Thinking about a 121" on my enticer?!

Well the chaincase is all good! If the tension on one side is tighter than the other...would that cause the track to skip?
 
Well I got around to making some drop brackets for the sled, I made the holes on the brackets 2.5" apart. This thing looks awesome now! I had it on the trails last night and the "track" wasn't skipping, but I still need to take it into the deep stuff because that's when it was doing it most.
 

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My buddy said to try dropping down a tooth on the top gear, only problem is that the alternate top gears have been discontinued. I need an 11 tooth top gear. Now the 1981 300s still have from 11-14 top gears still available and the parts fiche for the chaincase looks identical to the 340 chaincase, but they are a different part number. I'm thinking the number of splines could be different on the jack shaft...but I don't know forsure. Does anybody know if these gears are interchangeable?
 
After much searching I finally found a NOS 12 tooth top gear. Last winter I was noticing what I thought was the track skipping....but really it was the belt slipping on the primary, once it got hot it would then delaminate the top layer of the belt. So, I'm hoping by dropping down a tooth on the top gear the problem will be solved!


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I have a a spare XLV skid lying around and I'm wondering if I'm going to gain anything from it over the 340 ET suspension. It says in the manual of the XLV it has just over 6" of travel. I can't see how 2 people could ride on the XLV without bottoming, but maybe that's just the way it was. Just looks like a normal 121" suspension...nothin fancy. So does anybody have any input or a manual from a 1988 ET 340 that shows the suspension travel number? Thanks!
 
umm I think it is less that that lol. the 1990 et400t sitting next to my 1997 et410t sits about 2-3" lower and has way less space between the rear upper shaft and the rails compared to the II.
 
Thanks maim! Does anybody know how to hook up a tether switch? There's an all black wire & black with white stripe on the tether switch. And then there's a black wire, black & white and black & yellow wire coming from the kill switch. No sure where to tie it in. Any help is appriciated!


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Black/white stripe is the ignition kill wire. Black is ground. Those two hooked together kills ignition.

Black/yellow stripe is the TORS wire. Leave it alone.

So hook black on tether to black in harness. Black/white on tether to black/white in harness.

Tether needs to be a normally open one. Meaning that with the cord in place on the switch current can't flow through it.

opsled
 
Yes I would definitely recommend the gear change! Stopped the belt slipping and it ran way better...never should’ve sold it lol
 
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