Hey everybody. I'm new to SRX 700. I have a used 2002 I just bought that had a low 1500miles on it and I'm trying to understand some crap that's been happening. If anyone can lend a hand.
I just got 2ft of snow here in Nj. So happy to get this bad boy out into the snow versus the 1" I took it out in the other week. So I noticed this weird smell as the track slips through the deep snow as I rev it and carved out the snow. Didn't think much of it bc once I was on packed snow on the road it would take off and I didn't notice anything.
So I came back through some deep snow and parked it under my deck. Left it out for 5 hours, came back out, turned it on, let it warm up for a bit, then hit the gas to start going. Clutch usually engaged at 4K but this thing was now revving to 6-7 and was just smoking and not moving. And now the same weird smell as before. I idled it back down, gave it some quick revs to 4-6k and eventually it started moving and I got going. Took it on the main roads and got it to 70 mph or so, my limitation on these roads, not the machines. Sounded good. Took off well. But I have no clue why it got stuck.
Can the clutch get frozen or packed with snow?? Maybe my brake is stuck and I don't know it? I have not used the brake lock so don't think that is it.
Please any thoughts or ideas would be much appreciated
I just got 2ft of snow here in Nj. So happy to get this bad boy out into the snow versus the 1" I took it out in the other week. So I noticed this weird smell as the track slips through the deep snow as I rev it and carved out the snow. Didn't think much of it bc once I was on packed snow on the road it would take off and I didn't notice anything.
So I came back through some deep snow and parked it under my deck. Left it out for 5 hours, came back out, turned it on, let it warm up for a bit, then hit the gas to start going. Clutch usually engaged at 4K but this thing was now revving to 6-7 and was just smoking and not moving. And now the same weird smell as before. I idled it back down, gave it some quick revs to 4-6k and eventually it started moving and I got going. Took it on the main roads and got it to 70 mph or so, my limitation on these roads, not the machines. Sounded good. Took off well. But I have no clue why it got stuck.
Can the clutch get frozen or packed with snow?? Maybe my brake is stuck and I don't know it? I have not used the brake lock so don't think that is it.
Please any thoughts or ideas would be much appreciated
JERSEYJOE
Member
New to sledding? Sounds like the skis and track were frozen to the ground. Good tip: when you leave then sled for hours or over night, lift each ski off the ground and bounce the rear end once. Problem goes away. Check your belt. Sounds like you may have flat spotted it.
roudyroy1
Active member
yeah she was froze to the ground. next time just pick up the back and drop it, grab each ski handle and give them a lift to break the frost off them. that smell was belt, you probably smoked it.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
i can tell ya now your belt is probably junk. you are gonna be back on here saying your feeling a clunking sound. 3:16x (yammie tony)
i can tell ya now your belt is probably junk. you are gonna be back on here saying your feeling a clunking sound. 3:16x (yammie tony)
Thanks for all the replies guys. Well, definitely new to sledding where I have to leave the machine outside. Thanks for the tips. Helped after I came back out 20min ago. The v belt is in good shape, I gave it a check, if that's what you meant. If not, I have a new one. Are you saying it is junk bc of what I did or likely was before I did it? It's not like I tried for a while. Smoked real quick.
New "real" issue, i just noticed from my last ride was once I get to 75mph, or better metric, 9k rpm, the DCS goes off and slows down my machine. Sometimes it did it other times it didn't. Am I also supposed to feel it shift gears and the rpm drop at some point and if so what point?
Will the dcs just go off time to time? I have premium gas in it from shell. I filtered the gas into my water stripping funnel, I put the right amount of ethanol stabilizer in it. What should I suspect? Sorry, this is all new to me.
Ps> I did, by mistake, knock into one of the power valve cables that go into that metal tube crimp by the power valve. The black cable casing slipped the crimp and is now 1/4" further out of the crimp. If by Chance that can be the issue.
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sandmann
New member
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2013
- Messages
- 15
Man sounds like multiple things but i would be concerned why ur sled at 75mph is at 9k rpms that pretty high should be at the 8300to 8500 at wot..i would start at looking at ur clutch really good make sure every thing is cleaned out good and inspect the rollers on your primary clutch. U might have to figure out what kind of clutching set up you have in your sled for others to help you with this, good way is reading alot on here there is a ton of helpful info on this site about clutching.... have u every cleaned the carbs thats a big thing to do very important..
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Thx for ideas. Are you saying at 75 mph the rpm should be 8300-8500? If so I am pretty sure that is probably the case. I wasn't on the best of surfaces and it was night time so wasn't looking for that long just saw it was in the vicinity.
Is there another gear it should shift into though? I just don't get how at 8400 rpm at 75 that it would get to 110-120mph.
FYI. The shop I bought the sled from prepped it in NH before I got it delivered to Nj. Supposedly they cleaned the carbs which is part of their prep routine. The throttle response is very good. No delay at all. No matter when. Just when the DCS came on.
I'm pretty sure the clutching is stock. I weigh about 220, which I'm guessing is not setup for my weight.
I'm guessing dcs could be coming on bc of the way the carb was adjusted in NH when it was 50 degrees out. Could that be the case?
Is there another gear it should shift into though? I just don't get how at 8400 rpm at 75 that it would get to 110-120mph.
FYI. The shop I bought the sled from prepped it in NH before I got it delivered to Nj. Supposedly they cleaned the carbs which is part of their prep routine. The throttle response is very good. No delay at all. No matter when. Just when the DCS came on.
I'm pretty sure the clutching is stock. I weigh about 220, which I'm guessing is not setup for my weight.
I'm guessing dcs could be coming on bc of the way the carb was adjusted in NH when it was 50 degrees out. Could that be the case?
8500 rpm is the sweet spot for that sled, that is when you pin it, it should go to 8500 rpm and hold there all the way through the power band. Gotta see what you have for clutching, weights, primary spring, what helix you have and degree of twist you have on the secondary spring all plays a big roll in how sled performs. cruising at 75mph you shouldn't be pulling 8400 rpm. As for DCS run premium fuel at all times and make sure power valves are adjusted to spec. Wouldn't hurt to pull carbs and go through them to make sure everything is spot on.
Vincent
New member
Even if you weighd 300 lbs that machine in stock form should rocket you to 100+ mph. It's the nature of the beast. You definitely have a few issues to sort out.
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thanks. So this is all great feedback...and I get it. The things I'll have to do are:
-get that power valve adjusted where the cable slipped. Clean carbs
- check my clutches (I have never done this stuff and read an hour of tech stuff last night but can't find any videos to show me what these parts look like, and how can I clean them or even report what my clutch setup is. Anything someone can point me to so I can let you guys know what I have?)
If I brought the sled to a shop which doesn't even open up till Tuesday this damn snow will be gone here before they are even done. So I'm trying to at least have myself find if this is a clutch issue or not and clean them to do see if that helps. But these are things I've never done before.
A few questions/ pieces of info that may help narrow this down:
- if I can remember correctly, I can get up to 65/70 mph quickly, even cruise at it, and then when I wot, the rpms will crank up, sled won't go much faster (75 or so), and dcs will kick in once rpm hits around 9k.
- remember I burnt up the belt a bit when track was frozen to ground.
Could the belt be playing a part in what I described above or is that not possible and likely clutching?
Could the DCS be kicking in only when rpm exceeds where the engine should be?
Thanks everybody. I hate not having a proper setup. I think I'm going to hate more that I likely don't have a shop in Nj that are used to fixing these issues.
-get that power valve adjusted where the cable slipped. Clean carbs
- check my clutches (I have never done this stuff and read an hour of tech stuff last night but can't find any videos to show me what these parts look like, and how can I clean them or even report what my clutch setup is. Anything someone can point me to so I can let you guys know what I have?)
If I brought the sled to a shop which doesn't even open up till Tuesday this damn snow will be gone here before they are even done. So I'm trying to at least have myself find if this is a clutch issue or not and clean them to do see if that helps. But these are things I've never done before.
A few questions/ pieces of info that may help narrow this down:
- if I can remember correctly, I can get up to 65/70 mph quickly, even cruise at it, and then when I wot, the rpms will crank up, sled won't go much faster (75 or so), and dcs will kick in once rpm hits around 9k.
- remember I burnt up the belt a bit when track was frozen to ground.
Could the belt be playing a part in what I described above or is that not possible and likely clutching?
Could the DCS be kicking in only when rpm exceeds where the engine should be?
Thanks everybody. I hate not having a proper setup. I think I'm going to hate more that I likely don't have a shop in Nj that are used to fixing these issues.
yamahamark
Member
I would clean the clutches really good as you burnt a belt you could and most likely have belt dust in them which is not letting them shift right.
You can clean primary while it's still on the sled. Slowly remove the bolt on the clutch cover making even turns out till the cap is off. Watch out for the primary spring as it can come flying it. Look for worn or broke weights and rollers and possible cracks in spring.
Secondary basically the same but check to see what the wrap is on.
Also I would suggest getting a service manual they come in very handy.
You can clean primary while it's still on the sled. Slowly remove the bolt on the clutch cover making even turns out till the cap is off. Watch out for the primary spring as it can come flying it. Look for worn or broke weights and rollers and possible cracks in spring.
Secondary basically the same but check to see what the wrap is on.
Also I would suggest getting a service manual they come in very handy.
Thx. When you guys say clean, am I using a cleaner or just blowing everything off is fine. Btw. Just ordered the cd rom service manual for the machine. I am very curious to find pics of what these clutches look like when I open it up. Where these weights are. I'll try and find a YouTube video.
Hammer Down
Member
Probably need a cleaner.someone may have messed with the weights and or spring on the primary if you're running 9,000. Make sure the rivots are in the flyweights. You can see everything external on these clutches. They seem very mysterious at first but are actually very simple. Basically flyweights and springs that work on centrifugal force. Prop the rear of the sled up and run it. Then u will see how they work. Try a new belt first. I've seen up to 3-400 rpm difference between belts. .. I'm not familiar with the DCS cuz I have an 01 but if it was going off I would be concerned. I would clean the carbs again.maybe go a little richer on the jetting. At least turn the fuel screws out more. My 01 is 1-1/8 stock, I went to 1-3/4 and it idled and rode much better. Also, I think the SRX should have BR9ECS plugs(not ES, correct me if I'm wrong on this one guys).
Yes do not ride the sled! 8500 is max you want to run it... Bring it to a mechanic to check out, will save you a lot of time where you are such a newbie...then when it's fixed come back here for setups to get the most of of it when you can handle it fine stock and am looking for more
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Maim
Super Moderator
also, a new primary spring would not be an error. that spring has been compressed in there at least since 2002 and they do go soft over time. I have chased one myself so the $15.00 to replace it is a cheap starting point.
Thanks. Does that primary spring just alter the rpm at which the machine engages or does it affect more than that?
I opened up the housing and looked at the clutches. Didn't open up the clutches yet though. Primary clutch has a yellow and white spring and the secondary clutch has a red spring.
I opened up the housing and looked at the clutches. Didn't open up the clutches yet though. Primary clutch has a yellow and white spring and the secondary clutch has a red spring.
Vincent
New member
also, a new primary spring would not be an error. that spring has been compressed in there at least since 2002 and they do go soft over time.
Wouldn't a soft primary spring bog the motor? As in the weights would ramp up to fast by overwelming a week spring?
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Hammer Down
Member
Stiffer the spring=higher engagement and higher RPM
Then my primary spring is fine bc engagement is fine. It's 4K on the button. Rpm is going over 8500 but just under 9k. And I'm tapped out at 75mph. What does secondary spring affect?
Can someone tell me if this is Stock? Primary clutch has a yellow and white spring and the secondary clutch has a red spring.
Can someone tell me if this is Stock? Primary clutch has a yellow and white spring and the secondary clutch has a red spring.
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yamahamark
Member
You should be way over 75 on top speed. What gears are un it?