136" suspension issues!

Doc get me the measurements between to holes. I think the rear to center is 39 or 41 mm. 2 to 3 mm can make the center shock wll the cross shaft and stop itself dead. Get someone to compress the suspension, and watch the lower side of the back of the rear shock and be sure it doesn't bottom out. what track did you go with after you blew the 126? you are actuall relocated back 1/8 inch to far, which is 1/4 inch of track. So maybe under compresion the track is too tight. I emailed you too, so get back to me. Maxdlx
 

Max, I made a diagram...it's on page 3 lol.

Center to rear is 403mm vs 405mm on the stock sled. In my email I mentioned that I actually only moved it back 2 3/8 (I forgot lol). I went to a 136 after the 126 blew...I kept the setback and went with 8" wheels. It actually works well except for the weird binding I'm experiencing under transfer. I beleive that straight up and down the suspension is working but if you try to wheelie...no good.
 
so maxdlx you think you got this figured out I would like to try it before I go on my first trip West but would like to what till someone tells me they have it perfected,
then I might concider relocation and a longer track with my 136 skid? 144 x 16 ??
thought about doing this and switching back in the 136 track for Iowa
 
..SNAKEBIT.. said:
so maxdlx you think you got this figured out I would like to try it before I go on my first trip West but would like to what till someone tells me they have it perfected,
then I might concider relocation and a longer track with my 136 skid? 144 x 16 ??
thought about doing this and switching back in the 136 track for Iowa
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how about running a 136" x 16" x 1.75" doo track? it has more surface area than a 144" x 15".
 
yeh that might work BUT would not a 144 x 16 x 2 with 8 tooth drivers and skid relocation give me a better approach angle? just thinking for out west bigger would be better. But the 136 would be easier! starting to think I just need to find a used Mountain Viper
 
..SNAKEBIT.. said:
yeh that might work BUT would not a 144 x 16 x 2 with 8 tooth drivers and skid relocation give me a better approach angle? just thinking for out west bigger would be better. But the 136 would be easier! starting to think I just need to find a used Mountain Viper
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i didnt see the 144 x 16 in your first post. yeah, im sure that would definatly be a big improvement over a 136 x 16. does camo even make a 144 x 16? i dont remember seeing one.
 
..SNAKEBIT.. said:
I was thinking Doo ran one maybe not, I could be all wet
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i just looked on tracksusa. your right 144 x 16. all the way up to a 2.3" lug! 2.52 or 3" pitch.
 
DoktorC said:
K..measurement from tunnel top to bolt center - rear - 16cm, center - 10.5cm
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so you have:

rear center
yours 6.299" 4.133"
stock 6.375" 4.25"

sure looks close, the center is only about 1/8" too high. well, im stumped!
 
Maybe my center shock is effed or something..that may cause it to pivot on the w arm. I dunno.
 
top down isn't my worry. it is the measurement from hole center to hole center... I still think it is the rear of your rear shock hitting the shaft under it when the suspension compresess. Maxdlx
 
I'm gonna jump in here cause I too am having issues with my 136 conversion. Can you guys get these things to handle with out pushing terrible. I am so disappointed with the turning of this thing I am considering taking it all back off and staying with a 121. I think my problem is that the rear of the skid is off the ground when the sled is sitting still. The natural tendancy is to rock back so the track is flat, thus lifting the skis and pushing through the turns. I have mine in the stock mounting holes and can occassionally feel the clunk when the rods hit too. How are you guys getting these things to handle? Can you get it anywhere near a 121 in regards to turning? It rides good, and accelerates and transfers real well, it just takes 3 city blocks to get the thing turned. Do I have to get the drop brackets or can I get it right in the stock holes?
 
Hey B2SO, your sled looks to sit perfect with the skid in the stock holes. How far did you have to pull up your limiter straps and how does it handle, ride, and transfer? It looks like you have a nice set up. Did you do anything other than relocate your rods?
 
David, sorry i didn't give you a call this weekend to make it out there, was VERY busy with working on 3 Polaris's, and we all know that can take the better of a weekend, lol. I'll be around next weekend though if you still wanted me to shoot over sometime. You have my cell #?
 
136

Almost 700 , th reason i didnt relocate was i still ride alot of trails and i love the on rails feeling , i feel i have lost nothing as far as trail performance and have only gained ride quality and flotation and of course the main reason for me was HOLESHOT !!!!! I just fricken love it ....i doesnt look as mean as a relocate but for my application it perfect !!!!!The limiter straps are maybe 5 turns in more than with the 121...
 
Almost700, try backing off your centre spring to no preload and suck up your limiters, thats what i did last year, actually did it twice to it to work the way i wanted, stock 121 limiters are like 28mm and i now have them like at 45mm, get the weight back on skis..........having said that, it will not corner like it did when it was 121 but the trade offs, IMO is well worth going 136............James
 
Thanks guys. B2SO, how far out are your straps? 1/2, 3/4? I too am a flat lander and want the on rails feeling. I was amazed at how bad this thing was in the trail. I know I can tune a lot out of it just wondering how much. Reaper, thanks to you as well. When you say 45 mm, you mean from the end of the adjuster bolt to the nut? I am ok with sacraficing a little handling for the increased traction, but if it doesn't get a lot better, Which I think it will, I will be selling the entire 136 kit. I think I can make it work. I appreciate the input from you guys. Will save me a lot of trial and error. To both of you, where do you have the preload set on your front shock (rear skid). I am 240lbs so I want to keep it as stiff as possible while still having some handling. Thanks again
 
yamaholic22 said:
David, sorry i didn't give you a call this weekend to make it out there, was VERY busy with working on 3 Polaris's, and we all know that can take the better of a weekend, lol. I'll be around next weekend though if you still wanted me to shoot over sometime. You have my cell #?
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no problem. i know how things go. just look at how long i have been doing this project! lol! next weekend i will be riding with rich in muni. i think i got this figured out. if i have any doubts, ill bring the polaris. p.m. me your # so i have it for next time. thanks!
 
Only 700, I stretched my Viper and used MSRX rails and drop brackets. I couldn't get my sled to turn either. Loosened the center shock and pulled the limiters ALL the way up!! Still wouldn't turn!!! Ride was HARSH!! Installed 7" CnA Pros, and could barely turn the thing!!. Readjusted the limiter so that 1/4" of thread was showing above the top nut, reset the preload on center shock, and TADAAAAA! Turns GREAT and rides WAY better than stock. Ask Maxdlx and anyone else at the Feb. TY ride. I was chasin' the boys on the 05' RX1s PRETTY hard. I run 8" Bergstrom Triple Point Carbides and no ski shims. Never darts and turns in hardpack or powder. I weigh 280, and LOVE the balance my sled has now with the longer track. If you can afford to replace your ski's you can get your sled to turn.
Good luck,
Dave :yrules:
 
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