bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
well it is that time of year one slowly starts to re-furbish a used sled and make it into a new one again.This 2002 SRX has 3800 miles on it now,but will be updating things on it like I did on my 2001SXR.
I have the old skid out and the old track.Picked up a 2001 long travelled SXR suspension this weekend.Tore my old skid into pieces,so now I have extra parts.This skid I picked up has had the shocks re-valved for a more comfortable ride.It also comes with max. performance adjustable transfer rods and max. performance marginal small wheel kit up front.The hyfax is graphite and in super condition.I am using the new w-arm I bought last Feb.,since it is still in great condition.I will have it reinforced as well as 2 other w-arms I have that are cracked.They will be re-welded and beefed up.
I am going to paint all pieces blue instead of the standard black from Yamaha.This includes the w-arm.the a-arm,mounting brackets,transfer rods,etc.
Today I went and ordered new bearings for everything on the sled.Also ordered 7.5" rear wheels and 5.375 Polaris sized idlers for all 6 of them.
As most of you already know,I purchased a Predator 1" 6 pitch track a while back already.
I already took the bushings out of the front suspension shock,which were loose already and put in needle bearings in their place,same as the rear shock has.This will make a big difference in the play of the shock.Now the shock can work like it is supposed to and not flop around.Bethaviper has suggested to do this.
I notice on the sled if I put a level on top of the tunnel,I have a 3/8" drop to the right side(chaincase side)But if I lay on the floor and line up the bottom of the heat exchanger on the running board,it is perfectly parallel with the one on the chaincase side.So maybe the tunnel is straight.I started thinking more up front the problem could be.Thinking shocks not adjusted equally,but they are.Trailing arms are perfectly straight to.If I measure off the floor to the top of the trailing arm where it is bolted to the frame,just beside where the footrests are,the distance is 3/8" lower on the right side(chaincase side).Mind you if I grab the arm and pull up on it,the front suspension moves accordingly and I have it level.If I put a level on the front bumper,it shows lower on that side to.So question is,to get the front end level..what do I have to do.Do I remove the front control arms and check to see if there are same lengths for both sides.Would this help you think.Trying to figure how to level the front end.Do I have to block the tunnel right at the point where trailing arm is fastened on the left and torgue the right side up and twist it slightly.Easier said then done I think.Anyone ever dealt with something similar and or have a suggestion for me.It is only 3/8",but since I have the skid out,now it the time I could try something...I don't no.
My suspension setup will look similar to my 2001SXR suspension with the new wheels on.
I have the old skid out and the old track.Picked up a 2001 long travelled SXR suspension this weekend.Tore my old skid into pieces,so now I have extra parts.This skid I picked up has had the shocks re-valved for a more comfortable ride.It also comes with max. performance adjustable transfer rods and max. performance marginal small wheel kit up front.The hyfax is graphite and in super condition.I am using the new w-arm I bought last Feb.,since it is still in great condition.I will have it reinforced as well as 2 other w-arms I have that are cracked.They will be re-welded and beefed up.
I am going to paint all pieces blue instead of the standard black from Yamaha.This includes the w-arm.the a-arm,mounting brackets,transfer rods,etc.
Today I went and ordered new bearings for everything on the sled.Also ordered 7.5" rear wheels and 5.375 Polaris sized idlers for all 6 of them.
As most of you already know,I purchased a Predator 1" 6 pitch track a while back already.
I already took the bushings out of the front suspension shock,which were loose already and put in needle bearings in their place,same as the rear shock has.This will make a big difference in the play of the shock.Now the shock can work like it is supposed to and not flop around.Bethaviper has suggested to do this.
I notice on the sled if I put a level on top of the tunnel,I have a 3/8" drop to the right side(chaincase side)But if I lay on the floor and line up the bottom of the heat exchanger on the running board,it is perfectly parallel with the one on the chaincase side.So maybe the tunnel is straight.I started thinking more up front the problem could be.Thinking shocks not adjusted equally,but they are.Trailing arms are perfectly straight to.If I measure off the floor to the top of the trailing arm where it is bolted to the frame,just beside where the footrests are,the distance is 3/8" lower on the right side(chaincase side).Mind you if I grab the arm and pull up on it,the front suspension moves accordingly and I have it level.If I put a level on the front bumper,it shows lower on that side to.So question is,to get the front end level..what do I have to do.Do I remove the front control arms and check to see if there are same lengths for both sides.Would this help you think.Trying to figure how to level the front end.Do I have to block the tunnel right at the point where trailing arm is fastened on the left and torgue the right side up and twist it slightly.Easier said then done I think.Anyone ever dealt with something similar and or have a suggestion for me.It is only 3/8",but since I have the skid out,now it the time I could try something...I don't no.
My suspension setup will look similar to my 2001SXR suspension with the new wheels on.
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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Sharp looking sled!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
This is just the beginning for it.The SRX is getting a makeover supreme.Thanks kinger.
By the way ,I held a hell of a time getting that friggin drive axle bearing off.When I went to see Exciterfan and pic up the skid,he tried with a torx socket and got one set screw loose.The torx broke on the second set screw and was stuck in the set screw.When I got home I must of played around for hours to grind down the screw.Used my dremel with cutting disc and slowly cut away at the set screw location.Finally took a screwdriver type of pry bar and put it behind the bearing and nailed it with the hammer and finally the bearing flew off,I was relieved to say the least.
The jouney is just beginning for me here and will eventually get there.Money is getting really short now and have other bills to pay off instead of things for this sled.But it will be worth it I think at the end.Just want the sled to be dependable and since I will be doing the work on it,I'll feel better because I will take my time and do it right.
By the way ,I held a hell of a time getting that friggin drive axle bearing off.When I went to see Exciterfan and pic up the skid,he tried with a torx socket and got one set screw loose.The torx broke on the second set screw and was stuck in the set screw.When I got home I must of played around for hours to grind down the screw.Used my dremel with cutting disc and slowly cut away at the set screw location.Finally took a screwdriver type of pry bar and put it behind the bearing and nailed it with the hammer and finally the bearing flew off,I was relieved to say the least.
The jouney is just beginning for me here and will eventually get there.Money is getting really short now and have other bills to pay off instead of things for this sled.But it will be worth it I think at the end.Just want the sled to be dependable and since I will be doing the work on it,I'll feel better because I will take my time and do it right.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
daman
New member
Hey don't forget to drill and put grease zerks here where the W arms bolts
in..
in..
Exciterfan
Member
Don't you just love it. You fight with a bearing for days and days and it doesn't budge and then boom it just flies off!!!!! :>)
Now I have to buy a new Torx socket!!!! Oh well!! Glad we could help you out at least a little.
Now I have to buy a new Torx socket!!!! Oh well!! Glad we could help you out at least a little.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
cheers Exciterfan..how do you like em gas prices now.$1.19.9/litre.Going up to 1.25/litre before long weekend.This has got to hurt us all now.What in hell is the world coming to.At that price sled would cost $56.75 to fill up.My mistake,that is with regular gas.Premium gas would be more...$62.00ish.
$100 plus driving days ahead on long hauls.That is insane.
$100 plus driving days ahead on long hauls.That is insane.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
on the new mounting brackets I did that daman,but one of the zerks fell off.On these I'll epoxy them zerks in I think.
change_up
New member
Fell off???? didn't you thread them in??? lol
Gas is only $1.059/litre here today
Gas is only $1.059/litre here today
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Well went into the garage tonight to take apart my clutch and play around with the Heelclickers and the spring.The clutch tool I purchased from Rich a while back sure does the trick in guiding the clutch cover and compressing the HC spring all in one.It is unbelievable how that long spring compresses right down to like 2 inches or less.Hard to believe how them weights will do that to the spring,but I guess it does.I am looking into purchasing a 50/38 Dalton Helix from a member on here.But the question I want to ask is..when you load up the tip of the HC weight to 7 grams,the head of the bolt will rub on it's way up to the roller.This is when the 2 new washers(white ones) are used when mounting the weight to it's bolt.The question actually is can I put one of the old washers on one side(left) and put a white washer along with one of the old washers on the right side?This actually moves the weight over enough to clear when the weight is raising up against the roller.Now this will make a little more play of the weight on the mounting bolt.Will loose about .10mm.Basically there is some play down there in order for the weight not to bind anyways.Will this extra play cause the weight to move around more side to side under load.I think once the weight moves against the roller,it should be ok.Other way around this,some guys grind some of the head of the screw in the tip of the HC. so it clears..but really don't want to do that.I want to get this procedure down pat.What have some of you guys down in this case.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
yes change_up,I did thread them in,must of over tightened the one and it wouldn't hold good after.
Here are some pics of the clutch.@ pics are fuzzy.They show weight with black washer on left..white and black washer on right side.Next shows the white washers from the kit on each side.The next 2 pics show how high the weight goes with the b-w-b setup,and the w-w setup.Notice the weight does not lift all the way because it hits the side on the w-w setup.I may have to grind a little on the clutch where the heel comes in contact with just to be sure the weight goes all the way out.
Here are some pics of the clutch.@ pics are fuzzy.They show weight with black washer on left..white and black washer on right side.Next shows the white washers from the kit on each side.The next 2 pics show how high the weight goes with the b-w-b setup,and the w-w setup.Notice the weight does not lift all the way because it hits the side on the w-w setup.I may have to grind a little on the clutch where the heel comes in contact with just to be sure the weight goes all the way out.
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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
So my clutch set-up will be as follows:
Heelclicker's
4.3 grams in heel
7 grams in tip
Red HC spring
50/38 Dalton Helix
Green Secondary spring
Wrap at 60 or 70..not sure until testing
This is my starting point,should be close with it I hope.Got 5 more months before the snow flies....damn.
LOL!
Heelclicker's
4.3 grams in heel
7 grams in tip
Red HC spring
50/38 Dalton Helix
Green Secondary spring
Wrap at 60 or 70..not sure until testing
This is my starting point,should be close with it I hope.Got 5 more months before the snow flies....damn.
LOL!
daman
New member
Ride you lawn mower...lol
Exciterfan
Member
The HeelClicker instructions actually tell you that you might have to grind off some of your clutch to allow the weights to pivot all the way. Use your dremel tool. It's not hard to do.
I'm thinking I loosened that bearing for you!!!! :>)
I'm thinking I loosened that bearing for you!!!! :>)
change_up
New member
Yes when I ran the heelclickers on my sx I had to remove about 1/4" of material where the shoulder of the weight comes into contact with the clutch and that gave me lots of tolerance for larger washers etc.
Your clutching setup sounds close to what most guys are running with the heelclickers. You should be close. I think i might give them another whirl and see how they work again. Didn't have the best luck with my sx.
I was thinking about how much I wanted to go sledding the other day... then I got thinking about spending days at a time on the lake or at the beach. Then I got thinking about how I could do both at the same time. lol Spring fever.
Your clutching setup sounds close to what most guys are running with the heelclickers. You should be close. I think i might give them another whirl and see how they work again. Didn't have the best luck with my sx.
I was thinking about how much I wanted to go sledding the other day... then I got thinking about spending days at a time on the lake or at the beach. Then I got thinking about how I could do both at the same time. lol Spring fever.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
you getting excited over a bearing there exciterfan or what?????Ok Ok you loosened it ...are you happy now...LOL.I'll give you a call when I get another stubborn one.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Wt are you smoking there change_up.Stay away from the gas fumes to,that will make you hallucinate.Before you know it,you will be riding that sled of yours right into the lake...thinking it is snow.LMAO.Happy floating dude.
change_up
New member
lol no smoke. Just mad cow disease for sledders.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I was mentioning earlier that if I put a total of 7 grams in the tip the head of the bolt that mounts the tip will hit on it's way up or out.If I rearrange the washers so that I use thinner washer on left of weight and thicker washers on right of weight,the weight will shift over and the bolt will not hit.Using new white washers and old black washers for build up.But seems I will have more slack where the weight mounts to the bolt/bushing.About .50mm more and is that going to be a problem.I'll have to look for some thicker washers to make up the difference then.