Project: 04 Viper S

I have the engine broken in and running well. The belt is also adjusted. I must say for a sled with 8400 miles, that went back together with orig pistons and cylinders this thing is quiet! It starts, idles, and runs smooth! I am impressed.
IMG_1710_zpsfbc85164.jpg

:2strokes:
 
jplum said:
Is the doo suspension and new track installed yet...getting down to crunch time! :letitsnow
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No, I forgot my grinder at work today. I need it to remove the rivets on the front reinforcement plate to move it.
I did grab a new speedo side bearing on the way home today. Yesterday I changed the chain side bearing/seal.
Tomorrow I will move the plates, drill the holes and test fit the susp.
 
its not to bad a install . just make sure you measure twice and drill once. lol. You will love the plush ride and better weight transfer
 
J_hubbs said:
No, I forgot my grinder at work today. I need it to remove the rivets on the front reinforcement plate to move it.
I did grab a new speedo side bearing on the way home today. Yesterday I changed the chain side bearing/seal.
Tomorrow I will move the plates, drill the holes and test fit the susp.
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Upside to the rain / warm weather this weekend means you won't burn as much propane in the garage installing the suspension and there is a fantastic looking cold front w/ lake effect snow coming right behind it…just in time for the big trip! :letitsnow
 
There are threads that cover the Sc10-3 install but here is a quick overview of it.
Place a tunnel washer directly in front of the factory rear mount hole. That is the position of the new rear mount.
IMG_1727_zps3c7f231f.jpg

Grind the rivets off of the front skid mount plate and remove it.
IMG_1728_zps748ffb58.jpg

Set the plate on the cooler lip 23.5" from the new rear mount hole (Center to Center)
IMG_1729_zpsad439410.jpg

Use a ratchet strap to bring the skid to 23.5" and install.
I used CB Performance drop plates in the upper mount hole. I think these are a must in a Viper to get ski pressure. I dont think they are needed in a SRX.
Here is the finished product: I think it looks and sits just right!
IMG_1751_zps3d8f6843.jpg


Benefits of the Doo susp: Lighter, stronger, more simple design, more travel. All skids with the HPG shocks are rebuild able (they are KYB shocks with purple paint on them). Sc10-2 and 3 shocks are interchangeable. The bushings are cheaper and fewer of them when rebuilding.
I also believe a sc2 can be converted to a 3 by changing the rear arm (longer) and adding the double pull rods (by the rear shock) that couple the front and rear.
:bling:
IMG_1750_zpscb56c961.jpg
 
I’m not riding behind you till you double the length of that snow flap! When you stretch in next year will you buy a new skid (renegade or summit) or will you get the bolt on extensions? :letitsnow
 
jplum said:
I’m not riding behind you till you double the length of that snow flap! When you stretch in next year will you buy a new skid (renegade or summit) or will you get the bolt on extensions? :letitsnow
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Probably the tip up extensions to 144". Yeah it might have some roost. I think an Apex or Nytro flap is longer.
 
I did see a few different #s on the other forums. The 23.5" is from a few other threads on TY. It was also used with the CB drop brackets. Since the 23.5 is measured linear down the inside of the tunnel it is probably more like 24" if you measure CTC of the drop bracket hole and the front mounting hole. I have an 02 Doo zx in the trailer i could go doublecheck when I get time.
 
J_hubbs said:
Somthing like this, but a touch lower.
IMG_1413.jpg
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Did you end up ditching the RX1 seat? I would like to do this mod to my 04 Viper S. Love my Viper and have it dialed in just right but could use some seat height for my long legs. Any additional help or tips on the seat mod would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Well here is what I came up with. It is approx 3.5" taller than the stock seat.
image(3).jpgimage(4).jpgimage(5).jpg
I un-stapled the front of the seat. Then trimmed, with a sawzall, the plastic bottom and foam. I took approx 4-5" off. I cant remember exactly, but it seemed like I cut on a faint mold line. Then Re-stapled the front. I dont have a pic now but the front of the seat uses two fingers that stick out to slide under somthing on the RX1. I made a hoop out of 1/8" x 1.25" strap and mounted it to the fuel tank mounting bolts. The rear is made from aluminum tube that I welded a frame for. The flat piece under the tail light is what the rear sits on (just like the RX1 would), and it is held down with turnbuckles as the factory RX1 seat is also. It is different, either you love it or hate it!!!;)!
 
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