89 Exciter Transformation!

dsc577 said:
theres a bushing on the backside of clutch helix fits yhrew,replace or use best one,if its chewed up forget it,---QUOTE]

I think I saw it, it's brass colored right? I haven't cleaned the other clutch yet, but the one I had decided on using looks really good - only has 1 groove in it. I'll take a pic later to show you. I think it looks decent, but I'll compare with the other one tonight.
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theres brass ones in the middle,thats the ones to check the wobble when you put the clutch halves together and find the two that fit best,the other bushing is on the back side,the outer part of the helix slides on it,its held in with 3 screws and is easy to replace and not that spendy,if its chewed up,very common,the clutch will bind,i also spray the helix with comet clutch lube,good stuff,holds up well,this basically is the reason they moved the helix to the outside on newer ones but if you take care of it you can still get good backshift,the old fix was coated helixes you can still get for 200 bucks,
 
Do Not Use !

I should not use the below helix :




...the sliding surfaces does not look OK to me !

:2strokes:
 
stanage said:
I finally got around to taking apart my two secondary clutches,
and have the following:

Secondary Clutch # 1.
This clutch has two shims installed between the clutch sheaves.
So Im going to keep that for use with my new 89L belt.
The helix is slightly machined at the tip of the ramp,
and the back of it seems to have been machined as well.
The spring is color coded: Black/White
This clutch spring was positioned: B-3.
This clutch performs well, and is what I currently use.

Secondary Clutch # 2.
This clutch had no shims installed between the clutch sheaves.
The helix is stock, not machined in any way.
The spring is color coded: Black/Pink
Setting on this was A-2


Any recommendations ?

I was thinking the following combination:
* Spring in A-2 (As per Lasse's recommendations)
* Black/White spring
* Non-machined Helix
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* Rub some steel wool with a drop of oil on the sliding surfaces of the helix that you are going to use.
* Get 3 new sliding shoes.
* New 89L belt
* At least 2 shims between the clutch sheaves,
If it not enough you must add some more shims so you achieve this :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNVv-jOzaIE
* Mix and match your secondary clutch halves so that you get one with the least play.

:2strokes:
 
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dsc577 said:
1. Black/White spring and A-2 should pull at least 7200 rpm,
if not move it to B-2.
2. I also seeing you have two secondary clutches,
notice side wobble when you put the two together empty,
use the two that fit tightest.
Click to expand...
1. Yes.
2. Yes.

:2strokes:
 
Update! I'm a moron!

So, get this - I went to the yami dealership to get some secondary clutch buttons. Picked up six of them and then I started talking to the guys. Well it must have been close to closing time, when their head mechanic walks out! This guy has been working on yams for over 25 years and is a clutching pro. So I tell him my story , and he proceeds to tell me I need bigger main jets!!! I'm waaaay too lean in the 3/4 to WOT range, which makes total sense!!! I can only operate the throttle at most 1/2 of it's range , which means that 3/4 to WOT isn't right... Plus with the p&p, and the psi pipe I should be atleast running 380 mains and working my way down to something like 360 or 350... I'd read so much about reading sparkplugs, but never actually taken the time to do a plug chop at WOT because WOT doesn't work!?!?!? Ignore is bliss... I'm so lean in the top end i'm BOGGING when I pin it. So tmrw I start looking for 390, 380 , 360 and possibly 400 main jets...

As for my secondary clutch I took out the machined helix and put in the stock one with two washers instead of the machined helix, due to damage that Lasse pointed out, I sanded the helix ramps lightly with 400 grit, and got 7/8 of the grooves and imperfections out. The helix slides extremely well now. Upon further inspection its apparent the helix ramp tip was damaged from metal to metal contact when the buttons wore out at some point in the far past. The stock helix looks really good after sanding!
 
stanage said:
I went to the Yamaha dealership and started talking to the guys, when their head mechanic walks out!
So I tell him my story, and he proceeds to tell me I need bigger main jets!!!
I'm waaaay too lean in the 3/4 to WOT range, which makes total sense!!!
I can only operate the throttle at most 1/2 of it's range , which means that 3/4 to WOT isn't right... Plus with the p&p, and the PSI-pipe I should be atleast running 380 mains and working my way down to something like 360 or 350...
I'd read so much about reading sparkplugs,
but never actually taken the time to do a plug chop at WOT because WOT doesn't work!?!?!?
Ignore is bliss...
I'm so lean in the top end i'm BOGGING when I pin it.
So tmrw I start looking for 390, 380 , 360 and possibly 400 main jets...
Click to expand...
We have not talked about your jetting before...
But it is a known fact that the Exciter-I is known for having problems with lean jetting, especially in the 50-100% throttle opening
---> that is why Yamaha insists on using the 6FL68 needles on stock engines !
An even better solution is to use the legendary PSI needles but they are discontinued since long long time back and are very rare.

....Adding a aftermarket single pipe or even worse twin pipes you deffinitly must do something major jetting changing to get it to work without burndown !!

An easy way to determind if your jetting is to lean when you running WOT is to put on the choke plunger.
If the engine is running better ---> You are to lean on the main jets.

:2strokes:
 
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Lasse said:
We have not talked about your jetting before...
But it is a known fact that the Exciter-I is known for having problems with lean jetting, especially in the 50-100% throttle opening
---> that is why Yamaha insists on using the 6FL68 needles on stock engines !
An even better solution is to use the legendary PSI needles but they are discontinued since long long time back and are very rare.

....Adding a aftermarket single pipe or even worse twin pipes you deffinitly must do something major jetting changing to get it to work without burndown !!

An easy way to determind if your jetting is to lean when you running WOT is to put on the choke plunger.
If the engine is running better ---> You are to lean on the main jets.

:2strokes:
Click to expand...

Lasse, just wanted to thank you again for all the great advice. Your knowledge is invaluable. Thanks
;)!
 
DITTO!!!! I echo Monte's appreciation for your excellent knowledge and helpful tips! I went out and got 2 sets of main jets in the following sizes,350, 360, 370, 380, 390 and 400, so I can figure out what main jet to use on my P&P, PSI piped stock bore engine. I'm thinking 360PTO, 370MAG... but I'll start at 380 and work my way down.

Also here are some pics of the stock/unmachined helix I cleaned up - looks top notch!

IMG_1766.jpg


IMG_1764.jpg


IMG_1774-1.jpg


And here is the sliding sheave with new buttons.




While I was looking at my mains yesterday I took a look to confirm my powerjets were sealed off, one seems to be leaking, as I saw mixed gas in the tubing going up to the carb bell... (not a lot) so I'll be taking that off and re-sealing it properly. Thats it for now!
 
Take a look at how I blocked my powerjet circuit. I used set screws and vacuum caps to get rid of all the hoses. I still haven't gotten to ride it, but hasn't leaked yet.
 
ever look at the dynoport results or read the psi tuning inst,?q-6 or q-8 nozzles,6fl82 needles are a yamaha copy of psi.need to richen up the midrange to
 
No I hadn't seen those I guess, which I weird, but I just read it and I'll check what's in mine. But I really want to thank you for giving me the needle number, I haven't been able to find that anywhere!!!

I'll be doing a lot of testing this weekend!
 
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OK - so I did a bit of research! I found a web site where someone gives out the part number 239-14116-82-00, sooooo

The 6FL68 needle part number is 239-14116-68-00

does it make sense that the 6FL82 needle is 239-14116-82-00 ?????

If so, I'm going to try and find two, to replace my 6FL68's.

Also, does anyone have the part numbers for the q-6 and q-8 nozzles??? Or more specifically, what type of Needle jet we use?

I found a web site that seems to have all the needle jets in stock,

VM:http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/VM26-VM44_Spigot_Mount_Parts_W192C1420.cfm

TMX:http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Mikuni_TMX_Parts_W305C1642.cfm
TM:http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Mikuni_TM_Parts_W188C1652.cfm
 
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found em in the vm link,description # 11, 166(480)series 166-q-6 item#12072
166-q-8 item#12073
and yea those part # for needles are correct
 
Any Parts Unlimited dealer will have access to those nozzles at a good price. I think they also have a 6fl14 needle or something like that. I picked up a set, but haven't used them due to having acquired some 68's. Any 6fl series needle will flow in a similar fashion, but length will vary. Thus changing mid circuit timing. I was going to test them as the 14 was shorter and should flow more sooner. Still no snow though.
 
So, last night I put a 45 pilot instead of a 42.5 in the mag side carb, and it already sounds better. I also put 380 mains, but i cant really test that till this aft. Also , the new 89l belt seems to fit perfectly in the primary and my belt deflection is almost dead on, as I can turn the track by hand while the machine is running but it takes quite a bit of effort - would I be better off with 1 shim or 3 to make it easier? I'm thining the belt isn't high enough on the secondary, if it were higher, the belt would be tighter and the track would move easier on the stand?? Therefore deflection would be right?
 
Maybe I missed something? Why are you running staggered jetting? Is it a pod filter issue? I'm running 45 pilots in mine as well. 42.5 gave me a hanging idle and I'm not a big fan of it being only 5/8 of a turn out to start with. I think you are surely on the right track.

Belt should ride right about even with the top of the secondary. Just the slightest track creep is normal on the stand, but you really shouldn't be judging it by that. An actual center to center measurement and belt deflection measurement is better. I think you just gave me an idea for a how to video. lol
 
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Great idea monte:) give us some video! I think u are on the right track with your jetting now stanage, wouldn´t be suprised if 330 would be close..... shoot up some video stan so i can enjoy your progress!
 
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