfKZV8&feature=g-upl&context=G2cf791cAUAAAAAAABAA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDh9kJg7bVk&feature=g-upl&context=G27503f1AUAAAAAAAAAA

Thanks
 
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I was alone when i did those test but with help i found that when i give it a littlle gas it will start everytime and run ok if i keep the rpm at 3000 ++ ...

When i dont touch the gas it need a STRONG pull to get her running.

With a very very strong pull alomost like the rope want to break it start right and the light and the meter come on .

So i think that my magneto dont make enough voltage at low rpm because i can rev it and it will go just right if the rpm never see less than 2500-3000.

I dont think its a rub trough, i checked and recheked and everything that i can see its ok.

Maybe my new stator is in the problem ?

My oem yamaha stator with a burned wire on it get 203.5 ohm (18 celcius) for pick up coil and 1.0 ohm for stator and the new RM stator get 187 ohm (4 celcius) for pick up coil and 1.1 for stator (manual say 0.36-0.44 ohm 20 celcius)

Pease help me now we got plenty of snow to ride

Thanks
 
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According to my manual the 3 blinks followed by 1.75 seconds with no blinks, followed by another 3 blinks indicates that your Variable Resister (thumb warmer) is disconnected.

As for the engine dropping out. If you think that the magneto is not putting out enough pwr, I would reduce your load to see what happens.

For instance, I would unplug your headlight, and maybe your taillight also (connector is under the seat). If you disconnect these you'll have more electrical power available for your ignition.

Unfortunately, I don't think that's going to work because if it idles ok with the power you have then as you increase power you should not have a lack of electrical power. It's an easy check so it's worth a try.
 
is this a yamaha stator you installed?-(nevermind, just found out re reading the previous post its a aftermarket one.)

I just watched vidoes again, sure seems like when load control relay kicks in the engine dies, most likely because once the headght and such come on theres not enough power to run everything. Did you check the wires going to voltage regulator, its on the right side under the vented plastic peice by your kness?

IMPORTANT: I noticed the trouble light flashing a code 12, this is improper voltage supply, likely the aftermarket stator is JUNK, get a yamaha one and you will be riding again!
 
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Mine is actually doing a very similar thing. I have a RM Stator Pickup coil with the oem stator. If I start mine up and get it reved right off the bat, then it will run fine as long as it doesn't drop below 2500rpm's. I haven't cleaned my carbs yet and plan on doing that next but I guess it could be a problem with the aftermarket pickup coil that I put on. Guess we both have to keep troubleshooting our problems. :o| Hopefully we can figure this problem out.
 
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