power valves..no big deal here.....

Ill clean them real good and then flip them. I wonder if this is why after runnin wide open for awhile that when I would stop it would bog down unless i let the sled idle down.
 

Thanks for the help. Now I gotta figure out how to rig up the wiring for the battery to adjust the powervalves. I will take the pipes off after the season but Im afraid of snappin a header bolt and bein w/o the sled.
 
well i cleaned and flipped the powervalves and all i have to say is wow- its a new machine. I then adjusted the valves using the yamaha 2.5 method and going under 900 rpms and marking the servo.

I still have a problem with the sled. After running wide open for abit and then going off the throttle the sled will bog real bad after trying to go back on the gas.

If you are wide open and then stop the rpms are around 3k. You need to let it idle down to around 2100 for the sled to ride clean again. Otherwise it will just bogg down.

I dont think this is a powervalve problem. It could possibly be a carb problem or maybe a tors problem. I just bought the sled about a month ago and it was like this when i bought it. thanks
 
I think the problem is the tors. Now I gotta figure out how to adjust it or rewire it.
 
If it bogs on acceleration like that and it takes awhile to idle down then it might very well be that your carbs are dirty.... When was the last time that they were cleaned??
 
mine does basically the same.Noticed it more when it is warmer out.My carbs were cleaned and adjusted the fuel screws to 1 1/2 turns out.When it is at idle and you pin it,it sort of bogs or feels like maybe it doesn't fire on all three.If I snap the throttle a couple of times and then punch it..it is ok.I also re-jetted 2 sizes up to what the 2001 SRX's are stock,this stops the DCS from coming on to many times.
 
Pjw350 said:
I still have a problem with the sled. After running wide open for abit and then going off the throttle the sled will bog real bad after trying to go back on the gas.
Click to expand...
whats your wrap at??

sounds like she's not back shifting enough?..
 
daman said:
whats your wrap at??

sounds like she's not back shifting enough?..
Click to expand...

i definitely think its something with the tors. I printed the info about the tors from the cd manual and its not much help. I adjusted a screw with a spring in alil bit and the problem seems to go away. We really dont have any snow so its hard to ride it now.

what is a wrap?
 
Pjw350 said:
I still have a problem with the sled. After running wide open for abit and then going off the throttle the sled will bog real bad after trying to go back on the gas.
Click to expand...
If your able to go WO then it ain't TORS,it's eather carburetion or clutching.

need to find out what your clutch setup's are..
 
well now im going to have to wait till next year to get some snow to test out the sled to see what its doin. I loosened the throttle cable. The bogging seems to have gone away. Could that have solved my problem?
 
Pjw350 said:
well now im going to have to wait till next year to get some snow to test out the sled to see what its doin. I loosened the throttle cable. The bogging seems to have gone away. Could that have solved my problem?
Click to expand...

Yes that definately could have solved your problem. If the throttle cable is too tight it causes the TORS to activate and will create the bog because the ignition cuts out. It is a safety feature so that if the throttle sticks, the ignition cuts out. It works with two sensors, one mounted on the carb rack and one on the throttle lever. If the carb switch is open and the throttle lever switch is closed, the system cuts the ignition.
 
Thanks buddy- now i have to just wait until the snow falls to make sure that I fixed the problem. I appreciate your input!
 
When adjusting with the 2.5mm allen wrenches, do you just keep them gaskets in between the two housing? when adjusted right, does the freeplay stop just enough for the 2.5mm to fit in?
 
Don't remove any gaskets,get the 2.5 allans between and adjust.If the servo moves back...you basically have it,back up a tad on the cable,move servo back and fine tune again till you have it without the servo moving.I myself made a template(2.5mm thick)shaped like a
"U" so it just slides down the outside of the bolts and still firm on top.I found this easier then trying to play with 2 allan wrenches.
 
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