New SRX 700 owner/stuck after leaving sled in snow


I assume stock gears. Are those stock spring colors? How do I find out what the gears are?
 
Take off the chaincase cover and count the teeth. Check and see what the drivers are on the drive axle too. Stock is 9
 
Im guessing there is no easy way to do that. I'd have to take off the mufflers and the chain case which means I'd have to drain the oil, right?

Why would someone change that gear? Previous owner had 1500 miles on. Symptoms seem clutch and/or belt related. No?
 
It does sound like someone geared that thing down for faster acelleration. Take your chaincase cover off and divide the top gear # by the bottom gear #. The higher the number that you come up with, the lower the gear ratio. Witch could cause your lower top speed, high rpm
 
I will have to. Either way I need to change something to drop the peak rpm till 8500 and keep engagement at 4K.
 
Thanks. I'm just doubtful this previous owner buys this sled new. Puts 1500 miles on and stores it from 2006 till now. And with that short period of use he somewhere decides to change out the gears and leave the clutching alone. Seems far fetched but it will at least tell rule out a reason. First I'm going to put new belt on. And see what happens.
 
New belt is a nice place to start as there can be many things that would cause this.
Working out the bugs and fixing someone else's screw up is the worst part. I'm still work out the bugs a messes on my 97 sx that I bought a year ago.
But by doing this you get to know your sled better and what should and shouldn't be there.
 
Very true. Just put the new belt on but couldn't make it out to where I wanted to to test the speed and rpm out. I will tomorrow. I did notice I now have a squeal with the new belt when it stops. I can actually start and stop the squeal momentarily if I bounce up and down a bit on my seat. Soon as it engages, squeal stop. Still engages at 4K which it should.

Is the squeal normal for a new belt?
 
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What brand of belt is it? Just thinking, if the sled sat for 10 years you really should go over it thoroughly. Chaincase oil changed. Carbs cleaned. Clutches cleaned. Check bearings in bogies and shafts. You could have frozen bogie bearing acting as a brake on your track. Set the track tension. Is the caliper free. I've seen those frozen too.
 
If its brand new ya it may squeal a little bit might have to be adjusted the top of belt should almost be flush with the secondary clutch sounds like it may be to high ... there are three screws on back of secondary with washers on them you add or subtract to get the proper belt hight... also make sure you break the new belt in proper dont be roding on it hard for the first 50 miles or so might be a old wives tale but have been a firm believer of proper brake in of new belts

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The dealer I bought it from did a prep on this machine before I bought it from them. Also provided all used snowmobiles a 60 day warranty from jan1. So I'll be calling them tomorrow.

The belt I believe is within spec. <1.5mm above top edge. I'll double check tomorrow. But might be a hair above which is causing the squeal. The old belt was just slightly below the sheave.

How free moving should the rollers be on the primary and what are the rollers purpose? I spun them and I can get a spin sometimes and others not. They also look a little discolored. If I do get them to spin they don't spin for long
 
Exactly what conditions were you testing speed and rpm in? If you were pushing through fresh powder your track could be spinning enough to reduce the load on the clutches allowing the engine to over rev in that set of conditions. You may not be off as much as you think on a packed trail for example. Not sure about the dcs.

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Ya born makes good point. Whatever you do dont give up on the old girl because you do have a gem on your hands.. just takes sometime to get used sleds that you're not very familiar with just right but when you do you will understand why that sled is so popular with us blue bleeders.

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BornYamaha said:
Exactly what conditions were you testing speed and rpm in? If you were pushing through fresh powder your track could be spinning enough to reduce the load on the clutches allowing the engine to over rev in that set of conditions. You may not be off as much as you think on a packed trail for example. Not sure about the dcs.

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Click to expand...

Thanks for everyone's feedback. And good point. I was on a street that was mostly packed down. A good 6" on it. I have spikes in the track. Track could have been slipping therefore decreasing load which then allowed it to over rev but no way to tell. Whatever road area I was on it was always over 8500 on the tach. Maybe a real groomed trail would have been different. But I have none around here. As this snow melts and fields get more packed down I guess I'll no more.

We got about 20" inches here. If I am running her in a fresh field through that 20" fresh light powder (can't make a snowball) that track will spin alot and I don't believe I have gotten her over 30-35mph in those conditions. Is the normal?

I will check for sure today though.

I've read a lot about clutching yesterday. I thought once the weights are set on the primary and you get the rpm nailed down to peak HP it can't go about that rpm, no matter the load on the track. Am I wrong about that? And either way it should shift or the the mph on the tach should still be moving ahead even though I'm not in reality.
 
What size track is on it? If it has a taller track it will probably have 8 tooth drivers. You can get under it and count the teeth on the drivers that turn the track. The 8 tooth would definitely make it over rev. Then if someone lowered the gears on top of that it would over rev even more. Most people don't know that changing gears effects the clutches.
 
I need to confirm that precisely. I was told by dealer that machine sat for a while and they prepped it to ensure everything would be good to go. They are a reputable dealer in Nh. And they gave me a warranty. I'd assume that would be part of their prep but we all know what assuming does.

I added a picture (hopefully you guys can see it) of how the track sits on the ground. To a novice I'd feel that with me off the machine the entire track should make contact with the snow. Does this look right?

Also I measured the belts both new and one that was on there. Only a mm difference. 34.5 on the new and 33.5 on the old. Measured the bottom side too and only a half mm difference on that.

I'll know soon the differences once I get out there. Within the hour
 

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