2000 SRX summer build

If this skid as he posted it is it is fresh and will be awsome. Also got all the shocks out and ready to send to Bruce. We'll see how this all goes if I get this new skid.
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A little trick I found to get off a stubborn primary is to tip sled on its side and pour a little water down the hole before screwing in the clutch puller,,, hydraulic pressure does wonders.... Pops off without the big clunk.... I personally would not recommend using an air wrench, as it may put unwanted stress on crank bearings....
 
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00srxwherry, that w-arm is not bad. I would just get it welded and reinforced. It will be better than new. if you go with a new skid, unless you reinforce the w-arm it will crack just like yours. I have broke 3 of them on the 3 different SRX's i have had and i have had them welded and reinforced.
 
Thanks For the advise on the primary Whammy I'll try that. As far as the W/ bar goes it has already been welded on and I just dont trust it to be welded again. I found a used one on the site for 50 bucks W/ no cracks. I plan on getting it reenforced. Does anyone have any pics where and how they reenforced their W bar? I'll be doing a search next. Also getting that whole rear skid fell threw he had sold it, in addition things are moving slowly money is tight waiting for the next paycheck
 
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Thank you I found that one yesterday. There looks to be many different ways to reforce the W bar. I'll probily be doing a little of each one. Another question Whammy you may know this one, is there a difference in the W bar between a Viper and a SRX? The one I found for 50 is a viper W bar and I still tring to find out if I should get that one. You would think the Viper one would be longer due to more travel.
 
Yes you are correct that it is larger do to the fact that it has a longer shock and limiter straps.. They are different part #'s,, do not know for sure if it will work with stock srx components... I have heard you can long travel the srx though with viper shocks and longer limiter straps with out replacing the "W" pivot arm...
 
Man, The guys in my post aout the differences between a Viper and Srx W bay say there is no difference. I have crated a monster.
 
While your doing some work on the skid there is a couple of things you can do to help prevent future bushing wear at some key spots.First take the 2 L shaped brackets that bolt the W arm to the rails off and drill and tap them for a grease fitting.You can do this a couple of different ways either in the center of the bracket or at an angle on the side.The center is a bit of an awkward spot to work on as your between the 2 pieces of plate and your trying to drill the round stock that holds the bushing and steel sleeve.Drilling and tapping isn't the hard part it's the screwing the grease zerk in that's rather trying which is why it is easier to put the zerk on an angle on the outside of the plate.
The bushings at the ends of the transfer rods is another spot for a fitting although I can't give any install advise here as I personally never did this one only the L brackets.
If your looking for another spot to save your self some work by adding grease fittings is in the front end,the bolts that hold the radius rods to the trailing arms.What I did is drill a small hole about half way through the bolts straight down from the head and then another from the side so the grease can get out of the bolt and into the bushings.All you need to do now is tap the heads and put grease zerks in,this will eliminate having to take these all apart and grease them by hand.
 
Well, It's been a long time and I haven't got anything done since last post. I'm just finishing up the wifes sled. Ended up having to put the money into the polaris. Had to replace crank seals, recoil rope, engine mount, rebuild carbs, put on the ripsaw w/ studs, carbides, hyfax and a couple other little things. Probilly won't be able to ride the SRX this season. The brother-in-law is letting me borrow his 97 red head for the season since he will be out of state for the remainder of the winter. Going back to save money mode to finish the SRX.
 
Well, I'm back. I started back into the sled. I tore all the steering parts off and am getting ready to ship out the left and right arms and control rods for powder coating. Took apart the engine more and am getting ready to remove it. Found 2 powervalves pulled threw and hoping to get them repaired by YA*AM*A*HEAD. I have ordered all of my parts so my goal is to have this done by the begining of sept. I get some more pics op next week for ya.
 
Ok, got some more work done. I have got all my parts ordered now it up to them not having to be back ordered. I got the motor out today and was just inspecting it as best as I could w/o tearing the top half off. The pistons looking threw the manifold windows all appear in great shape. They still have the machining swirls and didn't notice any scuffing. Prior to tearing into the sled it had good compression all acrost the board W/ 3600mi on it. All my reed peadals are in great conditin even though I have V-force3's on the way. Next up is to take the belly pans, gas tank, dash shroud off and start to clan up all the oily mess. Also do you like my mouse nest in the tunnel! Question do you think I should take the top half apart and inspect it? Well here are some progress pics.

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nice bedding in the belly pan lol..wounder how the mice liked going over the frozen lake at 100 mph.
 
Ok, got more done. Got the gas tank, dash surround, belly pans, heat exchangers and some other things out. I hate rivets :die: I started sanding the tunnel as well. I'm going for the natural aluninum look.
-Do you guys have any sugestions for the tight areas to get the powder coating off?

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^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ What super1C said ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

I used up some aircraft paint remover from a local auto parts store when I stripped the tunnel from my '02 SRX a few years ago. You just apply it with a paint brush and let it do it's thing for a few minutes. It starts to bubble the paint right off the aluminum. Be aware that it will also remove the paint from anything else that it comes in contact with, such as the steering support post by the footwells. Don't ask me how I know this. You can either hose it off with water or use a rag to pick up the residue. I recommend applying it in a well ventilated area to avoid burning eyes and a cheap buzz from the fumes.

After the paint comes off, I used some 1500-2000 grit sandpaper. Wet the sandpaper slightly and go with the grain of the metal. That should remove any of the remaining paint residue. Mothers polish applied with their polishing ball after that will give you a mirror like finish.

Keep the pics coming. It looks like you're really coming along with your build. ;)!
 
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