Project SRX has begun

The camber on the front end of the SRX is on the positive side.About 1 degree as far as I can see on the angle finder.
Now I will be installing Simmons skis with dual runners.Instructions say to run the camber at 0 camber so ski will sit flat on the 2 runners.The only way to do this without going crazy and adjusting rod(taking off and on many times)many times is to make both upper and lower rods the same length.The factory specs show upper rod length is 460.2mm and the lower rod length is
458.7 mm.Plus or minus 0.5 mm.Since the bottom is shorter,this creates positive camber.Making both rods the same length should bring camber to ZERO.This should be all I should have to do to achieve the 0 camber.
 
Because of the angle of the spindle on the snowmobile, the ski tips as it turns. This action puts more downforce (pressure) directly on the "inside" runner. This creates better "bite" when cornering. The ski is also self-centering when in forward motion. This means that it tracks true. This is accomplished through the basic design of the ski. It is similar to an upright triangle. The top point being the spindle and the bottom two points being the runners. As pressure or down force is put on the top of the triangle, the natural tendency is for the bottom corners to level out or take equal pressure thus creating the very stable feeling unique to the dual keel design. This also allows the Flexi-Ski to track true and not follow the ruts left by other skis.
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My top control rod measures 20 .312" center to center of the mount holes.The SRX manual shows the control rod is 18.118 ".That is around 2 " difference,so I don't kmow what gives.If mine were 2" shorter,they wouldn't even get close to the trailing arm.Must be a manual error.
Anyways ,if I take the bottom control rod and make it the same length as the top one...should get me close to 0 camber.
 

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bluemonster1 said:
My top control rod measures 20 .312" center to center of the mount holes.The SRX manual shows the control rod is 18.118 ".That is around 2 " difference,so I don't kmow what gives.If mine were 2" shorter,they wouldn't even get close to the trailing arm.Must be a manual error.
Anyways ,if I take the bottom control rod and make it the same length as the top one...should get me close to 0 camber.
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You sure that the manual doesn't give that number as control rod length ONLY without the adjustable ball joints on the end? I dont have a manual nearby so i cant tell you for sure but i just thought of it and wanted to ask.
 
anyways could someone let me know about the front shocks.Are they needle bearing with seals and why doesn't the collars turn when in there?Are they seized and how could I release them without doing damage ? Thanks.
 
Also checked the sway bar arms,one will rotate round,the other is stuck and won't move.Same problem like the shocks have.Do I have to soak them parts in penetrating oil or something..mother's oil.Need to get these parts moving again.Is it possible without replacing with new.
 
the more look at them,the more they look like they are solid.The metal collar being a part of it.Metal bushing will not turn or come out.It is incorporated into the rubber bushing,so I guess that is the way they are made.No use removing anything.I guess when I install shocks back on to frame and trailing arm,leave the bolts loose until I line the shock up into it's place.Install control arms and then tighten the shock bolts and nuts.
 
On the front stabilizer bar,got one of the collars off one of the joints,the other is destroyed..can't remove it.So will order another collar.I guess it is rusted on for life.
 
Well got some prices on #40 pilot jets,they are $12.52 a piece.Will switch from the stock 42.5 pilots in the carbs now.This is the 2001 SRX spec.
Got prices on the Heim joints for the control arms. Heim joint price is
$31.28 for the bottom arm,but can you believe they want $64.46 for the Heim joint on the upper control arms.Why in earth would the upper one be more then twice the price and they are smaller yet...CRAZY.Yamaha has got to be ripping us the consumers off sometimes I think.
 
Does anyone here have the specs for the radius arms..ie..the length from center to center of each rod.I need to make the upper and lower rods the samre length in order to get 0 camber for my Simmons Ski's.The manual on this cannot be right,it shows around 2 " less length on the diagram then mine are.
 
I picked up the Heim joint for the lower radius arm.Got the specs fpr the arms to and have them all ready to go.Also picked up some carb parts,including #40 Pilot jets.Went thru the carbs tonight,all cleaned out,installed the pilots,checked the floats which were good and sync is good to.So this is taken care of for now.I set my fuel screws for 11/4 turns out ,had them at 11/2 turns before.Stock is 11/8 turns out.
Got a couple of coats of paint on the trailing arms,will put a few more on yet,then clear coat.Will be ordering new decals for them arms from World of PowerSports.Things getting done slowly,but surely.
 
Well I finally got my trailing arms all finished.Started with 2 coats of primer,then 7 coats of Blue paint,followed by 3 coats of clear coat.Should last me 3 to 4 years or more.The ones on my SXR went thru 2 seasons and the paint is still holding.Also my decals are in town for the arms,courier came to the house,but no one was home to receive them.So next week I'll get them.
Here are some pics of the ski's and arms.Will assemble the front end now and get to the task of ski alignment next,which isn't always a simple procedure.
 

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boohoo

Yep daman.You never have anything good to say to me daman...LOL.
12 coats ,so when I hit a tree,the trailing arm will just bounce off it.
 
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Well ski's are finally set up level so that they sit flat on the 2 carbides per ski.Working on toe out next.Will give only 1/8" toe out with the Simmon's Ski's the most once sled is weighted down to equal my weight and gear and full tank of gas.Some pics of the front end.Front end is up higher because of flipping the shock brackets and switching sides with them.You can notice it and compare to my Avatar pic the control rods by the way they are sitting now.Must of gained at least 3/4 ",but didn't measure prior.
 

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to much time on my hands!!!!!!!LOL

DONE DEAL.Front end alignment is all done now with the Simmon's Ski's.They are sitting level on the floor,have 1/8" tow out and shimmed the ski's so that they sit slightly back on the rear of the carbides.
NEXT: Draining the ani-freeze and replacing it with new.Will be installing the carbs and a new air intake silencer(since the original was cracked by the previous owner).Then it will be off to the clutching from there,the Heelclicker set-up,alignment of clutches.
Can't wait to fire it up and take her out on the grass for a drag.Is that snow that I smell,it ain't to far away now.Maybe 2 1/2 months or less if lucky.
 

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