Cooper0809
New member
Then I used the piece where the rear axle slides through as a template to mark the holes with a punch. I used this type of punch because it's exactly 1/4" with the punch mark in the center so it's spot on every time. A regular punch will work fine but make sure it's dead center.
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Cooper0809
New member
The holes in the rail are almost a 1/4" but not quite. So I just re-drilled them to fit 1/4" hardware.
I bought 1/4"x1" bolts, washers, and lock nuts for about $10.00 at the hardware store....ya they'll probably rust out quicker
But it won't be hard to replace when they do.
I bought 1" bolts, but you could get away with 3/4" length.
They were they same price so I went with 1"
I bought 1/4"x1" bolts, washers, and lock nuts for about $10.00 at the hardware store....ya they'll probably rust out quicker
But it won't be hard to replace when they do.
I bought 1" bolts, but you could get away with 3/4" length.
They were they same price so I went with 1"
Cooper0809
New member
Well I've got the set made now, cleaned them all up. Thinking I'm going to paint them just not sure how the paint will hold up in the snow....but I guess paint will be better than rust!
If anybody has suggestions on paint let me know.
I'm not sure where the back of the skid will end up under the tunnel, so I'm Gona hold off on the tunnel extension for now.
I might end up buying a new style snow flap which is a lot stiffer than the stock flap.
I wouldn't mind being able to put a 10ltr gas can on the back though...
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If anybody has suggestions on paint let me know.
I'm not sure where the back of the skid will end up under the tunnel, so I'm Gona hold off on the tunnel extension for now.
I might end up buying a new style snow flap which is a lot stiffer than the stock flap.
I wouldn't mind being able to put a 10ltr gas can on the back though...
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Cooper0809
New member
YooperWoods
New member
Looks good, nice work!
Cooper0809
New member
I managed to get a bit more done today. Because the extensions are 1/4" thick and placed on the outside of the rails I had to make up for the lenght of the collar that was lost and to make sure the rear wheels aren't sticking out too far so I had cut 1/4" off each outside collar and placed them inside the rails as you'll see in picture below.
Been working back n forth between the 2 sleds as I'm receiving parts for them.
Had to bite the bullet and order drivers from yamaha....$165, ya it hurts! Lol
Been working back n forth between the 2 sleds as I'm receiving parts for them.
Had to bite the bullet and order drivers from yamaha....$165, ya it hurts! Lol
Cooper0809
New member
Finally got my drivers! Now let's see if I can finish this little project...
These things are tough to get on the shaft!! I had to pound them on with a rubber mallet....probably shouldn't have but had no press of any kind.
My track is open every other window, I was also thinking about using a dremel to cut open the other windows...is this a good idea or no? I'm guessing the sliders will wear faster if I leave it.
These things are tough to get on the shaft!! I had to pound them on with a rubber mallet....probably shouldn't have but had no press of any kind.
My track is open every other window, I was also thinking about using a dremel to cut open the other windows...is this a good idea or no? I'm guessing the sliders will wear faster if I leave it.
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Cooper0809
New member
Well, between working on my sled and my buddies sled this weekend I managed to get the skid and track back in, and shorten the seat. I took a 9" chunk out of the seat. Now I still need to do the small tunnel extension, front end widening kit & get some 8" wide kimpex ski skins and I should be able to handle the deep stuff a lot better this year.
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Maim
Super Moderator
open every window and clip it for less resistance. those closed every 3rd tracks tend to wear the slider plastics more and steal hp.
Cooper0809
New member
Ok thanks maim! I had a feeling they would wear faster. The clips are cheap but the installation tool is $100, any other way to get them on without a specialty tool? Also, will a dremel work ok for cutting through the track or is there an easier way?
Maim
Super Moderator
lol i sicced a high school kid on mine but i did buy the clip tool that you can use an impact on. i have used the pliers as well and they worked pretty well. you could probably do them with a c-clamp, peice of plate and a chisel. i cut windows out with a carpet knife.
YooperWoods
New member
Cooper0809
New member
Ok thanks for the tips guys! I have the tunnel extension bent, just need to cut the angles and do some riveting.
Cooper0809
New member
Ok so I finally got around to finishing the small tunnel extension and flap mounted. Just need to figure out where to mount the gas cans. I went with 2 4.7L cans because they are smaller in height and I'm thinking this way I can seperate them so the person following can still see the brake light. But I might keep them close together and find a different tail light to mount behind them...haven't decided yet. I also slipped the ski skins under the skis to see what they look like...looks like they'll work pretty good for floatation.
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Cooper0809
New member
Maim
Super Moderator
Looking good! You could try an led trailer/transport lamp mounted at the back of the tunnel. Brother has one integrated into his flap mount on his extended rx.
Cooper0809
New member
I think that would be the cheaper way to go, just not sure what to do yet. I'm still trying to think how I'm going to secure those gas cans. Not sure if I want to build a rack on the back or what, lol. I'd like to keep it a clean look if I'm not taking gas with me...
NorthofSixty
Member
The 89 ET400 has a 136" skid which might work in the 88. Not much travel though.
If it is just for the length you may want to look for an 88 Enticer Long track skid.
If it is just for the length you may want to look for an 88 Enticer Long track skid.
Cooper0809
New member
I think if and when the time comes for a 136", I'll probly put something with good suspension in it...
NorthofSixty
Member
Were you able to install the 1.25" paddle track without moving the drive shaft. Looks like a good project for an SS as well.