03 Viper going long track

The directions that came with my Hartman tunnel and drivers also included the instructions for the rails even though I didn't buy his. He says to drill out the bottom lower bolt to accommodate the axle mounted bogeys that are just in front of the scissor and relocate them. If you want to add another bogey axle I'm getting rid of the one that came off my mountain max.
 

Nice job on that setup . Sounds like you are having as much fun as I did when I put the warrior skid and reverse in my 03 Viper .
 
Finally got the track pulled out today, the bearing on the clutch side didn't want to come off for nothing. Really didn't do much all Saturday, had too much fun out at the bars Friday night. Time to pull all the studs off my old track and switch them over to the new track. Going with a different pattern this time. The pattern on my old track did really good though.
 

Attachments

  • 101_0828.jpg
    101_0828.jpg
    83.7 KB · Views: 12
Last edited:
Pulled all the studs out of my old track last night. Today I got the new track all studed. May look like an odd pattern but I tell you what, it really hooks up great. My dad did this pattern on his vmax a few years ago and worked better then mine. Also picked up a pair of wheels from a friend tonight and mounted them up on the rails. Tomorrow I should have the track and suspension back in. My one idler wheel should be here tomorrow and i have to also pick up some slides and the bearing for the drive shaft. Then the sled should being going back together.
 

Attachments

  • 101_0834.jpg
    101_0834.jpg
    80.2 KB · Views: 9
  • 101_0829.jpg
    101_0829.jpg
    82.6 KB · Views: 6
  • 101_0831.jpg
    101_0831.jpg
    72.4 KB · Views: 11
  • 101_0832.jpg
    101_0832.jpg
    95.1 KB · Views: 8
  • 101_0833.jpg
    101_0833.jpg
    102.9 KB · Views: 18
Put in some tunnel protectors, really didnt know if I needed them here or not. Put them in to be on the save side. I did hand tighten all my studs in the track today which kind of took a while, 228 takes a bit to do. Going to trim the track tomorrow and then its time for the track to go in. Been dealing with some issues all week with getting another red idler wheel and drive shaft bearing. Ended up just going to the dealer and getting both. The snowmobile store had a bearing but couldn't find any red wheels through three different places. The bearing looked really cheap and of course from china. Went with the yamaha one even though it was more, but was well worth it. Should be getting a lot of stuff done tomorrow. I will keep updates of whats going on.
 

Attachments

  • 101_0835.jpg
    101_0835.jpg
    71.2 KB · Views: 9
  • 101_0836.jpg
    101_0836.jpg
    54.5 KB · Views: 5
  • 101_0837.jpg
    101_0837.jpg
    65.9 KB · Views: 6
  • 101_0838.jpg
    101_0838.jpg
    61.5 KB · Views: 6
Today I ended up adding some rubber hose to the original hoses to make them longer which worked great. Also got to mounting the mtn viper hose covers as well. As u can see the skid is in and bolted in the front holes only. Been having some problems with it going in. The last few days I've been tightening up the track hoping it will stretch enough to work. If not it looks like I might have to get the rail extensions machined so the wheels can go forward more. Its been a big pain trying to get the skid to bolt up. :o|
 

Attachments

  • 101_0839.jpg
    101_0839.jpg
    83.5 KB · Views: 28
  • 101_0840.jpg
    101_0840.jpg
    81.5 KB · Views: 17
  • 101_0841.jpg
    101_0841.jpg
    66.9 KB · Views: 13
  • 101_0842.jpg
    101_0842.jpg
    71.4 KB · Views: 13
Looks awesome! To get that track in i would still tip it on its side to take weight off the middle hole. Ive had skids that no matter what i couldnt bolt that middle in untill i tipped it on its side. Even unbolting the shock at the FRA and setting in the skid helps. Then just loosen or tighten the transfer rod bolt to line back up the shock. And make sure those transfer rod bolts at the end are very loose or out all together. WIll make getting skid in a whole lot easier.
 
Looks awesome! To get that track in i would still tip it on its side to take weight off the middle hole. Ive had skids that no matter what i couldnt bolt that middle in untill i tipped it on its side. Even unbolting the shock at the FRA and setting in the skid helps. Then just loosen or tighten the transfer rod bolt to line back up the shock. And make sure those transfer rod bolts at the end are very loose or out all together. WIll make getting skid in a whole lot easier.

I usually bolt the front in first and then the back. With the transfer rods all the way loose the middle bolt should fall right in place pushing up. Thats how I've done it over the years.
 
Looks sharp! I like the red components in the skid. Did you have those powdercoated or do them yourself? Keep up the great work!
 
Looks sharp! I like the red components in the skid. Did you have those powdercoated or do them yourself? Keep up the great work!

Thanks! I did it myself last fall when I replaced all the plastic bushings in the skid. I just cleaned all the parts good and did a primer, paint and a clear on them. Its all holding up good.
 
This is the point I'm at. My rail extensions are with my neighbor right now. He has to machine them 1.25in forward for the idler wheels to go farther forward. I have been trying to stretch the track over the last week which made no difference with the skid going in. My tracks USA tip ups are just too long. :o|:o|:o| They have just been such a headache for me. At first I though it was a short 144in track I had but i measured it and its a 144in. Its just the extensions are machined to long in the first place. Since Im waiting on the extensions im going to get the engine all ready to go. Cleaning power valves, carbs and my clutches today. Going to have the sled all ready to go today minus the skid in. Hopefully my neighbor has the extensions machined today. If not the beginning of next week they will be. Its been snowing all week up here in northern Michigan and I hope it keeps up!! :letitsnow
 

Attachments

  • 101_0844.jpg
    101_0844.jpg
    97.9 KB · Views: 9
  • 101_0845.jpg
    101_0845.jpg
    79.9 KB · Views: 9
Have you called Tracks USA about the issue? It could be they sent the wrong part and once you machine them you'll be stuck with them good or bad. I'd give them a call before you start cutting them up.
 
Have you called Tracks USA about the issue? It could be they sent the wrong part and once you machine them you'll be stuck with them good or bad. I'd give them a call before you start cutting them up.

I called them already and they have the same measurements I have with the extensions I have. The options I had were to get a refund back on them or as they suggested, get them machined to work. They told me they have been selling a lot of them so they should work on my sled. But they also said a few people have called them about the extensions being too long and not working. But they never did get calls back after that from the people that called with the issues. So idk why some work some dont. I was just going to send them back because of all the bs with them and get some hartman extensions but I want the tip up design which hartman doesn't have. I will get it to work though. I have been talking with chris (super1c) about the problem because of the two vipers he did last fall with the same extensions. His viper had no problem with the skid going in but his wife's sled was tight going in. My option was to machine the back slot for the idler wheels forward 1.25in to make it work, which should give the skid room to bolt in.
 
Sounds like you got it covered. It is strange that they work on some sleds and some are tight. just goes to show the range in the factory tolerances on these sleds

I don't believe its in the sled tolerances, Its the extensions were made too long. Think about it, a 144in track is 23in longer then a 121in. That means the extesions should be 11.5in not their 12 3/8in. That's almost an inch too long they were made.
 
Actually getting some work done today. Power valves and carbs are all clean. The one picture of the bowl is why you clean carbs every year. Damn ethanol is all i can say. :carbs:
 

Attachments

  • 101_0847.jpg
    101_0847.jpg
    81.6 KB · Views: 16
  • 101_0849.jpg
    101_0849.jpg
    58.1 KB · Views: 13
  • 101_0850.jpg
    101_0850.jpg
    106.6 KB · Views: 14
  • 101_0854.jpg
    101_0854.jpg
    66 KB · Views: 20
I don't believe its in the sled tolerances, Its the extensions were made too long. Think about it, a 144in track is 23in longer then a 121in. That means the extesions should be 11.5in not their 12 3/8in. That's almost an inch too long they were made.

Do you know it they were especially made for the pro-action or are they a "one size fits most" type of part? I do remember Super1C had one that went right together and the other was a BEAR.
 
Do you know it they were especially made for the pro-action or are they a "one size fits most" type of part? I do remember Super1C had one that went right together and the other was a BEAR.

This is right from their website. Hate to complain about it but when I spent a good penny on them and then I have to get them machined to work right makes it a pain.

Tracks USA Rail Extensions for all Yamaha snowmobiles from 1996 to 2004. This will include all short track snowmobiles such as Phazer, SX, SRX, SXR, Viper, Venture, Vmax and long track Mountain Max's. Will also fit the 2007 to 2013 Yamaha Phazer as well. Tracks USA rail extensions interlock into the existing rail and extend hyfax the entire length. All mounting hardware included.

12" Rail extensions for 1996 to 2004 Yamaha snowmobiles. Also fits 2007 to 2013 Yamaha Phazers. 121" to 144", 136" to 159", offers the "Tip-Up" design.
 
The viper is all ready to go minus the skid being in. Got a call for my neighbor that he got my extensions machined today so I should have it running tonight.
 

Attachments

  • 101_0855.jpg
    101_0855.jpg
    105.3 KB · Views: 14


Back
Top