Vmax540
VIP Member
I have added wide kits to Phazers, Exciters, and V-maxs and firmly believe this is the single biggest improvement to stability, ride, handling, reduced ski lift, and not to mention they look awesome ! I've found the 40" ski stance to be a good all around width for trail riding and trailering. For Phazers Yamaha had rubber fillers on the 40”widened 96 -98 Phazer II’s to fill in the gap between the panel and strut holder.
-You need to remove the hood, side panels and skis. Then lower the front of the belly pan by drilling out the rivets (to weld underneath of frame cuts).
- Scribe horizontal lines around cross member to insure you get the strut holders realigned also, write down some point to point measurements for reference. Note the center to center distance of the top of strut holders and the bottom of struts and you will see the top distance is ~ ½ “narrower.
-Only cut and weld one side at a time to allow for comparison for alignment.
-#2 Cut a straight line as close to the Inside of frame as possible and away from strut holder this allows more frame left on strut holder and allows better realignment when inserting extensions.
-I drill 4 3/8" holes around C.M. only (not) extensions to allow spot welding thru the C.M. into the extension along, with the welds around the cut.
- Take a dremmel or file and chamfer the inside of the cut frame and outside of extension pipe to allow extension pipe to be driven into the frame. Also, there is a seam on the inside of frame that should be smoothed out.
- Lay sled on its side and use a block of wood to drive extension pipe into frame with a mallet or sledge. Yes, it’s tight…. But, I try to get at least 3” or more inside the frame.
- Measure the (cut off) remaining strut holder frame then add the amount you want to widen and then cut off extension pipe. Align the strut holder and tap onto the extension pipe.
-Tack both sides on then use a straight edge on strut top’s, sides and bottom’s to help alignment. Check all scribe marks, angles, and measurements before completely welding. Note that you can pull the alignment off if you weld too much on one side at once and not the other.
- After welding completely around, take a piece of original frame and slit it lengthwise, pry it open and install it around the extension pipe to double the strength and weld in place.
- On the V-max 540 I found it necessary to grind out and extend the opening approximately 1” back on the right side of the sled where the tie rod goes thru the bulkhead and out to the strut arm.
-You can either buy longer tie rods or cut and extend your originals.
I have all the materials to add a wide kit for $45.00 plus shipping !
Good luck any question let me know. Chuck Schettler cccsche@gmail.com W 814 226 – 1595 7-2 eastern or H 814 354 – 2687 evenings and weekends
-You need to remove the hood, side panels and skis. Then lower the front of the belly pan by drilling out the rivets (to weld underneath of frame cuts).
- Scribe horizontal lines around cross member to insure you get the strut holders realigned also, write down some point to point measurements for reference. Note the center to center distance of the top of strut holders and the bottom of struts and you will see the top distance is ~ ½ “narrower.
-Only cut and weld one side at a time to allow for comparison for alignment.
-#2 Cut a straight line as close to the Inside of frame as possible and away from strut holder this allows more frame left on strut holder and allows better realignment when inserting extensions.
-I drill 4 3/8" holes around C.M. only (not) extensions to allow spot welding thru the C.M. into the extension along, with the welds around the cut.
- Take a dremmel or file and chamfer the inside of the cut frame and outside of extension pipe to allow extension pipe to be driven into the frame. Also, there is a seam on the inside of frame that should be smoothed out.
- Lay sled on its side and use a block of wood to drive extension pipe into frame with a mallet or sledge. Yes, it’s tight…. But, I try to get at least 3” or more inside the frame.
- Measure the (cut off) remaining strut holder frame then add the amount you want to widen and then cut off extension pipe. Align the strut holder and tap onto the extension pipe.
-Tack both sides on then use a straight edge on strut top’s, sides and bottom’s to help alignment. Check all scribe marks, angles, and measurements before completely welding. Note that you can pull the alignment off if you weld too much on one side at once and not the other.
- After welding completely around, take a piece of original frame and slit it lengthwise, pry it open and install it around the extension pipe to double the strength and weld in place.
- On the V-max 540 I found it necessary to grind out and extend the opening approximately 1” back on the right side of the sled where the tie rod goes thru the bulkhead and out to the strut arm.
-You can either buy longer tie rods or cut and extend your originals.
I have all the materials to add a wide kit for $45.00 plus shipping !
Good luck any question let me know. Chuck Schettler cccsche@gmail.com W 814 226 – 1595 7-2 eastern or H 814 354 – 2687 evenings and weekends
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BigMan76
Member
Did you change anything in the rear skid as well?
Vmax540
VIP Member
Not with a wide kit but, when I use the longer struts I use drop brackets in the rear to offset the higher front end.
Hey guys, great sled, i was thinking of doing the V max strut thing myself. The front suspension bottoms too easy after my rear suspension upgrade. I dunno if it still classifies as totallyamaha but its the only engine that i could find to fit with enough power. Check out my 670 144" 90 exciter
http://www.snowest.com/fusetalk/messageview.cfm?catid=3&threadid=301991&enterthread=y
http://www.snowest.com/fusetalk/messageview.cfm?catid=3&threadid=301991&enterthread=y
03viperguy
Moderator
pretty damn neat! did you dyno to see how the pipe works with the setup? nice job!
No, unfortunately I have no access to a dyno. I am very interested also. Interestingly enough the ski doo y pipe welded onto the PSI exciter single sounds AMAZINGLY good. Way better than expected.
Vmax540
VIP Member
Nice Job Riffer !
Vmax540
VIP Member
Interesting.
I've thought about raising my whole seat about two inches. Get tired of trying to stand up from the lower seat. Adding a gas tank is a great idea. How do you transfer the gas from the spare tank to the main tank/engine?
Vmax540
VIP Member
Daring, put the line from the auxillary tank on the main tanks vent line simple as that ! It will pull the gas from the Aux. tank first, which has to have a vented gas cap in order to pull the gas and then when it's empty the air for the main tank !
What drop brackets did you use?
Vmax540
VIP Member
Coles I simply welded a plate to the bottom of exsiting mount ! I drilled holes ~2" lower to offset the higher front !
For your longer track, did you just remount the stock rear suspension (redrill), or did you use a longer set of skids? Do you have any details on how you did it, and what to avoid? It sounds like you welded drop brackets on, but I'm wondering how you accomodated the longer track.
I just bought an '87 Exciter yesterday that already has a wide front end, and what appears to be matching wider plastic panels (from Phazer II maybe?). It looked about 1.5" wider per side than his '88 next to it. With these wider plastics, will the Vmax Pogo's still work? Or is the outside diameter too large, and I'll need to look for a set of original plastics. What do you think?
Lastly, I would like to add plastic skis. Do I also need to use Vmax skis if I use the Pogo's and saddles from a Vmax? Am I required to use the Vmax saddles? I guess I'm a Yamaha newbie, so what may seem obvious to some of you...is all new to me! I've only owned Polaris in the past...but always loved the early Exciters...now I finally have one.
I've got the Bender cold air kit on it, and PSI twins. I got another pipe, but no name on it, it's not stock..but not sure what it is. It's got under 500 on the rebuild, 44mm Mikuni's I'm told, and likes 100octane...so I'm assuming the head is milled. I'm waiting to hear back on the details from the prior, prior owner that did the work.
Thanks for any input, and great job on yours!
I just bought an '87 Exciter yesterday that already has a wide front end, and what appears to be matching wider plastic panels (from Phazer II maybe?). It looked about 1.5" wider per side than his '88 next to it. With these wider plastics, will the Vmax Pogo's still work? Or is the outside diameter too large, and I'll need to look for a set of original plastics. What do you think?
Lastly, I would like to add plastic skis. Do I also need to use Vmax skis if I use the Pogo's and saddles from a Vmax? Am I required to use the Vmax saddles? I guess I'm a Yamaha newbie, so what may seem obvious to some of you...is all new to me! I've only owned Polaris in the past...but always loved the early Exciters...now I finally have one.
I've got the Bender cold air kit on it, and PSI twins. I got another pipe, but no name on it, it's not stock..but not sure what it is. It's got under 500 on the rebuild, 44mm Mikuni's I'm told, and likes 100octane...so I'm assuming the head is milled. I'm waiting to hear back on the details from the prior, prior owner that did the work.
Thanks for any input, and great job on yours!
03viperguy
Moderator
wow, that aux gas tank is slick, very nice work!
Vmax540
VIP Member
Mnhiflyr I had the local machine shop make a set of rail extensions (same as you can buy from most any catalog or aftermarket. I'm not sure what is a "Vmax POGO" ? ! ? But, the Vmax T.S.S. Struts will work since the diameter is the same ! There are only two saddle widths for the T.S.S. the early narrow width 1980~1986 and the 1987 and later so, if you have the narrow and use newer skis you will simply have to add shims/washers to take up the space ! Good luck and have fun !
Thanks for the info. Sorry for the confusion, pogo = strut.
Is there any chance you could take a pic of the drop down bracket you fabricated?
I was looking mine over, and there is a bracket for the rear-most mount that is riveted onto the tunnel, and has 3 holes to choose from. Essentially the track is mounted about 1.5" lower than the running boards utilizing that bracket. It looks stock, but there is also a hole in the tunnel about 2-3" above that which appears to have been used at one time, but now is open. Is that a normal adjustment option, or do you think someone already dropped my skid?
Is there any chance you could take a pic of the drop down bracket you fabricated?
I was looking mine over, and there is a bracket for the rear-most mount that is riveted onto the tunnel, and has 3 holes to choose from. Essentially the track is mounted about 1.5" lower than the running boards utilizing that bracket. It looks stock, but there is also a hole in the tunnel about 2-3" above that which appears to have been used at one time, but now is open. Is that a normal adjustment option, or do you think someone already dropped my skid?
Vmax540
VIP Member
Mnhiflyr The mounting hole 1.5" below the tunnel is the stock position, I simply welded a plate with gussets on the bottom to extend the rear mount down 2". I also, drilled a new front mounting hole as low as I could ~1" ? I believe someone mounted your suspension up in the tunnel for some reason ?
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Thanks for the pic! I've been doing more research, I'm thinking mine was a drag sled at one point.
BigMan76
Member
Couple questions:
1) I was able to get the adjustable TSS Struts off of a '96 Vmax XTC. I have a '96 Phazer II; can I swap out the stock Phazer struts for the XTC struts or will it require any modifications?
2) I also acquired another set of VMax struts (possibly 94-96; they are not the XTC adjustable version) without all the accompanying hardware (only the struts-no knuckles, absorbers, etc.); will these accept the same additional hardware as the '96 VMax XTC?
Thanks.
1) I was able to get the adjustable TSS Struts off of a '96 Vmax XTC. I have a '96 Phazer II; can I swap out the stock Phazer struts for the XTC struts or will it require any modifications?
2) I also acquired another set of VMax struts (possibly 94-96; they are not the XTC adjustable version) without all the accompanying hardware (only the struts-no knuckles, absorbers, etc.); will these accept the same additional hardware as the '96 VMax XTC?
Thanks.