SRX top speed runs

Matt, NBSSR runs are a great place to challenge yourself and test your set ups! # of entrants in the 700 trail stock class varies from event to event but you will generally have 3 or 4 sleds that will separate them selfs from the rest of the pack. To win in this class you have to have a good running sled and be able to tune for the days conditions. This year the switch to the shorter track is going to make things very interesting the first couple events. More aggressive clutching and lower gearing are going to make it harder to get traction on the trail side. If you make it to an event come over and say hello!
 

I pushed it to a new top speed, 200km/h (124 mph) on the dreamometer. That was 185,8 or 115 on gps.
 
Hauck #5 kit, black hauck primary spring, adjustable weights, with approx 6 grams in tip, don't remember how many grams in the inner hole, hauck gray secondary spring at 70 or 80 degree wrap and a 45 degree hauck helix. 22/38 gearing.
 
yeah I am going to go to 22/38 gearing for next season also..should help give it a little more torque and probably a better top speed because clutch's will work less hard and be more efficient ..what was your rpm's at that speed by the way..???
 
hey all I am new to the site, I bought a 2000 SRX in February just to run the 1000' radar runs. I havent touched it yet, so stock every, with just ice picks.

The sled ran between 101-104 consistently. This is with timing boxes and a couple times with a radar gun. Dont care for the guns much as they are almost always off alittle. A few things i need to change. with a stock set-up, the SRX is pulling through the 1/4 mile and the there is to much lug on the track decreasing the effectiveness of the picks.

Changes this summer for next year, I will be use a speed track and ice picks, clutching needs to be completely changed, vforce reeds, and a bunch of other smaller stuff. The testing is the thing that kind of burns me as my race sleds stay in MN as i keep getting restationed and deployed all over the world. My dad tries to do what he can but doesnt have time with work and running a business.

This is our 4th race sled now and probably the one we like the most.
 
micorps said:
hey all I am new to the site, I bought a 2000 SRX in February just to run the 1000' radar runs. I havent touched it yet, so stock every, with just ice picks.

The sled ran between 101-104 consistently. This is with timing boxes and a couple times with a radar gun. Dont care for the guns much as they are almost always off alittle. A few things i need to change. with a stock set-up, the SRX is pulling through the 1/4 mile and the there is to much lug on the track decreasing the effectiveness of the picks.

Changes this summer for next year, I will be use a speed track and ice picks, clutching needs to be completely changed, vforce reeds, and a bunch of other smaller stuff. The testing is the thing that kind of burns me as my race sleds stay in MN as i keep getting restationed and deployed all over the world. My dad tries to do what he can but doesnt have time with work and running a business.

This is our 4th race sled now and probably the one we like the most.
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dont bother with the reeds on a stock engine, put your time and $ into the clutching and chassis set-up. just my .02
 
2X on the reeds! Work on getting the chassis to roll well and setting up your clutching. Adding reeds will not gain you enough MPH to be worth the cash. Plus it takes you out of the stock classes and without a ton more money invested your going to get destroyed!
 
WIsnoRyder said:
Yea, but 114 mph period out of a bone stock srx????? like yamigod said, what the hell am i doing wrong????

But I am DEFINATLY calling BS on the 117MPH stock viper. Piped vipers are lucky to get up there. you got to be dialed in to the frickin T.
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My 99 SRX 700 was bone stock...light clutch work ( spring and a helix ) and it went 114 mph on radar with me weighing 230lbs ( with gear on )...2000ft distance...
 
jabber800 said:
2X on the reeds! Work on getting the chassis to roll well and setting up your clutching. Adding reeds will not gain you enough MPH to be worth the cash. Plus it takes you out of the stock classes and without a ton more money invested your going to get destroyed!
Click to expand...

Thank you for the information. What do you recommend on the chassis for the stock class?
 
Will be out on the lake today with a GPS

I'm running this in my SRX 00

8dn-20's loaded 4.5 both holes
YWY with one shim
50/40 bender
Green @50
22/40 gears
1.75 sno-cross track
 
Remove track and drive shaft. Check driver spacing and condition. Next have someone spin the shaft on a lathe for you. This will tell you if the drivers are distorted in any way. Have the machinist make a very light cut to the drive cogs to eliminate any hop at this time if all is in good condition. While the suspension is out check it for bends breaks or cracks. The w arm is going to be the obvious one. Check bushings and repair and replace all defective parts as needed. If you plan to do only radar running with the sled, now is a good time to pull the suspension down.
Reinstall track suspension and drive shaft. Before installing chain and gears permanently, install the gears on the shafts and check parallelism with a straight edge. If these are not perfect recheck your complete install. These have to be exact! Once perfect install your gears and chain permanently.
Check engine alignment. If you do not have the proper tools I suggest you either buy them or borrow them as it makes the job much easier. This I find gets overlooked far to often. A Quick check seems to be what most will do but accuracy here is very important. Spend the time to do it right. At this point I will usually check the brake assembly. Make sure the disk is true and has no warping. Pads should release tension from the disk when brake pressure is removed and jacks shaft should turn nicely. If not check the caliper assembly.
Next not part of the chassis but equally important are the clutches. Clean everything really well first. Disassemble and check all components. Bushings, pins rollers etc. Check everything really well and make sure everything is snug but free moving. (you don't want all kinds of slop in your clutches it will make getting any kind of consistancy almost impossible.) if you haven't done maintenance on the clutches in awhile new springs may be a good investment at this time. Reassemble and then break in a couple new belt before heading off to set your new top speed #

We have been able to run high teens in 2000 ft runs and have seen low teens in 1320 ft with trail tracks and 96 trail studs. Top speed # on a long pull have been up as high as 126 mph on radar.
Hope this helps a bit!
 
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jabber800 said:
Remove track and drive shaft. Check driver spacing and condition. Next have someone spin the shaft on a lathe for you. This will tell you if the drivers are distorted in any way. Have the machinist make a very light cut to the drive cogs to eliminate any hop at this time if all is in good condition. While the suspension is out check it for bends breaks or cracks. The w arm is going to be the obvious one. Check bushings and repair and replace all defective parts as needed. If you plan to do only radar running with the sled, now is a good time to pull the suspension down.
Reinstall track suspension and drive shaft. Before installing chain and gears permanently, install the gears on the shafts and check parallelism with a straight edge. If these are not perfect recheck your complete install. These have to be exact! Once perfect install your gears and chain permanently.
Check engine alignment. If you do not have the proper tools I suggest you either buy them or borrow them as it makes the job much easier. This I find gets overlooked far to often. A Quick check seems to be what most will do but accuracy here is very important. Spend the time to do it right. At this point I will usually check the brake assembly. Make sure the disk is true and has no warping. Pads should release tension from the disk when brake pressure is removed and jacks shaft should turn nicely. If not check the caliper assembly.
Next not part of the chassis but equally important are the clutches. Clean everything really well first. Disassemble and check all components. Bushings, pins rollers etc. Check everything really well and make sure everything is snug but free moving. (you don't want all kinds of slop in your clutches it will make getting any kind of consistancy almost impossible.) if you haven't done maintenance on the clutches in awhile new springs may be a good investment at this time. Reassemble and then break in a couple new belt before heading off to set your new top speed #

We have been able to run high teens in 2000 ft runs and have seen low teens in 1320 ft with trail tracks and 96 trail studs. Top speed # on a long pull have been up as high as 126 mph on radar.
Hope this helps a bit!
Click to expand...

Yeah I think it is definitely time to start saving these great posts. I bought the sled in February just to race and ran it three times in a week and half before my leave was over. If I can get everything done this summer in the 3 weeks I am home, I am thinking maybe I should bring it to DC and just take it apart to inspect everything. I will rebuild the entire clutch and already know i am geared to high for the 1000'. I borrowed the tools to realign the motor on my formula III, but think its time for me to just buy everything now that I have more race sleds. I think after i do this, clutching, gearing, speed track, and ice picks that it will rip. Thank you.
 
micorps said:
.

That is an excellent thread and could explain why the sled almost always pulls right when i launch from the line. Looks like alot of work this summer.
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follow jabbers suggestions and to add to it the pulling to the right can also be caused from the transfer rods being off from each other. easiest way to fix that, if it persists after everything else has been gone through, is with adjustable t-rods but if the class you're running does'nt allow them then you'll have to play with the shim thicknesses
 
bluemonster1 said:
watch out for the open water Andy..you didn't re build your motor did you???
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Well Blue! there is some open water here now but the bigger part of the lake is still rideable

My top speed for the day was 96.2 mph with what I was running on a GPS ;)! , I know there's more but will have to wait till next yr Rebuild time here I come from the ground up.
 
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