New SRX 700 owner/stuck after leaving sled in snow

So you propped it up and the belt was spinning then it's the washers, I prefer it set so you can move the track with one finger at idle but it won't spin on its own, then you are right at the spot that when the primary starts closing it immediately grabs in the secondary.
Your clutches could be hot due to alignment ctc or the setup or broken motor mount. Pull that secondary off tell us what's on for helix and buy a new spring green dot will back shift a little better(think of downshifting a car in a corner) the red will up shift a little quicker. Now do you have a puller for the primary? If no you can use hydraulic method search this on YouTube or order one. You need more weight in there to nring the rpm's down the weights have replaceable rivets for fine tuning. Now with both clutches off drop your ctc tool on.
As far as a slight squeal from the belt if it's new I would not worry if it's slight.
 
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Definitely shut it off before you touch the clutch. That can tear your hand off. If the primary is hot then you definitely have a problem. Best thing to do would be to check specs on everything. See what springs it has in each clutch. Check which holes the secondary spring is in. Measure center to center of clutches. If you get something thin and straight you can put it behind the primary and check for parallel and offset with the secondary. You can take the cover off the primary with it in the machine but if you could get a puller it is much easier. Also see what weights it has and make sure the rollers turn good. I know its a lot of stuff to check but if you make sure everything is what it should it will more than likely fix your problem.
 
Also if you take the primary cap off confirm the number on the inside starts with 8df and not 8bv. Its probably right but you never know if someone switched the clutch.
 
If you pull the clutch cover off while it is on the sled it is easier to put back on if you get it started using longer cover plate screws then put the standard depth ones in when finished. I believe they are #6 metric. The other easier way is to use a longer center bolt and a washer to help collapse the primary spring while installing the cover. You need to be able to get the center bolt out to do the second method. That can be difficult if it has never been out. You definitely need to get in there to check everything out and find out what parts are inside so everyone can help. Need secondary cam & spring info as well. Alignment , center to center, gearing, & tooth count on track drivers are good things to find out like everyone has mentioned. When reassembling the primary clutch please notice that the clutch & cover have an X marked on them for balancing .

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So I decided to call the dealer and speak to tech that serviced this machine. He told me everything on it is stock and that he ran it end of last winter and it ran like a top. Pulled skis off ground and definitely over 110mph. So gearing, type of springs, weights etc said shouldn't be my concern. The status of those pieces are. He can't understand why I would Not be able to break 70 and asked what surface I'm on.

I told him "listen, I ran over a 600ft field at least 20times making a 4 machine width track. If I nail it off the line i get dig and kick snow and get no good jump, likely causing the snow needs a lot more packing down and is still light, but once I get it moving it picks up and I'm pinned at 65/70 for seconds at wot and it won't budge past 70 and rpm will shoot past 9k"

Oddly enough, the machine never seems to go past 8500 rpm until I, tapped at 70. He told me clutch alignment wouldn't cause this issue. Asked me to check to see if Primary spring is maybe cracked and that the power valve could be playing a role is this too.

It's under warranty and he'd like to check it out. His shop is 7hrs from me. worse yet, is the Yamaha dealer here in nj , a dealer for their snowmobiles nonetheless, told me they can't help me. What the F. I asked him how come and he said taking my 70mph and getting it to 100 is not something they want to get involved in. Stupidest answer I ever heard...

So I can take all this time checking it all out, or ship it back to nh and have the dealer cover and fix the items they find., or spend a bunch of time on this with no luck and then the season is over. I'll check the simple things. Such as take clutches out and make sure spring isn't cracked, but I'm guessing I need a new power valve cable. Adjustment. Clutch alignment, and then whatever this clutches issues there are, and maybe ever a rejetting.

My hope is I find a broken spring and all my problems are solved. Wonder if that would cause a heat issue on primary.
 
Docfroid said:
Oddly enough, the machine never seems to go past 8500 rpm until I, tapped at 70. He told me clutch alignment wouldn't cause this issue. Asked me to check to see if Primary spring is maybe cracked and that the power valve could be playing a role is this too.
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This is info you should have posted earlier. Hard to diagnose something without all the info. Broken primary spring and power valve both would make the rpms go down not up. It is a process of elimination and I would listen to these guys on here before I would a dealer. These machines are old and most dealers do not do enough to know much about them. It is very possible you have a couple issues going on. Another check would be to use a permanent marker and put a line up on a sheave on both clutches and run it and see how far the belt is going up or down on each clutch. Not sure if it was mentioned already but what belt do you have?
 
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drew24 said:
This is info you should have posted earlier. Hard to diagnose something without all the info. Broken primary spring and power valve both would make the rpms go down not up. It is a process of elimination and I would listen to these guys on here before I would a dealer. These machines are old and most dealers do not do enough to know much about them. It is very possible you have a couple issues going on. Another check would be to use a permanent marker and put a line up on a sheave on both clutches and run it and see how far the belt is going up or down on each clutch. Not sure if it was mentioned already but what belt do you have?
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I try to be as detailed as possible. Some info I forget until now. I did mark the primary this morning and took it out on this 1000ft field. Blasted a bunch of runs across it. Got it to 80. I could go 40-80mph in about 500 ft but 65-80 feels very slow going.....Then a big issue happened.

I went to make a turn at the end of the field and was just going to roll on the throttle and go but decide to break so I can do a zero to whatever run. I heard big metal thump when I did this. And I remember I heard this a week ago when I am going only a couple mph and slam on break there is this bang. I never have to do this since when you are gong this slow you let go of throttle and you stop.

But anyhow, I decide to do it again to see if it thumps again, and it does. Then I hit the gas and nothing. Machine won't go and I hear flapping. My first thought are shit, something snapped. I looked under and the belt was loose and popped off the secondary clutch. Clutches were hot as hell too. Belt was blazing. Granted I did about 14 blasts to 80mph in a row but never heard of the belt popping off from hitting he break at low speeds. I went slowly home and in the garage it is.

The belt originally in there was stock. The new belt was from a Yamaha dealer for that machine. This brake noise like I mentioned, happened with the old belt too.
 
Definitely check your mounts and get your alignment checked out. The belt should not come off. I think you need to get some of these smaller things eliminated. There is only so many possibilities it can be so start checking and crossing things off the list and report back.
 
yamahamark said:
Sounds like motor mounts are either loose or broke. Something is definitely wrong when the belt pops off.
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What this new event allowed is to suspect motor mounts. Where and how do I check these on this machine? I'll do this tonight if I know. Did some searches and could find what I needed. Can't wait till my tech service cd Rom gets here
 
There are 2 mounts the front of the engine, 2 mounts on the rear of the engine, and 1 torque arm that goes from the back of the engine to the frame. It is right behind the primary clutch. Just need to make sure they are not broke or loose. Get something straight and long enough to go across primary and secondary and hold it flat against the back of the primary and measure the front and back of the secondary and make sure the measurements are the same. If I remember correctly that measurement should be around 14.5mm. .
 
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The secondary spring is weak or binding and it doesn't close as fast as the primary opens. Cause slack in the belt also explains the clunk when the sheaves smack together and don't close smoothly. Pull the secondary off check to see which holes the spring ends are in maybe somebody didn't wind it tight enough. Also could cause slip at speed leading to heat. I would just order one as they run around $20 and are easy to replace.
 
captnviper said:
The secondary spring is weak or binding and it doesn't close as fast as the primary opens. Cause slack in the belt also explains the clunk when the sheaves smack together and don't close smoothly. Pull the secondary off check to see which holes the spring ends are in maybe somebody didn't wind it tight enough. Also could cause slip at speed leading to heat. I would just order one as they run around $20 and are easy to replace.
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I think you are in the right way to the problem.
Can the pre tension also be adjusted to soft?
If i remember right there are diffrent holes for the tension of the spring

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maggra said:
I think you are in the right way to the problem.
Can the pre tension also be adjusted to soft?
If i remember right there are diffrent holes for the tension of the spring

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Yes it is easy to do if you dont know what youre doing when you put it back together.
 
captnviper said:
The secondary spring is weak or binding and it doesn't close as fast as the primary opens. Cause slack in the belt also explains the clunk when the sheaves smack together and don't close smoothly. Pull the secondary off check to see which holes the spring ends are in maybe somebody didn't wind it tight enough. Also could cause slip at speed leading to heat. I would just order one as they run around $20 and are easy to replace.
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I'll buy the spring for sure. Mine is stock. What holes should it be in though. So if I take secondary off if the holes are incorrect I can put it in correct. A couple notes. its actually been hard as hell to put belt on. Even when I have secondary turned out as far as possible both belts still have to scrape the secondary clutch to get it. My only guess here would be bc spring isnt letting compress all the way either or motor mount, or alignment issue. But when I open secondary all the way I swear by the sound it is opening up all the way. Is the belt scraping the clutch normal?

A few other thoughts. If I brake hard at higher speeds than low speeds this clunk doesn't happen. I assume the reason would be bc the belt is preventing that but once I get down to a very low speed the belt is high enough on secondary that that it will force it to close. Right?

I will take secondary off tonight
 
I think captnviper is right on this. Just pull the secondary off noting where the washers are at and take the helix off carefully. See what number holes the spring is in. The factory spec is 80 degrees so that should be hole 6 and 2. The secondary needs to be spinning for it to backshift so it backshifts faster at higher speeds. That is why you only notice it at low speeds.
 
Why don't you spend a few bucks and take this too a good mechanic before you destroy this beauty with your own ride and test repair procedures...

Would save you money in the long run, especially if you have a major failure doing what your doing...and you will get to ride your sled the way it's suppose to be

When it's fixed you should learn the basics doing maintenance...if your such a newbie you should ship the troubleshooting and let a pro handle it...this forum is great but you can only help so much sitting behind a computer...too many variables

A mechanic could ride it and know right away what's wrong

Trust me bud, she's worth spending a few bucks getting repaired and tuned up correctly! I'd hate to see a beauty Srx getting abused


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