The skinny on Yamalube (by nosboy)


yes, they are alot different than from the 70s. tractors nowadays have serious power, more technologically advanced than any car on the market. there is GPS, autosteer(hands free steering), front suspensions, active seats, etc. thats for john deere anyways.
nosboy said:
YES KLOTZ BENOL smells wonderful!!!!! I would use it as deodorant if it wasn't so expensive!!!! Sorry If I offended anyone about the farm tractor comment!!!! The last time I drove a farm tractor, I was around 10 years old (1971) and they weren't too sophisticated!!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
wisviper said:
Good post.. This has got me planning on switching from Yamalube to Klotz.
Do they make just one style (or blend). If not which one would be recommended for a stock Viper? Thanks

Klotz has bascially one oil formulated for 2 stroke snowmobile applications that most people use for the vast majority of snowmobile applications. This oil is formulated for use in power valved sleds and can be used in either pre mix or injection systems. Here is a link to the tech spec info on Klotz's web site: http://www.klotzlube.com/tech/KL-215.pdf

They also make the Super Techniplate and also the R-50. Both are 2 cycle oils but made for pre mix only and are for modified / race applications.

I sell the 2 cycle KL-215 oil for 22.00 per gallon plus what ever it costs to ship it from me to you. I buy it in bulk and sell it by the gallon. It is like you and I are buying a barrel together and I am just shipping you your portion. No catches, no tricks, no jokes. Just good oil.

We started using Klotz oil in Yamaha's in the early 70's in our SL338, GP292 and GP433. (we had a GP433 wide track with 2 speed chain case too). Had an SRX and now we have V-Max's. With Yamaha having one of the early oil injection systems, Klotz oil seemed to work the best for not fouling plugs in those sleds as no one really made an oil that seemed to work as good injected.

Klotz is one of the Premium synthetic oils on the market.

Rick ;)!
 
Rick: I like your style and I don't even know you!!!!! As far as mixing bean oil with redline,,, I'm just about SURE that it wont work!!!!! I haven't found anything that mixes with bean oil.. I do not know anything about redline oil,, but,,, synthetics are FAR SUPERIOR TO CONVENTIONAL OILS!!!!! As far as the "farm tractor" thing,,,, I've never spent THAT MUCH TIME with farm tractors!!!!Gary Oles nosboy
 
Hey all you blue marble guys, I just saw a case of 4 gallons on ebay for 90.00 plus shipping... Looks like a great deal!!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
TC-W oils are 2 cycle water cooled classifications. Many people got confused over the years regarding this, up to a few years ago yamaha had a cheaper oil, don't remember what they called it, that wasn't TCW rated. The TCW rating originated in the 70's with the outboard companies. Prior to that manufacturers would tell you, you could mix 30wt. motor oil in your gas at 24:1. Talk about a smoky mess.

The TC rated oils had a higher ash content which was "dirty" burning but required for earlier air or fan cooled engines which have a higher running temp. Such as Phazers, lawn mowers, and weed wackers.

As fuel quality deminished in the 80's 2 stroke manufacturers realized there was a need to come up with better oils because the oil of the day and the fuel of the day was so dirty engines were "coking" up, impacting rings and failing engines. This testing and varification process is extensive to get the certifacation. It is done by an independent company and it is very expensive. So Mercury, OMC and Yamaha got together and created the TCW-3 rating.

TCW-3 is pretty much the same base stock with a detergent package and lubricant package added to it. As much as people like to think all TCW-3 oils are the same, they are not. The additive package which is mixed with the oils is the expensive part, thats why some oils are more pricey than others. Generally the more expensive oil is better for your engine even though we don't like to spend the extra money for it. There are many TCW-3 oils out there that that just make the minimum standard for the rating, which many surpass the rating by leaps and bounds, those are the expensive oils. As someone else mentioned, no body make their own oil. Most of the oils are made by Citgo and Sunoco.

As well, the oils have different viscosities, such as oils for premix only and for oil injection. The oil injection oils have been thinned with solvents so they flow through the small injection lines in cold weather, pre-mix oils have not, they expect it to be thinned in the fuel. Pre mix only oils in oil your oil injection system turns to molasses in your oil lines below 30 degrees.

Do certain oils enhance performance other than their lubricating qualities? Absolutely. There's all kinds of chemicals added to race oils that will give you HP. Thats why if you race, your fuel gets tested. Being an inspector, we sometimes test fuels before and after mixing oils, the fuel will pass before oil is added and fail after mixing. Thats why in some racing venues they tell you what oil you have to run, to eliminate some of the cheating. You eliminate the guys that come over and get fuel tested 3 or 4 times seeing what they can "get away with". The best oil we tested was Yamahalube "R", but it will not pass fuel test with any "fancy fuel" only real race gas like leaded 108.
 
I wondering why Yami lube has that distinctive smell and the other oils that may have come from that zillion gallon batch smell differently? Now I have never tested the other brands from that zillion gallon batch and compare smell but why does Yami lube smell like yami lube ?
 
SRX7 said:
I wondering why Yami lube has that distinctive smell and the other oils that may have come from that zillion gallon batch smell differently? Now I have never tested the other brands from that zillion gallon batch and compare smell but why does Yami lube smell like yami lube ?


Hmmm interesting.... Can't be magic powder...

nosboy said:
The YAMALUBE comes from a zillion gallon VAT on 39th and cicero..... You could buy K mart or wal mart or farm and fleet 2 stroke oil and get the EXACT SAME OIL that is in the Yamalube bottle for HALF THE PRICE... Yamaha doesn't open up the caps and THROW ANY MAGIC POWDER in the gallons of oil when they come from citgo.... Sometimes they come directly from citgo and the yamaha warehouse NEVER EVEN SEE the cases!!!!!
 
Canuck said:
I'm no expert but there are atleast 3 standards commonly referred to for snowmobile oil, ISO, JASO and API (TC).

The specification that Yamaha requires is the JASO - FC. I believe the highest current standard is the ISO - EGD. I currently use Shell Synthetic, it meets both standards.

This article explains a bit about the different standards.

http://www.off-road.com/snowmobile/reviews/2003/spectro/
Good artical. I read through it and think that the JASO FC rating that yamalube has is a pretty good standard.

As for all the arguments for synthetic, lets see. I've had 3 new yamaha 2 strokes(red headed 6, two vipers) and I have yet to foul a plug or sieze a piston. Both vipers went 5000 miles before I cleaned the valves. All went at least 5000 miles on the same rings with the first viper at 8000 without a rebuild. All while running yamalube exclusively. So, why do I NEED synthetic again? For 20 bucks a gallon i'll stick with what aint broke.

Besides I like the smell of yamalube anyway. I make those amsoil guys ride in the back!
 
Magic Powder? Sure, put something that smells in your oil tank, and you will smell it when it burns. We all know that Ski Doo's old oil was nasty smelling, well a couple of years ago they had an oil "smell" test to see what the public liked more than that rancid stuff they were selling.

Quite frankly what most of you are smelling is parafin, a common ingredient of most quality TCW-3 oils. Thats what you are smelling from Yamalube 2S.
 
I have been using Redline race oil in my vintage racers for 3 years now and love it. Its even been in my 700XTC and my sons GS300 trail sleds
Pricey...yes but I really think its worth it. Many I race with use Klotz R-50 and swear by that as well
Monty
 


Back
Top