2000 sxr clutching, and gearing

brianbailey440

brianbailey440

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Jan 22, 2012
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55
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berlin n.h.
looking for some sound advice about clutching, and gearing.i have a 2000 sxr 700, 115 hp i believe.tried a few differnt weights in the primary.started with stock weights 8df00 3.7 rivet in both holes, and the sled reved 9,000 rpm.46.5 grams . same weights with 3.7 rivet in the tip, and 4.5 in the second hole ,and it reved to 8,600 rpm.47.3 grams.tried a set of 89a-10 weights w/ no rivets, 9,000 rpm. 48.7 grams. added 3.5 to the tip, and 8,300 rpm. 51.8 grams. same weights, added a .83 to the first hole, and 8,000 rpm.52.6 grams. sled pulled much harder with the 89a-10 weights, but i still wasnt happy, so i tried a set of 89l-17605-00-00 with a 2.6 rivet in the only hole, and 8,200 rpm. forgot to weigh them, lol.the sled rips when it gets traction , 1 inch track, 97 sx gearing, 8dn belt, secondary at 70 degrees.my question is should i gear lower to get a higer top speed ?am i reving the correct rpm for that stock motor ?.stock pipe, stock motor, no mods.should i put a set of v-force 3 reeds in it?is it worth the $ ?your input is much appreciated !!! thanks, brian.
 
21-40 is what most recommend for gearing for 500 ft.i mostly trail ride, but like to line em up with my buddies on the pond.1,000 ft. is more like what im looking for, and need some input on this.thanks, brian
 
They say v-force reeds only help with a modded motor. If you trust the gas where you are you could thin the head gasket for more compression, reed spacers or modify the stock reed cage (I believe people prefer to use stainless ones to help with strength), drill the can. I would personally do these 3 things.
 
8df 4.5 3.6 tip 14.5 rollers y-g-y with 51/43 helix green sec 70* pulls great 8500rpm
 
is 8200 too low for that engine?it seems to hook much better with the rpm @8200 than at a higher rpm, and pulls much harder too.if i plan on putting a set of pipes than should i use the v-force 3 reeds?and what mph should i be shooting for to get the best overall performance out of that sled in 1,000 ft. ?
 
headed to the pond to try it out, my buddy has 2002 sxr 600, and two other f-7s are gonna be there.we put some 89a-10 weights in the sxr 600 with a 4.5 rivet in the tip, and the thing pulls the skis off the ground, ill let you guys know how it works out, i hope the 600 isnt faster, lol.
 
Putting pipes on all the clutching your doing now goes out the window. Vforces are a waste of money. 22-39 23-40 would be good trail gears
 
i dont see what primary springs are you using with these combos? the 89a10 weights will be an aggressive lake race type weight, you can make them work but you would need to change the primary spring and also i would use a multi angle helix.

you want to get the sled to come out of the gate about 81-8200rpm and then climb to 8500rpm on top, even with the stock pipe it will work well like this.

gear the sled for the distance you want to run it and your type of riding, you need to gear it before you clutch it or the gearing will change your clutching rpm.
 
I dont think changing gearing will affect the speedo as you are turning the driveshaft at different speeds and thats where the speedo picks up the MPH. But I could be wrong.
 
update, the two f-7s were faster, one has a boondocker kit with reeds and pipes, he was about 110 mph, the other one was about 105 mph, he has v-force3 reeds. next was my 00 sxr, at 103.my buddies 05 viper was right there with me, but i took him on the top end,he has the thundershift weights.my other buddy with the 03 sxr 600 was at 98 mph with the 89a-10 weights .he would take us all off the line, but is only reving 7800-7900 rpm with a 4.5 rivet in the tip.the fastest sled there couldnt get traction.92 v-max 4 drag sled.when it did hook, the skis would be about 2 ft. off the ground, and pulled like nothing ive ever rode before.soo, my conclusion is, stock weights in my sxr @9200 rpm was running 92 mph in 1500 ft before, and now with the 89l-17605 weights @ 8200 rpm, same gearing,is running 103 mph in 1000 ft.huge difference from stock !!!actually putting power to the ground, instead of spinng.stock motor, stock pipe,stock helix,96 studs, and minor suspension adjustments.the sled is night and day from what it was, just with changing the weights, and minor suspension adjustments to the transfer rod spacers, and shock adjustments.i still wanna try the reeds, and maybe the pipes after that,also a 47 degree helix.i would suggest these weights for any non powervalved tripple yamahas for the trail, and some fun on the pond.
 
mr viper, i know your gonna laugh, but im running stock springs with all of these combos, primary spring is three years old, and the secondary spring has 14,000 miles on it.i know i should try something different,but too many variables would be hard for me to see what is actually working for me.i like the mph. but would like to get there quicker. do you think the reeds and pipes would work for me?i really appreciate everyones input.thanks again. brian
 
no,im not laughing, just telling you that your results are kinda inconclusive because is if you never change the spring rate no matter what weight profile you use you will never be able to get the most from that weight, because all your doing is changing the weight and relying on the weight in grams to produce your desired rpm, its when you couple the weight and the spring together is how you get your shift curve.
Example would be the 89a10 you were low on rpm so youd need to change to a spring with slightly higher shift tension thats what would raise the rpm and slow the shift out to run the engine out further thus giving you more mph over a stretch.On the opposite example say you wanted to lower the rpm and get a faster shift from the same weight profile you would lower the tension of the spring this will let the clutch shift faster loading the engine more. Theres a reason there is so many springs and weights in the chart, its for tuning combos.

The springs and weights go together as a set. Your only using half of the formula by never changing the front spring. Nothing really wrong with staying with same helix in the back as the helix is merely to tailor the shift to your liking and desire,plus its way easier to use a straight angle helix then a multi angle helix to get clutching down pat.
 
thanks,awesome information!!!what spring would you suggest for my buddies 03 sxr with the 89a10 weights to achieve 8200 rpm?we both like the rpm @ 8200, it seems to hook hard, and is great on the trails.or should we change to another set that ive allready tried in my sxr 700 that reved 8300 rpm?we have tried about 7 different weight and rivet combos, and so far i love the weights im running now, and he loves the pull of the 89a10 weights. would you change the degree of spring tension on the secondary to match the belt sqeeze in the primary?and last but not least, do you think that v-force 3 reeds would make my sled pull harder?and do i need pipes to work with the reeds?i have two sets, one is bender racing, and the others are power inc.both sets have stingers.
 
i tried a 97 sx 700 that has v-force 3 reeds, and tripple power inc pipes, and the thing is a beast, the most pull i have ever felt on a tripple yamaha by far!!!not sure about the rpm, i was too busy trying to keep the front end down to the trail, lol.i used to have the power inc pipes on my sxr, and that sled would eat mine for breakfast.his hooked harder with a 1.25 track than any sled i have ever tried, with the exeption of the v-max 4 i tried yesterday.i guess that is why im leaning towards the reeds for mine.please correct me if im wrong, but i believe the reeds and pipes will really wake my sled up.i know at least the pipes will give me about 15 hp.not sure about the reeds, but they made a huge difference on that 97 sx 700.trottle response was unreal compared to mine.
 
reeds are a waste of money, buy clutch parts with the 300 for reeds youll get 3 times the return on your money.

pipes add around 20hp they add alot but drink a ton of gas so pick your poison...

the reason that sx ran so well is its dialed in, all the engine work/pipes and jetting is useless if you dont have the clutch dialed in to take advantage of the power to put to the track.

for the sxr600 with 89a10 weights, the stock spring is a 40/123kg yellow/green/yellow color code, so if you want more rpm you need to raise the spring pressure, this will raise the rpm and slow the shift allowing you to build more mph before going into top gear. I would go to a yellow/white/yellow, this spring is 45/128kg, it will raise the engagement speed a bit helping it get out quicker and raise top shift rpm as well. You want like 8100-8200rpm right out of the gate and let it build to 8500rpm on topend. that sled comes with a straight 47 degree helix and red sec spring so it will be easy to have rpm drop with a 47 finish angle with 89a10 weights, what youll find work much better would be a multi angle helix of around 48-50 degree start and the finish angle of 43-44 degrees, it will really pull good up top with a 4.5 rivet in the tip of the 89a
10.

a 51/43 helix is stock on a rx1 and apex they are usually cheap used, that cam would work well for you in that combo.
 
deffinately gonna try that in the sxr 600, do we need to change the spring twist in the secondary? what degree would you suggest starting with?and what would you suggest i try with my sxr 700? 89l-17605 weights with a 2.6 rivet.would you use the same helix and spring?or is there something better for me to try with the weights im running now?gearing is 23-39.what should i try with the stock pipe, and would it also work if i bolt on the pipes? thanks again, i really appreciate the help, and i will post the results as soon as we try these combos
 
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