1. * It is not so hard...stanage said:
Get yourself a few feet of new fuel hose to replace all the old fuel hose without the need for joints on the new fuel hose.
Take away your carburetors and airbox/filters when doing this.
Loosen the screws for the plastic cover for the fuel tank.
* Yes, just block of the oil pump hole in the case.
* Premix at 1:40 ---> It is enough !
2. OK.
3. OK.
4. Since you have a PSI single pipe it is OK to have a little bit larger main jet.
( But I do not know what size on the main jet PSI did recomend back in the days !! )
5. OK.
6. OK.
- - - - - - - - - -
After hearing how your engine sound on your videos,I am a little confused ....
That engine does not sound quite healthy...
The engine sounds overloaded and lazy...
( Yes, you can get that result if your jetting is way way wrong )
Have you really the right pretension on your secondary clutch ??
It sure does not sound like it hit 7300 +-250 Rpm
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kev45sk8 said:
kev45sk8 Interesting recipe you've got there !
Start your own thread about your snowmobile with lots of pictures !!
( My English is not perfect either, because I come from Sweden! )
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kev45sk8
New member
i just read your entire thred nice built you have ! come look at mine 
it's nice to see people modding exciters i though i was the only one lol cuz its not a very popular machine here
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?p=580978&posted=1#post580978
it's nice to see people modding exciters i though i was the only one lol cuz its not a very popular machine here http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?p=580978&posted=1#post580978
stanage
Member
kev45sk8 said:i just read your entire thred nice built you have ! come look at mine
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?p=580978&posted=1#post580978
Hey man, thanks for joining. Thats a nice looking sled you built there! You did a great job on the tunnel extension, the paint job, and everything to fit the track in.... that takes a lot of work - I know!
There is a lot of information in this thread and Prankster's Exciter 101 thread, and there're a lot of knowledgeable people that have a lot more talent, know-how, and general all around knowledge than I do. But if you can read it all and take it in, you'll know what things to watch for and take care of before they become a problem.
I'm still having a couple engine issues, but I'll get it figured out soon enough. It's been one thing after another!!
But heres the good news, I've got the parts I need on order, and they'll be here this week, we just got 4 inches and there is 30cm (12inches!!!) OF FRESH SNOW coming in the next 3 days!!!
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stanage
Member
prankster said:Get rid of the oil injection, just make a plate and put in front of the hole, then plug the fuel line or change it to a direct one instead. Use the recommendations that Lasse gave u when mixing your self (much more safe without, works excellent). Besides more space and u save some weight as well
I'm going to probably do this when I get the chance, later this week.
Change the rubber seals on the needle vents, mine were dry and cracked, had to shut the fuel off each time i stop or it wouldn´t start because of flooding..... if u don´t have them om the vm (don´t remember how they look) change the needle vents they are expensive but i think it´s worth it.
I got them for $6.99 each, viton tipped at Sudco. They'll be here later on this week
btw i really enjoyed those vids! Damn the surroundings look really awesome!
That was my buddies cottage we were at, its called McGregor Lake, in Val des Monts. Wicked nice place in the winter, excellent fishing, and even nicer in the summer!
lasse said:
I'll test it out once I get the carb float valves changed, with all the snow were getting I can probably rip up and down the street!!
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"I got them for $6.99 each, viton tipped at Sudco. They'll be here later on this week"
Damn that was cheap... they cost nearly 70$ each here!!!!!
Damn that was cheap... they cost nearly 70$ each here!!!!!
stanage
Member
prankster said:
Really? Cuz I found another spot, they were even cheaper! $5.50 each!
http://rockyswheelsanddeals.com/par...tpl&product_id=130&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1
yeah u got sweet prices over there!!!
Very nice build!
Yes... you have put the spring in A + 2Lasse said:
I am a little confused ....
That engine does not sound quite healthy...
The engine sounds overloaded and lazy...
( Yes, you can get that result if your jetting is way way wrong )
Have you really the right pretension on your secondary clutch ??
It sure does not sound like it hit 7300 +-250 Rpm
stanage said:
...But have you twisted the helix during reassembly ??
If you have not, you have almost zero pretension in the secondary clutch !
To get the right pretension of the spring you must twist the helix during reassembly !
stanage
Member
Lasse said:To get the right pretension of the spring you must twist the helix during reassembly !
Yup, I noticed the ramps and sliders don't line up if you don't put a twist in it. I didn't twist it to an insane amount, simply to the point where the sliders are now able to go up the ramps. Is that right???
dsc577
VIP Member
youre sled sounds like mine did when i had crap in my needle and seat,gas also was flowin out the vent tubes,after i cleaned em i tried blowin threw em and they didnt leak,good prices-viton ones are 17.99 here-should have a high pich tingy sound when carbs are all set right,engine will be eager to rev,course lasse's right,motor should hit 72 -7300 rpm at least,then adj clutching to 7500 rpm,sounds to me like you got secondary twist right,should take a lot of pressure to push down helix and install circlip also
stanage
Member
Well, Im really hoping those needles fix the flooding on the mag side... or else Im out of ideas, other than rebuilding the fuel pump...dsc577 said:
Hmmm, the mag side carb doesn't do that... gas just comes out the exhaust instead!?dsc577 said:
I know what that sounds like!! I've got an 89 Honda CR250 that sounds like a angry beast!dsc577 said:
I think you mean 7750rpm, with the PSI pipe. Or atleast that's what Ive seen posted on the PSI specs.dsc577 said:
That's re-assuring! And yes, it took quite a bit of force to push down the sheave and get the circlip in there... actually thanks for the reminder - Im going to replace that clip!!! I read on here of someone who re-used the old one too much and it busted on them, and it turned out to be very nasty!dsc577 said:
stanage
Member
It's ALIVE!!! Changed the float needle valves and it's a completely different beast now! I'm going riding tmrw and will take some video! I went down the street and scared myself shitless! It's way fast!
hehe glad to hear that had the same feeling when i got my jetting to work properly.
had the same feeling when i got my jetting to work properly.
dsc577
VIP Member
good deal!
Good !
stanage
Member
Sweet Mother of Exciter!
Yup, problem solved. I did a few things really...
I put the same POD filter on the mag side, that I already had on the PTO. It'll rub against the steering column, but oh well. Whatever...
Changed the needle valves and washers and adjusted the sh*t out of the float height to 17mm. Huge improvement overall with these... I can't even describe. Its got great idle now, starts first pull every time, sounds great!! and goes like stink!!!
I cut the hose between the carb bowl and the carb bell-powerjet, and put a ball bearing in the tubing going to the bell. I also removed the screw in the bowl, blocking the power jet hole and put some Moto-seal in there and put the screw back, because it was leaking slightly. Now theres no way for any gas to get to the bell.
After a couple runs and plug chops, my carbs are running 330PTO, 340MAG Needle clips are middle-PTO, top-MAG, pilots are 42.5(way too rich today, but I don't have 40's YET)
I was able to go 110KM/h on heavy wet snow!
Both plugs show a dark chocolate brown color, so if anything I will lean it out slightly with 40 pilots and bring the needle down on the PTO side and remove the shim from under the needle on the MAG side.
Unfortunately I had left the sec. clutch on B2, which gave a horrible bog down low sometimes, until I switched to A2 - but that wasn't until I broke the rear suspension shaft that holds the two upper idlers!? Thank god it's only 27$ to replace that shaft.
Somehow the shaft broke off around one of the bolts that holds that shaft onto my homemade drop brackets. I guess the shaft was getting old.
Its so much fun to finally have some speed to play with! I've got some great video, that I'll put up once I get a chance to edit it a bit. Even though I only got to ride around for about an hour today, I had a wicked fun time. The exciter is FINALLY exciting!
Yup, problem solved. I did a few things really...
I put the same POD filter on the mag side, that I already had on the PTO. It'll rub against the steering column, but oh well. Whatever...
Changed the needle valves and washers and adjusted the sh*t out of the float height to 17mm. Huge improvement overall with these... I can't even describe. Its got great idle now, starts first pull every time, sounds great!! and goes like stink!!!
I cut the hose between the carb bowl and the carb bell-powerjet, and put a ball bearing in the tubing going to the bell. I also removed the screw in the bowl, blocking the power jet hole and put some Moto-seal in there and put the screw back, because it was leaking slightly. Now theres no way for any gas to get to the bell.
After a couple runs and plug chops, my carbs are running 330PTO, 340MAG Needle clips are middle-PTO, top-MAG, pilots are 42.5(way too rich today, but I don't have 40's YET)
I was able to go 110KM/h on heavy wet snow!
Both plugs show a dark chocolate brown color, so if anything I will lean it out slightly with 40 pilots and bring the needle down on the PTO side and remove the shim from under the needle on the MAG side.
Unfortunately I had left the sec. clutch on B2, which gave a horrible bog down low sometimes, until I switched to A2 - but that wasn't until I broke the rear suspension shaft that holds the two upper idlers!? Thank god it's only 27$ to replace that shaft.
Somehow the shaft broke off around one of the bolts that holds that shaft onto my homemade drop brackets. I guess the shaft was getting old.
Its so much fun to finally have some speed to play with! I've got some great video, that I'll put up once I get a chance to edit it a bit. Even though I only got to ride around for about an hour today, I had a wicked fun time. The exciter is FINALLY exciting!
i see 1988 exciter microfiche lists needle as part #84m 14116 0700.
1989 changes to 239 14116 68 00 are these the same part with just a new numbering system?
1989 changes to 239 14116 68 00 are these the same part with just a new numbering system?
stanage
Member
BKACHE said:
Yamaha updated the jetting from 88 to 89, and if you take a close look at the microfiche, they aren't using the updated jetting. The main jet should not be in the bowl, it should at the end of the nedle jet.
I would take Lasse's recommendations somewhere in this thread of the exiter 101 thread, and follow them for your carb setup.
Two different part numbers would tell me two different needles. The "68" in the needle number refers to the actual needle taper. I am looking for some "82" (239 14116 82 00) needles, as these are apparently copies of the Legendary PSI needles that were recommended for the single PSI pipe.
The needle with "68" is a 6FL68 Mikuni needle
The needle with "82" is a 6FL82 Mikuni needle, copied after PSI's needle.