89 Exciter Transformation!

Well, it was cold enough to freeze last night, but the clutch didn't pop off... :dunno: I am now in my last options before cutting it off. :o|

Im going to source an M20 x 1.5 bolt, and tap the clutch bore over to the next size up. That way I will have some threads to play with... otherwise Im gonna zip cut the clutch off the shaft................. :o|
 
well this seems kind of familiar..... let´s hope that you don´t need to cut it lose like i did.
 
Post from DooTalk.com




Primary Clutch Removal with The Water Method

The bolt threads into the clutch first, then goes loose,
there is a void, it then threads into the crank.
When you fill that void with water, and start the bolt into the clutch,
the water pressure will become so great,
that the water pressure blows the clutch off the taper.

Remove Cluch bolt.
Flip sled on side use hot water from tap fill hole.
Use a bolt with the right thread, start with 1 wrap of teflon tape and getting thicker as you get to end of threads 2-3 wraps of teflon wrapped in direction so threads won't unwrap it. Don't over do it.
Thread in clutch bolt it will be about 1-2 inches away from even touching the clutch it will slowly build pressuse the water will spread the crank to clutch taper and clutch will come off like butter!
This will make a large pop sound.

The Water Method will not work with a clutch puller...
The tapered pin bottoms out on the crank and then doesn't compress any water!
Use square end clutch bolt.

 
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Thanks Lasse, I really aappreciate all the info. I'll try it again tonight... but I'm slowly running out of threads, patience, and snow... :o|
 
Lasse said:
Running out of snow in the middle of February !?!?

:letitsnow :letitsnow :letitsnow :letitsnow
Click to expand...

As crazy as it sounds... there is hardly anything left on the ground... it's been so warm here lately. There is hardly any snow on the roofs of houses, or the ground for that matter. We are supposed to get 10cm tmrw night, but who knows how long it'll last, or if it';ll even stick considering how warm it is...

It's been melting for over 2-3 weeks... slowly but surely.

Here's a pic of the back of my work place :( Hard, crusty snow, barely 4 inches....
IMG_1878.jpg
 
Its Finally Snowing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WE'VE GOT 4 INCHES DOWN, AND ANOTHER 4 TO GO!!!!! WHOOP

FYI - UPDATE - My motor will be back in my hands tmrw to change out the seals, then Im going to put it back in the machine and go and rip it up!!!

IMG_1879.jpg


IMG_1883.jpg
 
Ok guys!! My friend managed to get the clutch off, so today the seals were changed, and everything is clean and back together! Engine is in, and now I cleaning the primary clutch. Everything is coming together nicely! I'll have video of this beast soon ! I plan to finish tonight and get it out tmrw!
 
Looks like I have some more issues to deal with before this sled runs right. The mag side is flooding big time, the plugs are soaked... so Im ordering 2 sets of float needle valves, with viton tipped needles. I had the same issue with an old dirt bike, the float valve seat was worn, and the needle tip was too. Once I changed that out it ran like a top!

Once I rip the carbs apart tonight, Ill triple check the float height and possibly adjust it so that the floats close the valve sooner...

I also read that the in-tank gas filter can get nasty and block fuel so Im going to remove it... I have an in-line filter anyhow. And I am REAAAALLLY tempted to remove the whole oil injection system.... the jetting is not consistant.. sometimes really oil rich, other times really lean... WTF!

I'll update once I get the float valves replaced.
 
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Float valves have been ordered and I should have them early this week. Hopefully that cures the cylinder flooding... can't think of anything else that would cause that...
 
stanage said:
Looks like I have some more issues to deal with before this sled runs right.
The mag side is flooding big time, the plugs are soaked...
so Im ordering 2 sets of float needle valves, with viton tipped needles.

Once I rip the carbs apart tonight, Ill triple check the float height and possibly adjust it so that the floats close the valve sooner...

I also read that the in-tank gas filter can get nasty and block fuel so Im going to remove it... I have an in-line filter anyhow.

And I am REAAAALLLY tempted to remove the whole oil injection system....
the jetting is not consistant.. sometimes really oil rich, other times really lean...
Click to expand...
1. Clean up among all the funky fuel and oil lines that Yamaha put on these sleds.
Delete the whole Oil Injection system including the oil pump.
Run 1:40 premix instead.

2. Completly disconnect the warming system to the carburettors.

3. Disconnect the T.O.R.S.-system from the carburettors.
remove the powerjet function and parts from the carburretors.

4. Jetting: factory updated jetting for the Yamaha Exciter-I ( 87 / 88 / 89 / 90 )
Pilot jet : 40
Main jet : 320
Air screw : 1.0 turn out ( +-½ Turn )
Slide : 3.0
Needle jet : 480 P-6
Needle : 6FL68 ( Yamaha part # 239-14116-68-00 )
( And of course all the things regarding the "Power Jet" system is deleted ! )

5. Set the engine idle speed to 1600-1800 Rpm

6. Remember to have the fuel filter before the fuel pump !!
 
Yes Lasse... I know buddy :) But Im hard headed ya know! :o|

1. Clean up among all the funky fuel and oil lines that Yamaha put on these sleds.
Delete the whole Oil Injection system including the oil pump.
Run 1:40 premix instead. Im VERY TEMPTED!!! And if I lose any more of my patience, it's gone! Any guidance on this would be appreciated. I.e: If I remove the pump, do I block off the shaft hole with a plate and gasket? I usually run 1:50 in my dirt bikes, so is that also cool with the exciter?

2. Completly disconnect the warming system to the carburettors. DONE!

3. Disconnect the T.O.R.S.-system from the carburettors.
remove the powerjet function and parts from the carburretors. DONE!

4. Jetting: factory updated jetting for the Yamaha Exciter-I ( 87 / 88 / 89 / 90 )
Pilot jet : 40
Main jet : 320
Air screw : 1.0 turn out ( +-½ Turn )
Slide : 3.0
Needle jet : 480 P-6
Needle : 6FL68 ( Yamaha part # 239-14116-68-00 )
( And of course all the things regarding the "Power Jet" system is deleted ! )

ALLLL DONE!, but my mains are 330 (PSI PIPE), and my pilots are 42.5. I'll look at getting some 40's

5. Set the engine idle speed to 1600-1800 Rpm DONE!
6. Remember to have the fuel filter before the fuel pump !! DONE!!
 
Get rid of the oil injection, just make a plate and put in front of the hole, then plug the fuel line or change it to a direct one instead. Use the recommendations that Lasse gave u when mixing your self (much more safe without, works excellent). Besides more space and u save some weight as well:)

Change the rubber seals on the needle vents, mine were dry and cracked, had to shut the fuel off each time i stop or it wouldn´t start because of flooding..... if u don´t have them om the vm (don´t remember how they look) change the needle vents they are expensive but i think it´s worth it.

btw i really enjoyed those vids! Damn the surroundings look really awesome!
 
is it me or your exciter accelerates very slowly ? nice sled btw i just discovered this forum i have a 92 exciter that i fitted a 136'' suspension from a arctic cat powder extreme and a brand new camoplast back country 1,75'' paddle. this sledd is a blast i run premix gas and uni filters and yamaha bravo 7 tooth track sprockets. (sorry if my english is not perfect i'm french canadian i will try to do my best) :2strokes:
 
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