So I got out there. 450ft field I got it to 75. Had no room after that but also had it very close to 9k rpms. So rpm thing is an issue. DCS did not go off today. No grip off the line. Still tossing a pile of snow behind my machine. Still have that squeal. Looks like the belt start squealing at idle as the belt vibrates up and down. If I turn the steering column to the left I can make it go away. Weird.
Don't know if any of this tells you guys anything.
Don't know if any of this tells you guys anything.
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yamahamark
Member
Something is definitely off between the clutches and gearing. Are the clutches aliened properly?
As for the pile of snow begin you these sleds launch very hard off the line.
As for the pile of snow begin you these sleds launch very hard off the line.
Stop screw for secondary clutch is worn, that will make the screaming noise at idle, belt will go to high and then belt will be to tight on primary.
Quick fix is to take out the screws and take of the bricks of screws and set screws back.
Save bricks to the day it starts sounds again then buy new screws
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Are saint this bc 450ft at 75mph is not that quick or bc of the squeal? How do I check clutch alignment and adjust it?
My sled just keeps digging until I'm deep in snow. Should I continue to hold throttle until I shoot out of a cannon??
This squeal didn't happen until the moment I put new belt on. Never. I'm going to put old belt on and if squeal isn't there then I know it's NOT the screws. It could also be my dumb *** wiping clutch down with windex
Hammer Down
Member
You're not gonna get much more than 75-80 mph in deep powder snow. Especially wih a stock track. The new belt is wider so the washers need to be removed on the backside of the secondary. The belt should be a few mm above the secondary.
It is the screws in this scenario you are mentioning. What happens is the old belt wears over time becoming narrower than a brand new belt. and in order to compensate for the new belts added width you must adjust the screws by removing the washers. What the screws actually do with out the washers is hold the sheaves further apart, you should remove your secondary and look down between the sheaves see where they are then remove the washers replace screws the sheaves will now be further apart. Bolt is #12 washer is #13
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Snowmobile/2002/SRX700+-+SRX700G/SECONDARY+SHEAVE/parts.html
The belt is within spec according to manual. 1mm above secondary. So I don't think I need the spacers out. And from what I read that shouldn't lead to squeal just engagement rpm. Which as stayed the same at 4krpm since belt change.
yamahamark
Member
Best way to check alignment is with the alignment tool.
http://www.firstplaceparts.com/slp-yamaha-snowmobile-clutch-alignment-tools.html
http://www.firstplaceparts.com/slp-yamaha-snowmobile-clutch-alignment-tools.html
It read 60mph today out in fresh powder but no darn way I was going 60. When I had grip and was flying down packed snow it said 70 and felt twice as fast as 60. Think it read 60 bc that is how fast the track was moving
Also FYI. 65 miles to 10 gallons I put in. I mean I've been gunning it but that seems pretty low know?
Okay then easy way to check lift the back of the sled of the ground with a stand start it up if the track is moving and the squeal is gone your belt is to tight. Specs or not the squeal is the new belt with them washers is my bet seen more then a couple times. it affects engagement rpm when the belt is worn and the primary has to close further to compensate for the secondary not holding the belt tight.
Alignment should be checked with tool, if you dont have one order it until then after a good run you should feel the primary if you cant hold your hand on it there is probably an alignment or ctc or wrong clutching combo.
I'll check this tonight. But if I use the data I do know that would add up. Meaning with old belt which was only 1mm difference, the clutch engaged at 4K. With new belt the clutch also engaged at 4K. But maybe the spacers are just enough to make it squeal but not alter engagement?
Go here and click on technical specs to find out what springs and other parts your sled came with stock.
http://www.totallyamaha.com/
http://www.totallyamaha.com/
Labrador-Ronin
Member
I'd check the valves, and look closely at the belt, check your slides and the tension other track, I can only smell the belt burning when you started off after she was frozen on to the ground
The bolts also wear out on the ends overtime. They probably are the same without the washers as new bolts would be with the washers. Every time the secondary closes it wears a little more off. Its also like 5 minutes to take them off if you leave the secondary in place.
If you are interested in learning about clutching read Olav Aaen Clutch tuning handbook then read again.
Doc your choice if you listen to our advice, this issue is typical and common and we got the experience.
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Definitely listening to you guys. My questions are more of a learning process. Per some of your replies I tried those things out this am:
#1-This morning I propped the rear up and the belt would continue to rotate very slowly. Squeal is never there when I first start only after I run the machine around for a bit. And like I said, if I lean to one side of the machine it goes away. So if the belt moving at all can create that squeal then the belt is too tight. I'm just confused as to why if it is within spec it is still considered too tight. I'm guessing there is some play in that spec number. For instance if I have a squeal at 1.4mm above plate and don't either washers then take the washers the hell out. Correct?
#2- clutch alignment tip - I took someone's tip about running the machine hard for a while and then putting my hand on the primary clutch to see if I can keep my hand on it if I don't have a clutch alignment tool. The primary was spinning so fast that there was no way I thought I could my hand on this,but I tried anyway and my hand got torn up bad. I'm not that much of a moron. Anyhow, I shut machine off, put my hand on primary and it was hot as all hell. Definitely could not keep my hand on it and I am pretty good with touching hot stuff.
#3 - got the machine out into a long open field. Made a bunch of light runs to build a good base. Still get no grip off line but still had plenty of room to push this. About 500 ft. If hit 70 at probably 300-350ft. Thing definitely went to 9k rpm today. Is the clutch alignment the likely reason why it's not shifting correctly? Btw dcs did not go off.
Quick note. when I jacked up the rear I also tested if I could get machine above 70. I got it to 90 then let off. So it can definitely get there.