taylzee said:
I don't see the math either as far as actual increase in octane rating goes, but I'm not a petromechanical engineer. I am not disagreeing though...there maybe other forces at work within the cocktail.
The way I see this:
If you run straight gas in a diesel motor (high compression), you will detonate way to early and fry the pistons/crank bearings, etc...becuase of pre-ignition. If you run diesel in a gas motor it increases your resistance to detonation, which allows you to run higher compression...i.e. more power on the stroke (kaboom) to force the piston down without cooking it or rattling it becuase of pre-ignition. You need to create the optimal position of the piston in the stroke with the combustion in order to create maximum power without frying things. (Timing and other things come into account here). If you put straight diesel in a gas motor it basically fouls and you don't get any power out of the stroke because you didn't get that optimal heat/resistance to detonation/compression/piston placement in the stroke with a hot enough combustion.
The way I see this:
It's trying to equate cetane to octane rating. They are not the same.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the proposed cocktail here is simply raising the resistance to detonation to something similar to 114 with the mix of 1 to 11 gallons in a 12 gallon tank for a high compression motor.
If you are trying to get more out of a stock motor by way of increased octane rating...you are wasting your time. Motors are designed to run on a certain octane.
Running a motor on 93 when it's designed for 87 is a waste of money.
Just my $0.02
EXACTLY !!!.. Raising the motor's ability to resist knocking.... You hit it on the head,,, A motor fuel can ONLY be raised " so high"... If you have a 87 octane fuel and you try to raise it,,lets say TWENTY POINTS,,, you'd have to have an additive that has a BASE octane rating of ,,lets say 130.... You can ONLY add TEN PERCENT until you start changing the specific gravity and flash point, Once you start chainging the structure of the fuel,, you NEED TO CHANGE the way the fuel is delivered ( pressures and volumes).. Thats when you start getting into fuel injection strategys and fuel pressure changes) OR REJETTING ALTOGETHER.... As far as the " base octane of this concoction,, well,, DEPENDING ON THE QUALITY ( or GRADE) of stuff you use,,,, will make ALL THE DIFFERENCE when trying to " bump up" the octane of a BASE FUEL... Jet-A- works better than Kerosene that you buy from HOME DEPOT.... "Tolly" works better than " Zolly"... Synthetic trans fluid lubricates better,, but,, depending on the type,,, conventional atf BURNS SLOWER..... So you see... you can ONLY ADD SO MUCH to where it won't help anymore.. You can burn STRAIGHT METHANOL in your sled... ( I don't think it will run too well in the wintertime) but. IT WILL RUN.. You could run STRAIGHT "tolly" also,, but NOT with the "stock fuel system you have on your sled currently... ( same goes for alcohol.. you need STEEL or aluminum lines).. ( preferably stainless lines).. so you see,,,, it depends on a LOT of things.. Look at my FIRST POST and go from there.. it is NOT a SCIENCE unless we start CRACKING the ingredients and seeing EXACTLY what their makeup is... MSDS get you in the GENERAL NEIGHBORHOOD,, but ,, CHEMICAL COMPANIES do NOT give away their secrets!!! ESPECIALLY EXXON MOBIL..... I've tried for YEARS to get into their additive package information ,, but,,, it's a TRADE SECRET.. There is a series of tests,, and I can't even SPELL the equipment,, but it's called GCMS ( gas chemography (someting or other, Mass spectrometry... ) they " burn" it and watch the pretty colors,,, I've heard of it being done,, but never saw it...