New tunnel extension installed and cooler reinstalled. Took out the rivets in the way for the front bracket. I can't hold that bracket in place and drill it all at the same time by myself and don't have a clamp that can fit on there. So I'll have to get someone to help me finish that up.
Because the rear of the cat skid is wider than the Yamaha tunnel bracket in the center section where it's strongest, I think I will use some steel I have here and make a bracket that will go outside of the stock rear bracket and have mount holes where I need them.
Because the rear of the cat skid is wider than the Yamaha tunnel bracket in the center section where it's strongest, I think I will use some steel I have here and make a bracket that will go outside of the stock rear bracket and have mount holes where I need them.
Got it together last night. Heading out now to try it. Will update later.
Picture from on the mountain. Coolant is there because apparently I still have a air bubble in the line somewhere. That's the only problem I have still now.
Rough rear bracket I'll probably shape it a little better and paint it over the summer.
Tight clearance in the back but it doesn't hit the rail.
Front mounts are 4.5" straight forward
Rough rear bracket I'll probably shape it a little better and paint it over the summer.
Tight clearance in the back but it doesn't hit the rail.
Front mounts are 4.5" straight forward
Last edited:
So I don't know if I should just keep going in this thread or start a new one.
I'm doing research on clutching. I have a Polaris primary on this sled, I'm assuming it is probably a p85 but I will need to verify that and figure out for sure where all I need to change weight and stuff.
Right now with the new setup its revving to 7800-7900. Single pipe with can what exactly should I be wanting? I'm thinking more like 8200?
Anybody have experience with Polaris primary on a redhead?
I'm doing research on clutching. I have a Polaris primary on this sled, I'm assuming it is probably a p85 but I will need to verify that and figure out for sure where all I need to change weight and stuff.
Right now with the new setup its revving to 7800-7900. Single pipe with can what exactly should I be wanting? I'm thinking more like 8200?
Anybody have experience with Polaris primary on a redhead?
Backwoods M Max
New member
You should target 8500. Polaris weights are tricky because you have to grind them to change mass and effect rpm. You can grind the tips to increase rpm but who knows what curve the weights were or what the original application was. Where's your Yamaha primary? There's really no performance advantage to running the p85.
I bought this sled this way. Haven't touched any of that yet.
Backwoods M Max
New member
That's too bad. The Yamaha primary is a nice clutch and easy to work on. What altitude difference is there between now and where the sled came from. I did a bunch of tuning myself this winter, and the yami specs are pretty spot on. I got frustrated pulling my clutch apart but I was also trying to get peak rpm with non spec springs.
I put a set of heelclickers in because it's easier than grinding rivets all the time. You can also put heelclickers weights in a p85 but it might be uncharted territory for initial setup. One other thing that's a pain about the p85 is you can't pull the cover without pulling the bolt so for all practical purposes you have to pull the clutch off to do anything to it.
I put a set of heelclickers in because it's easier than grinding rivets all the time. You can also put heelclickers weights in a p85 but it might be uncharted territory for initial setup. One other thing that's a pain about the p85 is you can't pull the cover without pulling the bolt so for all practical purposes you have to pull the clutch off to do anything to it.
It was ridden last at the nearly the same altitude as I'm at. I didn't change jets and they are perfect for 0to30 degrees or so. Kinda rich above that.
Sled was running right at 8000 before I changed the skid and track. So with a 162 I lost about 150 rpm.
Wonder how much power I would need to gain to get my rpm back without changing clutch. I really like the way it pulled before so basically I'm just wanting my rpms higher. I've been thinking of a port job. I'll have to think some more. Don't like pulling clutches that much I know...
Sled was running right at 8000 before I changed the skid and track. So with a 162 I lost about 150 rpm.
Wonder how much power I would need to gain to get my rpm back without changing clutch. I really like the way it pulled before so basically I'm just wanting my rpms higher. I've been thinking of a port job. I'll have to think some more. Don't like pulling clutches that much I know...
Backwoods M Max
New member
Did your change your gearing at all? That much extra track might need a little more gear down. What is an unfourtinate down side to these longer sleds is we're throwing windage drag into the mix which shows up at......full throttle when we got wtf we lost rpm.
Have you messed with the secondary at all? What's in it? A Yamaha helix, an aftermarket or some kind of roller setup. A simple 10 degree increase in spring preload may fix your woes. Changing the wrap to tune rpm is not the way to go about tuning but I believe I have found some limitations to the factory settings.
I chased my tail for most of the winter because I have an 02mm with a 151 and was running stock weights with a softer primary spring and factory calibration with 20/39 chain case gears. I switched to heelclickers and still didn't get my rpm up. I changed the helix from 70 to 80 degrees and my rpm's came right up to where they should be. By the HC tuning my rpm should have been right on the mark. By having a chain case reduction ratio so far away from sea level calibration, at stock helix settings the torque reading on it was off. How so? The torque the secondary sees is a function of hp put to it by the belt and torque multiplication in the chain case. Gear it down out of factory specs and it will always upshift faster than designed because it's not seeing the torque load it normally would to control the shift rate.
Play with your secondary a little bit and see if you get your rpm back while maintaining ride ability.
Have you messed with the secondary at all? What's in it? A Yamaha helix, an aftermarket or some kind of roller setup. A simple 10 degree increase in spring preload may fix your woes. Changing the wrap to tune rpm is not the way to go about tuning but I believe I have found some limitations to the factory settings.
I chased my tail for most of the winter because I have an 02mm with a 151 and was running stock weights with a softer primary spring and factory calibration with 20/39 chain case gears. I switched to heelclickers and still didn't get my rpm up. I changed the helix from 70 to 80 degrees and my rpm's came right up to where they should be. By the HC tuning my rpm should have been right on the mark. By having a chain case reduction ratio so far away from sea level calibration, at stock helix settings the torque reading on it was off. How so? The torque the secondary sees is a function of hp put to it by the belt and torque multiplication in the chain case. Gear it down out of factory specs and it will always upshift faster than designed because it's not seeing the torque load it normally would to control the shift rate.
Play with your secondary a little bit and see if you get your rpm back while maintaining ride ability.
Last edited:
I have a roller SLP secondary I guess. Gears I haven't changed. They are currently at 20\40
I have never messed with a secondary but I suppose I can figure out how to change spring preload. Problem is I can't really test until next year now. I'm not going to make it back to the mountains and its 85 here.
I have never messed with a secondary but I suppose I can figure out how to change spring preload. Problem is I can't really test until next year now. I'm not going to make it back to the mountains and its 85 here.
Backwoods M Max
New member
I would fine tune the secondary next before digging into the primary
Not sure if I should post this here or start a new thread. My BIL from Sask. wants to come down and ride some mountains for a change. We are looking at getting another sled. One option we have for 1200 right now is a mountain srx with a mountain max motor swap. Sled looks pretty clean and stock otherwise.
So my question is if I were to get this srx what tunnel and suspension differences are there to the sx mm chassis? I have some spare parts that fit sx and mm but dont want to look into the srx very serious if none of my spare parts will fit.
So my question is if I were to get this srx what tunnel and suspension differences are there to the sx mm chassis? I have some spare parts that fit sx and mm but dont want to look into the srx very serious if none of my spare parts will fit.
SRXtreme
New member
They are all interchangeable to some extent or another. The skid from your MM would be a good swap into the SRX with a 141 track of course. The mounting holes will need to be copied from your MM. Use the SRX shocks, they are better. I could write pages but it is best just to ask specifics and I can answer them................SRXtreme
MM800
Member
How does your SRX with your location of the rear skid ride? I've got a Northern Lites rear skid if your interested. Also a 02 MM mod sled with a long list of mods.
What I did the swap on already was a mm700 and it rides like a dream compared to before. I copied mount locations from a cat forum and changed it up to copy a mod they do to improve transfer. I just posted in one of your sale threads. I'll call you tomorrow eve or after I have talked with my BIL to see if he for sure going to buy this srx.
I cant compare my ride to very many other sleds but we had a 05 doo and an 03 doo and an 07 pro on the ride when I went last. Hands down I'd ride mine any day!
633Racer
New member
Sweet project. Do you know how this will affect your approach angle? What lug track do you plan on running?
Bro in law found a sled that already has a 144 in it so he won't do this swap this year probably. I will post up some pics of how my transfer angle is. Too bad I don't have a stock sled to put beside it.
All that fits with 8 tooth drivers and still leaves enough room for good snow evac is around 2" I got a 162x2.5x16 and cut it down to around 2" and narrowed to just over 15"
All that fits with 8 tooth drivers and still leaves enough room for good snow evac is around 2" I got a 162x2.5x16 and cut it down to around 2" and narrowed to just over 15"
Last edited: