Viper is On the go... Deto Around 7500-8000


When you say that the jugs are colder/hotter, are you taking a temperature reading from them? Do the outside jug temperatures have a baseline temperature that I should look for? I have an temperature gauge made for measuring 2 stroke RC head temps.

Have you looked at your plugs or piston wash to check jetting? Would you mind posting pictures? I am a little unsure how to read piston wash/spark plugs. The way I get understand it the plugs are read by how far up the electrode the staining goes? The pistons should be almost entirely black with just a hint of cleaning where the intake washes the edge? How the heck ya see that without popping the head?

Wish you lived a tad closer so I could check it out in person. I haven't even started mine yet this year but now I think I want to just get the pipes on it. I was thinking I wanted to ride it for a while first to make sure I don't start out with any problems.
 
Well... To me, if i understand correctly. If the plug is nice and brown you are running good jetting. You could take a flashlight and Look down the Holes to see what the wash is looking like. I havn't done My Wot run yet but things seem to be going really good. From PTO to Mag My plugs read this. Brownish(goodsign of proper jetting) brown blackish(not BAD) and brownish for my mag. All cylinders to seem to be running Good.

My Temperture gaudge Tells me my PTO Is running hotter then any other cylinders. i thought the MAG was supposed to run hotter but why Take something apart when Its running too good. The temp Flucuates(changes) from time to time.

Im not sure What they are gonna read On WOT but if the EGT's Read anything over 1250-1300 Degress then im close to burning down.

I jetted what my friend is running. He has the Exact same setup as me so why Not use his jetting specs. By the looks of them they are Right on the money!

The sled can't preform ANy better then how its running Right now. no sign of DCS and a hell of alot power:D

Ill have a Video on this today so stay tuned!

Jeep thearpy: what kind of pipes do you have and did you ever run them and get the same symptoms like i had? either Bad jetting Or the vari-flow was creating the DCS for my sled. What year is your sled, does it have the DCS built in the head?
 
Sounds like your getting close but your not out of the woods yet, on a long WOT pull expect the DCS light. Flutter the gas when coming off a long pull. Ignore your EGTs and just go by plug and piston wash. Have fun least your riding...
 
Kinger, Thanks for the heads up. Once the RPM needle is Maxxed out i will KILL it On WOT to check mains.

If the DCS light does come on, i think i may have a clutching problam. Then i may have to Rev a lil Past the viper timing spike, THEN im Golden!!

Flutter the Gas*?
 
Yeah pump the throttle when decelerating. You don't want to be WOT then slam the carbs shut while the cylinders are at thier hottest. This is where most burn downs happen. Keep pumping as you slow down after a long run. It will keep pumping fuel in to help cool the cylinders.
 
Auji, I have a 2004 Viper ER. So I have the DCS system. I also have a set of viper bender triple pipes. I have never had them on my sled. I dropped my sled off at the dealer to have it pre season prepped (have done that with both every years since new). While it was at the dealer I had the pipes shipped right to the dealer. The head mechanic at the dealer refused to install the pipes. I was out of town while all of this transpired. When I got home I went to the dealer to see what the deal was. Essentially their head mechanic told me that putting the bender pipes on it was the worst thing I could do to my sled and it would ruin it. Told me it would not be trail friendly, would run like crap, wouldn't be dependable, would have to be tuned for every ride and would always be on the edge of failure.

So..... I have been very leary of putting the pipes on.
 
Honestly, That Mechanic dosn't seem to know alot about the piped vipers. Yes they can be Unsafe at times but thats all in your thumb if ya know what im saying. Ask the people on this forum and you will get a better answer then any Dealer Mechanic. the dealer Will Refuse to put Performance parts on just bcause if theres a problam They dont want to be AT fault if there is a problam... I MySelf had a problam, a BIG problam but now my sled is totally different. The only problam i have is keeping gas in it. You just got to know the pipes and what Can happen if used Wrong. The *head Mechanic* is just afraid, thats all. ask anyone running pipes on this forum and you will get the same answer, Pipes are the best for the amount of HP they Produce.... they are Safe and reliable when used right. i havn't have ANY problams with my New Setup. Im probably not the one to ask for the BEST advice for helping but i can sure try and help the best i can.

If you need any Help with anything, Just Pm me. i can help ya threw the install and etc... the best i can.
 
Actually, I value the opinion of the guy that burned his sled down a lot more than the guy that has had no problems.

I really want to ride my sled for a while before I tear it apart. Last season I was getting 9mpg with it. That tells me there is something wrong with it right now? I don't want to add pipes to it to compound the problem before I start. I have pretty much determined I am done with the dealer repairs except for anything I think I can get in under the warranty I have remaining. I have 20 years experiance as an aircraft mechanic so I am pretty confident I can figure it all out, I just don't want a spendy learning curve.

Here is what I have for instructions to install my pipes; http://snowmobile.off-road.com/snowmobile/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=195522
 
9mpg is way off for a stock viper. you are right in assuming something may be up with it. on my 03 viper I have NEVER gotten that low of mpg. I agree with your idea of getting it straight in stock form, THEN modding it :)
 
Actually your mechanic is correct, pipes are going to hurt fuel economy, make it more finiky, and hurt reliability slightly. However the degree of this is left to the owner, if you do them right with the SRX base gasket, opticool, head mod, rear heat exchanger, proper tuning and monitoring with EGTs then they can be reliable. Some vipers have seen more then 5000 miles of performance with no issue. The ones that pop are the are the people that rush them and don't take the time to tune it right and cannot stay off the throttle when freshly installed.

The only draw back I saw to pipes was poor fuel economy (well poor for a yamaha bought like any cat or skidoo, 8-10mpg), and a long pull across a lake the EGT's can just keep climbing and you have to have the retraint to let off. Otherwise they are bar none the best performance mod you can do to the viper.
 
I'm at 7800 miles with pipes. I bought it brand new leftover 03 and piped it before it ever hit the snow. I burned down at the 800 mile mark because of the the stock head and compression. Once the head mod I have not had a burn down since. Personally I think when the pipes first started on Vipers to become installed the pipe makers were recommending the jetting to lean. Possibly more of a drag racer setup and all the trail guys burnt down. As tuners and manufacurers figured out the jetting less and less burn downs occur. I think the head mod is very very important for longevity.
 
a lot has to do with the proper setup and KNOWING WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!! I dont have enough knowledge about jetting etc to ever want to risk it on a sled like the viper that has a few things to have to work around.
 
well, i finally got a video uploaded. Shes still not done yet, i got LOADS of belt Squeel i need to fix. It is a new belt and usually everytime i put on a newbelt Even when it was brand new i would still get squeel. Notice it at the end of the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbgf2esAjnI

by the way, yesterday i got a ticket for driving on the road.. LOL!!!! hahaha o well
 
i ran bender pipes on a viper for 6000 problem free miles ... take the head off and send it to bender , if you really really dont want to , then your going to have to jet that one cylinder fatter , in your first post the jetting your buddy is running is right on for a uncut head , if you get the head cut then jet it the same all the way arcoss ...bottom line .....sell the holtzman !!!!
 
I bet the belt squeel has something to do witht he washers that act as shims in the secondary
 
motor

when you put the engine back in did you check the center to center and the offseton the clutches?
 
Yes, we did lign up the clucths. I think where my secondary bolt came loose and Came out... I only found one shim but Neil(Powervalve-700) took out his bolt and i think the right aroumnt of shims needed... If not illl look at it, How many shims are there supposed to be, 3 and one thick one?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top