I got it... You mean on startup... I thought you were talking about cable slack... I was really out of it last night, sorry
Ok.. Feel dumb asking... But ...those are the n the boot correct? And how do you repair them, or do you just flgrt new wires?
mile9c1
New member
I think you unscrew the old plug boots. If you buy NGK boots as replacements I think they twist on or push straight on (and are held onto the wires with a zip tie). There's a few threads on the subject.
did you first loosen up the throttle cable and test sled??
sometimes when people get frustrated they start changing out items that dont need replacing in a panic. plug boots can easily be tested for resistance with a simple multi meter, and they are good with 5k resistance.
I would do things in steps, relax.....take a breath, youll be fine to go riding.
Its the throttle cable thats too tight by the sounds of it, take a 10mm wrench and loosen up the jam nut on carb rack, then turn the cable adjuster down a couple turns, it needs a good amount of slack.
Also, make sure over by the top hose going to coolant bottle youll see some wires, check and make sure the 2 wires coming from the carb switch are plugged in the correct way, they only fit 1 way so theres no mistake to be made.
ride sled down the road and then report back.
sometimes when people get frustrated they start changing out items that dont need replacing in a panic. plug boots can easily be tested for resistance with a simple multi meter, and they are good with 5k resistance.
I would do things in steps, relax.....take a breath, youll be fine to go riding.
Its the throttle cable thats too tight by the sounds of it, take a 10mm wrench and loosen up the jam nut on carb rack, then turn the cable adjuster down a couple turns, it needs a good amount of slack.
Also, make sure over by the top hose going to coolant bottle youll see some wires, check and make sure the 2 wires coming from the carb switch are plugged in the correct way, they only fit 1 way so theres no mistake to be made.
ride sled down the road and then report back.
mile9c1
New member
Can you test the resistance of a plug boot without removing the wire from the boot? I plan to replace mine either way because they're cheap (and easy to reach).
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Any price break for multiple sleds? Might have to stuff 5 into a 4 place trailer and head for Ohio next fall!
FJViper
New member
Unscrew the boot from the cable. a test lead at each end, meter on ohms setting. If they're original oem boots, chances are they're outa spec. Snip a little off of each wire end before you screw the new boot on. Make sure you measure each cable to see how much you can cut off BEFORE you cut em'. The MAG cable is short to begin with. I always use a little electrical jelly before screwing the bots on. Keeps corrosion out and boot goes on a little easier.
You are 100% correct.. I see my issue, then search, then during that search on my issue I see the same symptoms and 10 other fixes.. then panic .. Im terrible at doing that and overreacting.. I guess its just the way I have always seen things.. If you look for the worst case scenario, you wont be as disappointed.. :/
That being said.. I loosened up the throttle cable quite a bit 3-4 full turns, took it for a spin, and other than the typical slow going, once I blipped the throttle a few times, and it warmed up a bit, it seemed to run great!
The wires from the throttle side are still plugged into the wires from the carb side ( via a butt connector )
Just for preventative measures I would like to put new NGK caps on, just for the fact one looks a little beat up on the inside and the other two dont really "click" onto the spark plug.. and for $10, it seems reasonable and easy enough to do . Do you guys have a part #? I called the dealer.. The legitimate Yamaha dealer and he said there are 2 different styles he has in the NGKs
Also once the sled is warm, what should idle RPM be at? I think mine is around 1200
Thanks so much guys.. All these little issues really make me want to learn how to do things the right way and for myself.. I've never been one to just dive into something , like alot of you guys, because I'm the kind of person who doesn't try to dive into something, when in all honesty , I don't have a clue what I'm doing lol . .So I figure thats why I would rather not break it ( more ) than it already is, and possibly SAVE myself money by letting a mechanic do it..
Also is there a good stator how to in here? Just in case I have to change it in the future, or how to clean the flywheel/stator? Im just trying to build a knowing, right now so later I can just refer back to this thread..
Any additives I should be adding to our already crap gas ( seafoam/sta bil , octane boost )? I try to run BP 93 as much as possible , otherwise if im on the trail, I usually fill up at Holiday on 91, as its the best they have
And once again... Thank you guys so so so so much..
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OK, so what SHOULD the rpms be set at? and what would be the cause/need for bowl screws? Is this something I can tweak myself, or if I raise the idle ( per the screw on the rail ) will it mess things up, throw carbs out of sync etc?
I will always run premium, and Holiday and BP seem to be the best in my area.. But there is only one gas station that carries 93, and thats a 30 minute car ride for me if I decide to go get 10 gallons.. otherwise its always 91
We also have a station that sells 110 octane race gas, but its leaded.. Would adding a gallon to a full tank each time do or help anything? Seeing as how octane booster seems to only raise your octane 2-3 points ?
I will always run premium, and Holiday and BP seem to be the best in my area.. But there is only one gas station that carries 93, and thats a 30 minute car ride for me if I decide to go get 10 gallons.. otherwise its always 91
We also have a station that sells 110 octane race gas, but its leaded.. Would adding a gallon to a full tank each time do or help anything? Seeing as how octane booster seems to only raise your octane 2-3 points ?
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/resistor_covers.pdf
Link to NGK explanation of what letters/numbers mean. The KEY things are the B (size of plug) 5 k resistance. I went to THREE different "sled" shops that all tried selling me 10 k resistors because "that's what every body buys" (one of which was a YAMAHA DEALER!) found what I needed at a lawn mower/chainsaw shop......FOR A BETTER PRICE EVEN!
Link to NGK explanation of what letters/numbers mean. The KEY things are the B (size of plug) 5 k resistance. I went to THREE different "sled" shops that all tried selling me 10 k resistors because "that's what every body buys" (one of which was a YAMAHA DEALER!) found what I needed at a lawn mower/chainsaw shop......FOR A BETTER PRICE EVEN!
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Great, thank you! So Im basically looking for anything "LB05" Does the next number mean anything E/F?
So far I see 2 that would work then
LB05E
LB05EP
So far I see 2 that would work then
LB05E
LB05EP
mile9c1
New member
I plan to purchase the TB05EMA caps, but others have reported that the TB05EM's are fine. The L's are the plastic ones, no? The factory idle spec is around 1500-1700 RPM.
Backwoods M Max
New member
The problem that you can run into setting the idle is that depending on belt drag you can over set it, then when your coasting the belt pushing the clutch will cause idle hang. My sled will idle just barely over 1000 with the belt dragging, but then when I'm in a descent riding the brake the engine won't idle hang because of belt push. If you want to see what your bare idle is, push in the secondary and push the belt down into the open sheaves. This will take the drag off the primary. You may be surprised what of does with the belt off the primary.
E/ if you want the metal nipple on the end of the spark plug F/ if you unscrew it and cap right on the spark plug threads
If your belt is dragging down the idle speed then you are running way too tight belt deflection causing that and it would burn the inside of the belt cloth on the primary sheave sleeve. By running the belt too tight or too high up in the secondary your effectively making the belt too short, and this would or could drag down your idle speed. If the correct deflection is set, it doesnt effect the idle speed because its not dragging the stationary sheave sleeve.
thanks guys.. Ill have to look at the clutch a bit more.. I was thinking about getting a new primary and a Hauck #3 kit for it at the end of the season.. Hauck powersports is about 1 hour away from me, and they said they would have done the primary , clutch kit, full diagnosis dump the fuel, clean and sync the carbs for $650 and thats including the $450 in the used primary and clutch kit.. It would be nice to have a TRUE yamaha tech take my sled , check everything over, and do it right..
I think you can find someone here that could give it a look see and and help YOU be the yamaha tech you're lookin for. I'm sure you live close enough to TY'rs that paying them for thier time could gain you a lot of skills to keep both sleds dependable and perform as they should - it's just nuts and bolts. Or use the Hauck deal which sounds fair as well and maybe pick his tech's brain when picking it up while providing a nice tip.
Invest in a genuine manual for both sleds, take notes from your searches on TY, ask away.
Maybe I picked the wrong color and I didn't mean to make light of your taking it in the shorts. My suggestion that you need carb screws is based on someone using a worn-out screw driver to remove the float bowl screws. I've done it over the years and it's easy to bugger them up. Still not a big deal 'cause they're easily removed and replaced with set screws if need be.
I think the idle should be 1600-1800 but don't quote me. Some have an issue with idle hang after a decel and turn it down (after opening the pilots) to help bring the idle down when coming to a stop. As others have suggested, your clutch squeal could be effecting your idle too.
Big help this thread was.. ALl I want is this to be running top notch.. I really like yamaha and am interested in buying a 2011 nytro at the dealer for 6500 with 1800 miles on it.. I just wish I would have had the knowledge to do my own work back in the day, so this stuff would be a breeze now.. Seems my old age makes it harder to learn lol
Well after the constant problems with this sled, I thought I would post this link as well... There is a vid on page 3, but this is my ongoing disaster
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/...w-idle-bogging-and-now-different-exhaust-tone
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/...w-idle-bogging-and-now-different-exhaust-tone