n2oiroc
New member
what was off, the center mount or the center to center lengths?maxdlx said:Mine did the same thing, it was hitting on the rear of the rear shock. Right where the rear siccors goes under it. Mine works just like it did before, but I have all my holes lined up right now too. Maxdlx
TimeBomb
New member
so w/the suspension in the stock positions it is fine?
n2oiroc
New member
i dont know, i would have to remove the drop brackets and change the upper shaft back to stock to get it in the stock location. if this doesnt seem to work them ill switch it back. i dont see why it wouldnt work in the stock position, the only thing i dont like about that is the limiters will have to be pulled almost all the way up.TimeBomb said:so w/the suspension in the stock positions it is fine?
maxdlx
VIP Lifetime Member
I had the distance from center of center hole to center of rear hole off 15mm. Just so all the Nay sayer Know, just went for a ride, and they can kiss my a$$. It isn't tippy at all, turns as good as can be expected in low snow tall grass conditions, and hooks up great. Oh yeah and it rides just like my 97 did witht he ohlins in it. So it works you just have to take the time to tune it. Maxdlx
DoktorC
Member
I've got the same issues...I thought my shock was broken. It move VERY easily until the hot rods lock up...then it is really stiff. The two steal bars that run parallel to the shock are bowed out as well. If you remember Max, I did the suspension relocation as well but it was fairly parallel. Does anyone have a measurement that works??? This nearly cost me the sled last year...I tried to wheelie over a small section of open water and as soon as the suspension locked up it rammed the nose down and almost sank the sled.
n2oiroc
New member
i think it was a problem because of the rear mount being 5/16" too far back. it seems pretty good now, but ill try and have yamaholic22 stop buy and see what he thinks. i really cant jump on the back and look at the same time!DoktorC said:I've got the same issues...I thought my shock was broken. It move VERY easily until the hot rods lock up...then it is really stiff. The two steal bars that run parallel to the shock are bowed out as well. If you remember Max, I did the suspension relocation as well but it was fairly parallel. Does anyone have a measurement that works??? This nearly cost me the sled last year...I tried to wheelie over a small section of open water and as soon as the suspension locked up it rammed the nose down and almost sank the sled.
DoktorC
Member
n2oiroc
New member
what is the measurement from center to rear, both stock and the relocated one?
DoktorC
Member
695mm R vs 693mm S...about 3/32" difference
n2oiroc
New member
ok so here is what i get out of that.
relocation: front to rear hole 695mm, front to mid hole 403mm. what is the 18 and 93?
relocation: front to rear hole 695mm, front to mid hole 403mm. what is the 18 and 93?
DoktorC
Member
Distance from the running board to the center of the bolt. I'm not using any type of drop bracket.
n2oiroc
New member
so the center was dropped 4mm and the rear 2mm? is the center to front mount the same distance as stock?
DoktorC
Member
yes the front is the same distance as stock. 2mm shouldn't make such a huge difference.....should it?
n2oiroc
New member
i wouldnt think that small of an amount would affect it much, but i have started to realize the pro action is the most finicky suspension in existance! also i might be reading something wrong, but how did you only move the center 4mm and the rear 2mm? wouldnt it still be in the stock hole, or did you change the tunnel or do a drop and roll?DoktorC said:yes the front is the same distance as stock. 2mm shouldn't make such a huge difference.....should it?
DoktorC
Member
It's relocated back 2 5/8".
n2oiroc
New member
everything sounds like it would work fine. the center is 3mm high and the front to rear is 2 mm too long, but that is such a small amount, i cant believe it is binding that bad because of it! was the driveshaft moved too? or just the suspension?
DoktorC
Member
just the suspension is moved. There is alot of sag and if you "jump" on it, it has a definite stop when it hits the transfer rod. That being said I've jumped this thing off some big drops and haven't bent or broke anything but its definitly not right.
n2oiroc
New member
i think i might have figured something out. can you measure from the top of the tunnel, instead of the boards? that might uncover the problem.
DoktorC
Member
LOL...yes...like the taperedness of the tunnel effecting the measurements..................????
n2oiroc
New member
thats what im thinking! maybe all of us with swiss cheese tunnels can figure out something to cover all the extra holes from trial and error!DoktorC said:LOL...yes...like the taperedness of the tunnel effecting the measurements..................????