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Mac said:
Zachalyse - Please explain how a synthetic oil destroyed your power valves?
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Season 1. Ran Yamalube for the first 1200 miles on my SRX. Cleaned valves. not bad.

Season 2. Switched to Klots, ran 1000. 2 stuck valves and major build up. so, no, technically it didn't destroy them, but sure made a mess of them.

Season 3. Back to Yamalube for 1300 miles this year. cleaned valves much better condition.

Simple trial and error. Did nothing nor did I change anything on the sled. All I did was switch oils for one season. The season on Klogs was costly. I'm sure many will come up with other reasons why my valves were a mess. But rather than spending time researching and resolving, I just switched back to Yamalube. Problem was solved. To each his own.


I will give Klogs one thing. It sure smells good.
 
Just a thought but certain fully synthetics are recommended to be run at 50-1 (amsoil) If hes using way more oil than amsoil recommends hes probably got sticky powervalves because of the detergent package in the syn oil. The brand of oil doesnt really matter its the rating on the bottle that matters. The shell ultra is jaso fc as is the amsoil, I run the shell ultra because its cheaper than the amsoil and it exceeds the api tc and jaso fc rating. Now they have jaso fd rating which exceeds jaso fc but I havnt seen any around where I live yet. So basically any jaso fc oil is gonna be way better than any tcw3 or apitc rated oil. Sad thing is amsoil never did these tests but the say they meet the requirements(in house testing maybe?)
 
Its funny how we all have different results with oil.
When I purchased my 780 from Jeff Simons at CPR he recommended that I adjust my oil pump to full pull. Some would say that is way to much oil. I thought it was gonna be to much oil too. It ends up not the case as my plugs burn a real nice light tan color and the scuffing on the piston skirts has gone away. Pistons didn't last very long 1000 to 1500 miles. I went through plenty of pistons before I figured out that the water temp must be maintained at 140 degrees or less. I also tried running leaner with the oil settings for a couple of thousand miles thinking the synthetic oil offered better protection. What a big mistake that was. I'm back to full pull. Sled runs great.
 
when i did a rebuild on a ktm 50 dirt bike, that ran on klotz its whole life, the inside was a mess. the exhaust port was so carboned up, that i had to chissle the carbon out w/a screwdriver. the exhaust port was like 1/2 the size it was suppose to be, cause of all the carbon. the head had carbon on it too and there was such a mess left in the crankcase. dirtiest oil i have seen. would run yamalube over klotz anyday. at least the klotz smells good tho.
 
not sure what the deal is, but AMSOIL products are absolutely garbage. They have a good marketing department which makes you think its a good oil. Many of our family friends run ice ovals, and we know a few engine builders who build many of the snowcross team's snowmobile engines. The guys who have taken apart motors running amsoil have been junk, the oil doesn't leave a good film in the bottom end, it runs off it and they describe it as too "dry" of an oil. Few of the ice oval guys we know decided to try amsoil after they got a years worth of oil for free... 6 of the 9 engines had oil related problems. They went back to redline, and no issues since.

Best oil out there hands down is REDLINE. non synthetics are much better for your engine, but they will carbon your valves faster. They stick to bearings in the bottom end much better. I would much rather clean my valves more. Also if you have heard of INDY SPECIALTIES who builds the torquemaster bottom ends and has a full warranty on his products, your warranty is VOIDED if you use amsoil or any other synthetic oil. Because non synthetic are proven to do a better job at filming over all internal engine parts.

But if you are set on running synthetic, run redline. The only other people have ran with success is Klotz.

For non-synthetic, the best have been found to be Arctic-Cat Blue, Polaris Gold, and Yamalube(MADE BY CITGO). DO NOT, and I mean DO NOT RUN INJEX, that shit is the purple death to an engine. No Mystic Either please.

That is what I do know from very smart engine saavy tech's.
 
Spinner18 said:
not sure what the deal is, but AMSOIL products are absolutely garbage. They have a good marketing department which makes you think its a good oil. Many of our family friends run ice ovals, and we know a few engine builders who build many of the snowcross team's snowmobile engines. The guys who have taken apart motors running amsoil have been junk, the oil doesn't leave a good film in the bottom end, it runs off it and they describe it as too "dry" of an oil. Few of the ice oval guys we know decided to try amsoil after they got a years worth of oil for free... 6 of the 9 engines had oil related problems. They went back to redline, and no issues since.

Best oil out there hands down is REDLINE. non synthetics are much better for your engine, but they will carbon your valves faster. They stick to bearings in the bottom end much better. I would much rather clean my valves more. Also if you have heard of INDY SPECIALTIES who builds the torquemaster bottom ends and has a full warranty on his products, your warranty is VOIDED if you use amsoil or any other synthetic oil. Because non synthetic are proven to do a better job at filming over all internal engine parts.

But if you are set on running synthetic, run redline. The only other people have ran with success is Klotz.

For non-synthetic, the best have been found to be Arctic-Cat Blue, Polaris Gold, and Yamalube(MADE BY CITGO). DO NOT, and I mean DO NOT RUN INJEX, that shit is the purple death to an engine. No Mystic Either please.

That is what I do know from very smart engine saavy tech's.
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the only thing i can agree w/you on there, is about the INJEX being garbage.

about the amsoil not leaving a "film" on the bottom end and engine internals, is BULL$hit, cause when i tear my banshee engine down, to change up the porting layout, there is nothing but a golden film of oil on everything. whatever oil buildup there is on the head, wipes right off. not to mention my exh port stays clean too. whoever told you that when they inspected engines that ran amsoil, and they found no oil film on parts, must have inspected the engine w/their eyes closed. i know when it comes to 4-stroke motorcycle oils, amsoil came out on top. i would assume their same great 4-stroke oil technology would be in their 2-stroke stuff.
 
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Zachalyse said:
Season 1. Ran Yamalube for the first 1200 miles on my SRX. Cleaned valves. not bad.

Season 2. Switched to Klots, ran 1000. 2 stuck valves and major build up. so, no, technically it didn't destroy them, but sure made a mess of them.

Season 3. Back to Yamalube for 1300 miles this year. cleaned valves much better condition.

Simple trial and error. Did nothing nor did I change anything on the sled. All I did was switch oils for one season. The season on Klogs was costly. I'm sure many will come up with other reasons why my valves were a mess. But rather than spending time researching and resolving, I just switched back to Yamalube. Problem was solved. To each his own.



I will give Klogs one thing. It sure smells good.
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Maybe they should call it CLOTS! Lol

I've been running Blue Marble and it seems to be less buildup than Yamalube, and it doesn't have much of a smell.
 
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i think its the way u run your sled...some people run them hard an some baby them..so there will be different results with different oils...i think thats why everyone has different results...i run yamalube in mine an all seems good..
 
its a good thing NOSBOY isn't around to read this.He would be having a fit.But I am sure as the wind blows..he will catch drift of it..lol
I am sure as a lot of guys suggested already..maybe how rich or lean you run the oil pump settings is showing different results..no one mentioned BLUE MARBLE OIL.I have used it in my SXR since I got the sled.When I tear open the motor one day..gonna see how the pistons and cyl. walls are doing.I might get a surprise on the wear issue.There is a lot of hype on different oils,each Company competing for the market share.Run what you think works best for your sleds and stick with it.The cost of the oils now with their super properties are starting to get up there to.Maybe WALMART brand will work for most of us..but they are no BIG OIL COMPANY making these outrageous claims.But their prices are GREAT!!!...lol ;)!
 
I run AMSOIL Interceptor in my SRX and I run it fairly hard I think, as it is my snow/ice dragger and had no oil related problems so far, my PV's are just coated black but can be wiped off with a shop rag. I had my engine out and checked over the piston walls and crank from the intake side and there was a oil coated everywhere, I'll keep running it but it is costly at $15 a litre. I still undeicided on a topend rebuild and both end seals as my compression is still at 130psi across the board at just under 5000 miles
 
k...so i just bought a 2002 viper er last week...is yamalube sufficient when it comes to the power valves or do i buy amsoil at $14.99 + tax a litre?not sure how bad a viper is at burning oil but at the price of amsoil,i hope its not to bad.had a 1999 sx600 and it used alot more oil than the polaris twins i went with,for sure.hope the viper is better as people claim...also is it a big job to remove the 2 rear shocks.i need them rebuilt before next season i think...go pen's go!!!
 
mopar1rules said:
the only thing i can agree w/you on there, is about the INJEX being garbage.

about the amsoil not leaving a "film" on the bottom end and engine internals, is BULL$hit, cause when i tear my banshee engine down, to change up the porting layout, there is nothing but a golden film of oil on everything. whatever oil buildup there is on the head, wipes right off. not to mention my exh port stays clean too. whoever told you that when they inspected engines that ran amsoil, and they found no oil film on parts, must have inspected the engine w/their eyes closed. i know when it comes to 4-stroke motorcycle oils, amsoil came out on top. i would assume their same great 4-stroke oil technology would be in their 2-stroke stuff.
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No, I will agree their 4 stroke stuff is going, my cousin raced supermoto for suzuki for 17 years, and he agreed 4 stroke amsoil was a good oil. Their 2 stroke oil is garbage. I have seen enough engine failures from it, and heard from enough engine GURU's that BUILD MAJOR SNOWCROSS and ICE OVAL engines, that I will simply not touch amsoil 2 stroke oils.

Blue, you very well may be in for a surprise with blue marble. Heard from a few guys is excessive piston wear with it, but that was just online, nothing I have seen or heard from everyone else, mainly in part it's not sold around here.

I would like to extend a sorry out to all the guys who have fallen for Amsoil's marketing scheme, and wish you the best of luck with your engine components.
 
I will say one thing, you may not see the oil related failures as you do in other brands, as every yamaha I have owned, has used close to twice the amount of oil than every polaris I own... Keep that food for thought also.

A good oil and bad oil's will really start to show in the new doo's I believe, those just sip the oil and sip the gas....
 
spinner..my sxr600 has been flawless with the Blue Marble.At almost 13,000 km's..sled still runs great..starts easily and all around sound with no engine failure.Compression is still around 125 also.Not using BM anymore because I ran out and using up yamalube I still have sitting here.I will be going to Shell Ultra next season on the sleds for sure.
 
SAY WHAT???? Try KLOTZ... you'll like it....
bluemonster1 said:
its a good thing NOSBOY isn't around to read this.He would be having a fit.But I am sure as the wind blows..he will catch drift of it..lol
I am sure as a lot of guys suggested already..maybe how rich or lean you run the oil pump settings is showing different results..no one mentioned BLUE MARBLE OIL.I have used it in my SXR since I got the sled.When I tear open the motor one day..gonna see how the pistons and cyl. walls are doing.I might get a surprise on the wear issue.There is a lot of hype on different oils,each Company competing for the market share.Run what you think works best for your sleds and stick with it.The cost of the oils now with their super properties are starting to get up there to.Maybe WALMART brand will work for most of us..but they are no BIG OIL COMPANY making these outrageous claims.But their prices are GREAT!!!...lol ;)!
Click to expand...
 
I think AMSOIL is a good product,, but their MARKETING SUCKS really bad....
Spinner18 said:
not sure what the deal is, but AMSOIL products are absolutely garbage. They have a good marketing department which makes you think its a good oil. Many of our family friends run ice ovals, and we know a few engine builders who build many of the snowcross team's snowmobile engines. The guys who have taken apart motors running amsoil have been junk, the oil doesn't leave a good film in the bottom end, it runs off it and they describe it as too "dry" of an oil. Few of the ice oval guys we know decided to try amsoil after they got a years worth of oil for free... 6 of the 9 engines had oil related problems. They went back to redline, and no issues since.

Best oil out there hands down is REDLINE. non synthetics are much better for your engine, but they will carbon your valves faster. They stick to bearings in the bottom end much better. I would much rather clean my valves more. Also if you have heard of INDY SPECIALTIES who builds the torquemaster bottom ends and has a full warranty on his products, your warranty is VOIDED if you use amsoil or any other synthetic oil. Because non synthetic are proven to do a better job at filming over all internal engine parts.

But if you are set on running synthetic, run redline. The only other people have ran with success is Klotz.

For non-synthetic, the best have been found to be Arctic-Cat Blue, Polaris Gold, and Yamalube(MADE BY CITGO). DO NOT, and I mean DO NOT RUN INJEX, that shit is the purple death to an engine. No Mystic Either please.

That is what I do know from very smart engine saavy tech's.
Click to expand...
 
I love my AMSOIL, no problems at all, in my drag sled, which is always run lean and my trial sled on NOS, and it get sprayed all the time. To me synthetics is the only way to go.
 
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