Push the throttle in just a bit.
I got it... You mean on startup... I thought you were talking about cable slack... I was really out of it last night, sorry

Push the throttle in just a bit.
I'd try replacing the spark plug caps first, cheap and easy.
wow, I need to raise my prices. I do a "first ride check up" for the season for $125, thats clean the carbs,clean the clutchs,adjust chain tension, check track tension and slide condition, check all fluids and grease up sled.......
Unscrew the boot from the cable. a test lead at each end, meter on ohms setting. If they're original oem boots, chances are they're outa spec. Snip a little off of each wire end before you screw the new boot on. Make sure you measure each cable to see how much you can cut off BEFORE you cut em'. The MAG cable is short to begin with. I always use a little electrical jelly before screwing the bots on. Keeps corrosion out and boot goes on a little easier.Can you test the resistance of a plug boot without removing the wire from the boot? I plan to replace mine either way because they're cheap (and easy to reach).
did you first loosen up the throttle cable and test sled??
sometimes when people get frustrated they start changing out items that dont need replacing in a panic. plug boots can easily be tested for resistance with a simple multi meter, and they are good with 5k resistance.
I would do things in steps, relax.....take a breath, youll be fine to go riding.
Its the throttle cable thats too tight by the sounds of it, take a 10mm wrench and loosen up the jam nut on carb rack, then turn the cable adjuster down a couple turns, it needs a good amount of slack.
Also, make sure over by the top hose going to coolant bottle youll see some wires, check and make sure the 2 wires coming from the carb switch are plugged in the correct way, they only fit 1 way so theres no mistake to be made.
ride sled down the road and then report back.
snip
Also once the sled is warm, what should idle RPM be at? I think mine is around 1200
That is a bet low and unless the guy that adjusted it knows about idle hang, it wasn't adjusted properly. I would be suspect of any of the claimed work being done and you'll probably find next year that you need new bowl screws ;>)
Thanks so much guys.. All these little issues really make me want to learn how to do things the right way and for myself.. I've never been one to just dive into something , like alot of you guys, because I'm the kind of person who doesn't try to dive into something, when in all honesty , I don't have a clue what I'm doing lol . .So I figure thats why I would rather not break it ( more ) than it already is, and possibly SAVE myself money by letting a mechanic do it..
Being cautious isn't a bad thing, but when you figure the monkey that did the work probably knows less about your sled than you do now just reading here for an hour - damn the torpedos and full stream ahead!
Also is there a good stator how to in here? Just in case I have to change it in the future, or how to clean the flywheel/stator? Im just trying to build a knowing, right now so later I can just refer back to this thread..
Any additives I should be adding to our already crap gas ( seafoam/sta bil , octane boost )? I try to run BP 93 as much as possible , otherwise if im on the trail, I usually fill up at Holiday on 91, as its the best they have
If you search rusty stator you should find what you need. Obtaining a service manual will make things a lot easier and will save you time having to wait for an answer to a question about specs. I would also recommend reading about cooling issues and thier related fixes via needle changes, opticool gasket and such. In the mean time, run the best fuel you can from high volume stations and if in dought, buy some octane boost and dump a half can per tankfull. Note: I would apply this advice to the Viper. As for the SX - The redhead doesn't have the cooling issues and I think they run fine on 87 or what ever is recommended. You're probably wasting money using anything higher.
I noticed they charged some $23.00 in state taxes. Is labor taxable in Minn?
Great, thank you! So Im basically looking for anything "LB05" Does the next number mean anything E/F?
So far I see 2 that would work then
LB05E
LB05EP
The problem that you can run into setting the idle is that depending on belt drag you can over set it, then when your coasting the belt pushing the clutch will cause idle hang. My sled will idle just barely over 1000 with the belt dragging, but then when I'm in a descent riding the brake the engine won't idle hang because of belt push. If you want to see what your bare idle is, push in the secondary and push the belt down into the open sheaves. This will take the drag off the primary. You may be surprised what of does with the belt off the primary.
thanks guys.. Ill have to look at the clutch a bit more.. I was thinking about getting a new primary and a Hauck #3 kit for it at the end of the season.. Hauck powersports is about 1 hour away from me, and they said they would have done the primary , clutch kit, full diagnosis dump the fuel, clean and sync the carbs for $650 and thats including the $450 in the used primary and clutch kit.. It would be nice to have a TRUE yamaha tech take my sled , check everything over, and do it right..