daman
New member
hey you may as well come in for a 
before ya leave..LOL
before ya leave..LOL
daman
New member
Good night!!!!!!!!
you know some people don't have to work in the morning!!!!
you know some people don't have to work in the morning!!!!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!jUST GOT OUT OF THE HOT TUB.RELAXING IN THERE.-12 CELCIUS OUTSIDE AND THE STARS ARE BRIGHT TONIGHT.
HI, I will drop in also...
I just check my valves and when i check flush with finger it's ok. (adjusted with under 900rpm method). I can push two valves more up around 3mm BUT one valve will not go up more? Problem? Need to open anyways.
They are clean...
I just check my valves and when i check flush with finger it's ok. (adjusted with under 900rpm method). I can push two valves more up around 3mm BUT one valve will not go up more? Problem? Need to open anyways.
They are clean...
daman
New member
Reimond said:
Sure.....
you may have that one too tight. i would back it off some so you
don't pull a valve,do it yamaha's way...
Exciterfan
Member
Hey Blue,
My buddy Jim Bouwman (who lives near the 59er) fixes pulled through powervalves all the time. He fixes them for Winnipeg Sport & Leisure all the time.
This is an option for you insead of buying new valves!!!! Let me know if you're interested and I'll hook you up with him.
We're going riding this Saturday (as long as the weather cooperates). Heading to the Piniwa Radar Runs. Why don't you join us and really see what the old SRX will do!!!! I think it's three runs for $10.00.
I had the old SXR running 95.6 MPH on the GPS last week (Not Bad). Found out that I must be the only Yamaha owner whose speedo is actually reading low by a good 5KPH!!!! Mine is not a Dream-o-meter!! She is running very well now and I'm dead even with my son's 2003 MXZ600HO (which is a very fast sled). I couldn't touch him last year!!!!
Let me know if you're interested in the Saturday ride. I think Allan is coming.
Len
My buddy Jim Bouwman (who lives near the 59er) fixes pulled through powervalves all the time. He fixes them for Winnipeg Sport & Leisure all the time.
This is an option for you insead of buying new valves!!!! Let me know if you're interested and I'll hook you up with him.
We're going riding this Saturday (as long as the weather cooperates). Heading to the Piniwa Radar Runs. Why don't you join us and really see what the old SRX will do!!!! I think it's three runs for $10.00.
I had the old SXR running 95.6 MPH on the GPS last week (Not Bad). Found out that I must be the only Yamaha owner whose speedo is actually reading low by a good 5KPH!!!! Mine is not a Dream-o-meter!! She is running very well now and I'm dead even with my son's 2003 MXZ600HO (which is a very fast sled). I couldn't touch him last year!!!!
Let me know if you're interested in the Saturday ride. I think Allan is coming.
Len
daman said:Sure.....
you may have that one too tight. i would back it off some so you
don't pull a valve,do it yamaha's way...
I meant... Two valves go more up than one (center). When i push valves to TDC with finger, two goes up around 3mm more than one in center cylinder.
So my question is: is there different valves available that have been mixed now? I took center valve apart and there is no problem
daman
New member
No ,,valves were all the same(600 to 600,700 to 700) you must
have cable length issues..(adjustment)
have cable length issues..(adjustment)
No i dont have cable issue.
I try to explain another way (sorry my english is not so good):
I turn servo to open position. Valves are up and flush and even. Then if i press valves more up with finger, two goes in cylinder 3mm more and one will not move.
I try to explain another way (sorry my english is not so good):
I turn servo to open position. Valves are up and flush and even. Then if i press valves more up with finger, two goes in cylinder 3mm more and one will not move.
daman
New member
If it ain't a cable adjusted problem i dunno then, take it appart and
see whats going on in there....
see whats going on in there....
Im just trying to understand the concept of adjusting the powervalve. I have the manual and ive read every post on here and totallyamaha about them and it still isnt clicking.
Some say to take the pipe off and feel the valve and adjust them as needed. Then the manual says to hook a battery up to adjust them. Do I need to buy a seperate wiring harness for this. I see a part #.
When you adjust them do they have to be open or closed or somewhere inbetween. Ive seen different rpms that there supposed to be at.
Then I see this 2-2.5 mm setting and see the powervalve housing loosened with a clearance. Is this with the servo open or closed?
basically I just need some help on undertanding the concept.
I think my valves are sticking and I cleaned them and it didnt help. I need to idle down for the powervalves to close sometimes.
Thanks!
Some say to take the pipe off and feel the valve and adjust them as needed. Then the manual says to hook a battery up to adjust them. Do I need to buy a seperate wiring harness for this. I see a part #.
When you adjust them do they have to be open or closed or somewhere inbetween. Ive seen different rpms that there supposed to be at.
Then I see this 2-2.5 mm setting and see the powervalve housing loosened with a clearance. Is this with the servo open or closed?
basically I just need some help on undertanding the concept.
I think my valves are sticking and I cleaned them and it didnt help. I need to idle down for the powervalves to close sometimes.
Thanks!
change_up
New member
Adjusting the valves is pretty simple... though I have had my issues with them lol... it is very straight forward.
First thing is first, applying 12v to the servo via a battery opens the servo motor to the same position as idling down to below 900 rpm then shutting the sled off. You only need to get the servo to full open by using only one of these methods. I personally find the 12v easier but that is because I like to adjust my valves flush with the exhaust port. This is just personal preference.
1. Adjusting the valves flush to the exhaust port: This is the way I have done them in the past. This involves taking your pipes and pipe manifolds off the cylinders, applying 12v power to the YPVS check coupler (there is a little 3 plug connecter by the servo in the shape of a triangle... this is the coupler I am talking about. You can make a simple tool for this without having to buy a peice from yamaha... they won't sell you the tester anyway, PM me if you would like some info on how to make the tool) Once you have the pipe manifolds off the cylinders, stick your finger inside the exhaust port and you will be able to feel the valve. You need to adjust the cable at the servo housing to adjust the valve either up or down from it's original position until it is absolutely flush with the top of the exhaust port. You will know how it works once you get in there. Very easy
2. Adjusting using the 2.5mm method. This is the method that yamaha suggests you adjust the powervalves. A Powervalve tester tool is not required here as you can leave your pipes on to adjust this way. You simply need to slow the idle down to below 900 rpm and shut the sled down. This will leave the servo in the full open position where the valves should be at their highest position in the exhaust port. To adjust the valves using this method, once the servo is fully opened, loosen the two allen head bolts from the small half of the powervalve housing, I like to use 2 2.5 mm allen keys to stick between the housings as this keeps the housing half perfectly square with the other half. Adjust your cables at the servo motor housing until the gap that you placed the allen keys in is tight to the allen keys and there is no slack left in the cable.
Which ever method you prefer to use is up to you. I prefer to adjust using the "flush with the port" method because in my experience it seems as if you can never get all three valves in sync with eachother using the 2.5mm method... there is always a little bit of variance between all three valves when I try to do it this way. You may have better luck.
The great thing about using the 2.5 mm method is that a) it is the way that yamaha recommends you do it and
b) it takes about 1/4 the time as adjusting flush with the port
Again you can PM me if you have any more questions and i'll see what I can do to help you out.
First thing is first, applying 12v to the servo via a battery opens the servo motor to the same position as idling down to below 900 rpm then shutting the sled off. You only need to get the servo to full open by using only one of these methods. I personally find the 12v easier but that is because I like to adjust my valves flush with the exhaust port. This is just personal preference.
1. Adjusting the valves flush to the exhaust port: This is the way I have done them in the past. This involves taking your pipes and pipe manifolds off the cylinders, applying 12v power to the YPVS check coupler (there is a little 3 plug connecter by the servo in the shape of a triangle... this is the coupler I am talking about. You can make a simple tool for this without having to buy a peice from yamaha... they won't sell you the tester anyway, PM me if you would like some info on how to make the tool) Once you have the pipe manifolds off the cylinders, stick your finger inside the exhaust port and you will be able to feel the valve. You need to adjust the cable at the servo housing to adjust the valve either up or down from it's original position until it is absolutely flush with the top of the exhaust port. You will know how it works once you get in there. Very easy
2. Adjusting using the 2.5mm method. This is the method that yamaha suggests you adjust the powervalves. A Powervalve tester tool is not required here as you can leave your pipes on to adjust this way. You simply need to slow the idle down to below 900 rpm and shut the sled down. This will leave the servo in the full open position where the valves should be at their highest position in the exhaust port. To adjust the valves using this method, once the servo is fully opened, loosen the two allen head bolts from the small half of the powervalve housing, I like to use 2 2.5 mm allen keys to stick between the housings as this keeps the housing half perfectly square with the other half. Adjust your cables at the servo motor housing until the gap that you placed the allen keys in is tight to the allen keys and there is no slack left in the cable.
Which ever method you prefer to use is up to you. I prefer to adjust using the "flush with the port" method because in my experience it seems as if you can never get all three valves in sync with eachother using the 2.5mm method... there is always a little bit of variance between all three valves when I try to do it this way. You may have better luck.
The great thing about using the 2.5 mm method is that a) it is the way that yamaha recommends you do it and
b) it takes about 1/4 the time as adjusting flush with the port
Again you can PM me if you have any more questions and i'll see what I can do to help you out.
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
Heres what I did and to the best of my knowledge it is right. (Not Responsible for damage)lmaolololololol!!!!! Idle your sled down to 900 rpm with the cover of he servo open so you can see what it does when you turn down the idle speed. The servo should pull on the valves. Then with the throttle, add some rpm, and then let off. Do you see how the servo pulls on and then does not pull on the cables? When the sled is at idle below 900 rpm the valves are held open. This is when you should mark the servo and the housing to make sure the servo stays open. Now you know where the servo should be when the valves are open. Then and only then do you loosen up the outer housing of the power valve to allow you to take two 2.5 mm allen wrenches and put in the gap that you have created in between the housings. When you have the allen wrenches tighten up till they stay between the housings you have the 2.5mm gap that is within Yamaha specs. Then you loosen up the cables on the servo housing and turn them so that the cable is tight enough to not have any slack in the cable that is running to the valve, but not tight enough to move the servo from its fully open position. Then you take the allen wrenches out of the housing and tighten up the housing. You now have created a gap that is in your cable that is 2.5 mm. So your valves do not bottom out on the housing when the servo opens it self up. If you leave to much of a gap in your cable the valve will not fully open and you will have performance issues!!! Take you time and it is easy. Some people like to take of the headers so they can feel that the valves are within spec. Meaning that they are flush with the side of the exhaust port. This is when the feeling method comes into play, but the most accurate is the yamaha spec way. IF I AM WRONG IN ANYTHING I SAID SOMEONE CORRECT ME. I DON'T WANT MY VAVLES TO BE ADJUSTED THE WRONG WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I hope this helps!!!!!!
lmaolololololol!!!!! Idle your sled down to 900 rpm with the cover of he servo open so you can see what it does when you turn down the idle speed. The servo should pull on the valves. Then with the throttle, add some rpm, and then let off. Do you see how the servo pulls on and then does not pull on the cables? When the sled is at idle below 900 rpm the valves are held open. This is when you should mark the servo and the housing to make sure the servo stays open. Now you know where the servo should be when the valves are open. Then and only then do you loosen up the outer housing of the power valve to allow you to take two 2.5 mm allen wrenches and put in the gap that you have created in between the housings. When you have the allen wrenches tighten up till they stay between the housings you have the 2.5mm gap that is within Yamaha specs. Then you loosen up the cables on the servo housing and turn them so that the cable is tight enough to not have any slack in the cable that is running to the valve, but not tight enough to move the servo from its fully open position. Then you take the allen wrenches out of the housing and tighten up the housing. You now have created a gap that is in your cable that is 2.5 mm. So your valves do not bottom out on the housing when the servo opens it self up. If you leave to much of a gap in your cable the valve will not fully open and you will have performance issues!!! Take you time and it is easy. Some people like to take of the headers so they can feel that the valves are within spec. Meaning that they are flush with the side of the exhaust port. This is when the feeling method comes into play, but the most accurate is the yamaha spec way. IF I AM WRONG IN ANYTHING I SAID SOMEONE CORRECT ME. I DON'T WANT MY VAVLES TO BE ADJUSTED THE WRONG WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I hope this helps!!!!!!
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
daman
New member
Nice explanation guy's and great pic. riverrunner...
it's all a matter of personal preferance on this issue, flush vs. yamaha's
it's all a matter of personal preferance on this issue, flush vs. yamaha's
Last edited:
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Yes I agree.The 2.5 metho is easier and proper way to do it.
Since it is still snowmobile season- I think I am going to try the battery method. Does yamaha sell the wiring harness for this- or do I have to make that?
I have about 10 hours of reading info on powervalves and I feel like I finally understand it. I bought my sled a few weeks ago and the owner said since he has bought it that after you run wide open for awhile- if you stop and try to start again it will bog- you need to let it idle down and it will be fine.
I think this is the powervalves not adjusted correctly. btw its a 99 srx700 with about 1600 miles on it.
I so appreciate the info you guys have posted. There is tons of posts about the subject and I did search- I just needed it posted together as options on what to do. thanks
I have about 10 hours of reading info on powervalves and I feel like I finally understand it. I bought my sled a few weeks ago and the owner said since he has bought it that after you run wide open for awhile- if you stop and try to start again it will bog- you need to let it idle down and it will be fine.
I think this is the powervalves not adjusted correctly. btw its a 99 srx700 with about 1600 miles on it.
I so appreciate the info you guys have posted. There is tons of posts about the subject and I did search- I just needed it posted together as options on what to do. thanks