daman
New member
the price on that yammie sludge is a joke too,add just a few bucks and younosboy said:I couldn't STAND the guy putting a gallon of YAMALUBE on the counter today.. he was HAPPY to pay DOUBLE for it!!!! what a
can get a real oil like interceptor......lol
Yamidude59
New member
LMAO! you and your interceptor! I stand by amsoil too! lol!
daman
New member
lol......
billbies
New member
This has been good reading, I have just finished my 3yr project and put in some standard tcw3 to put oil through the motor to break in a few miles, In my race sleds I have ran amsoil, and the injex my motor guy(Doug Flannery) really recommends Injex and thats what he uses, but I may take up that $22 deal on some Klotz thats a REAL good deal
Bill
Bill
fleet man
New member
OT "Jamoche"
I just had to do it....
Jamoche:
An easily exciteable single adult male in the age range of 20-25, who can often be found "bro'n out." Jamoches have little to no facial hair, are interested in fitness, and engage in random seemingly bizarre activities which do not reflect age appropiate behavior. Examples of such activities involve getting up early for long walks (a behavior which is too "mature" for the Jamoche), playing large amounts of Video and Board Games (too "immature" for the Jamoche). This aspect of the Jamoche is indicative of the level of awkwardness that one can expect when sharing a social experience with him. Two or more Jamoches are referred to as a "Jamocha shake."
"I saw Phil sucking on a lollipop today." "yea he's such a Jamoche."
I just had to do it....
Jamoche:
An easily exciteable single adult male in the age range of 20-25, who can often be found "bro'n out." Jamoches have little to no facial hair, are interested in fitness, and engage in random seemingly bizarre activities which do not reflect age appropiate behavior. Examples of such activities involve getting up early for long walks (a behavior which is too "mature" for the Jamoche), playing large amounts of Video and Board Games (too "immature" for the Jamoche). This aspect of the Jamoche is indicative of the level of awkwardness that one can expect when sharing a social experience with him. Two or more Jamoches are referred to as a "Jamocha shake."
"I saw Phil sucking on a lollipop today." "yea he's such a Jamoche."
daman
New member
DAmn where ya getting klotz for that money?????billbies said:This has been good reading, I have just finished my 3yr project and put in some standard tcw3 to put oil through the motor to break in a few miles, In my race sleds I have ran amsoil, and the injex my motor guy(Doug Flannery) really recommends Injex and thats what he uses, but I may take up that $22 deal on some Klotz thats a REAL good deal
Bill
xsivhp
Active member
nosboy - so you're pretty much good with any oil that is tcw3 rated for snowmobiles?
daman
New member
No....
My take on it is stay away from TC-W3 in sleds it's a PWC boat spec Say you have a "dirt bike oil" that is TC-W3 rated. but if your boat motor recommends TC-W3 then yes it will interchange or vice versa.
Two stroke oil is meant to do the same in every application however add packs can be different for different demands.
Example a boat motor usually stays at a specific RPM range for long periods While a sled can rev to the moon and back and the RPM's are always changing.
sled oil's usually uses a low ash detergent better for it's cyclic use. Boat oils (TC-W3 rated)use ash less dispersant to avoid plug fouling from the metallic ash that may build up during constant run speeds. From a lubricity standpoint both will do the job.
Again TC-W3 is designed for the somewhat cooler operating temps of outboards and has zero ash additives usually. Ash would be metallic detergents/antiwear compounds that could leave behind some cc deposits in these engines. So other, non-ash detergents/anti-wear additive/base oil combinations are used in TC-W3.
JASO-FC and ISO-L-EGD will typically be low-ash, but designed for higher operating temps of L/C and air-cooled engines, or in the case of PWC's, API-TC is usually the one to look for.
Will you grenade your engine using TC-W3 in your sled? Doubtful and way better than using SAE 30 for mixing or something worse. But it is not ideal for this use, see? Same with using ISO-L-EGD or JASO-FC in your outboard. It would work for a long time, but not ideal, see?
bottom line it's all in the add pack TC-W3 in water JASO in bikes sleds...just my $.02.
My take on it is stay away from TC-W3 in sleds it's a PWC boat spec Say you have a "dirt bike oil" that is TC-W3 rated. but if your boat motor recommends TC-W3 then yes it will interchange or vice versa.
Two stroke oil is meant to do the same in every application however add packs can be different for different demands.
Example a boat motor usually stays at a specific RPM range for long periods While a sled can rev to the moon and back and the RPM's are always changing.
sled oil's usually uses a low ash detergent better for it's cyclic use. Boat oils (TC-W3 rated)use ash less dispersant to avoid plug fouling from the metallic ash that may build up during constant run speeds. From a lubricity standpoint both will do the job.
Again TC-W3 is designed for the somewhat cooler operating temps of outboards and has zero ash additives usually. Ash would be metallic detergents/antiwear compounds that could leave behind some cc deposits in these engines. So other, non-ash detergents/anti-wear additive/base oil combinations are used in TC-W3.
JASO-FC and ISO-L-EGD will typically be low-ash, but designed for higher operating temps of L/C and air-cooled engines, or in the case of PWC's, API-TC is usually the one to look for.
Will you grenade your engine using TC-W3 in your sled? Doubtful and way better than using SAE 30 for mixing or something worse. But it is not ideal for this use, see? Same with using ISO-L-EGD or JASO-FC in your outboard. It would work for a long time, but not ideal, see?
bottom line it's all in the add pack TC-W3 in water JASO in bikes sleds...just my $.02.
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It's a little off topic but I know a guy who has used nothing but Dexron II ATF in his old EX440 ever since he bought it 1978. I rebuilt the engine for him a few years ago when it had around 28,000km's on it, the cylinders were pretty worn but still cleaned up at .030, and the pistons and combustion chambers were nice and clean too. I just shake my head everytime I think about it
Dave M
New member
billbies said:This has been good reading, I have just finished my 3yr project and put in some standard tcw3 to put oil through the motor to break in a few miles, In my race sleds I have ran amsoil, and the injex my motor guy(Doug Flannery) really recommends Injex and thats what he uses, but I may take up that $22 deal on some Klotz thats a REAL good deal
Bill
$22 ?????? inquiring minds want to know...spill the beans...
The best I have found is $26 + shipping..= $33 delivered to my door.
alswagg
VIP Member
Nosboy, I would like your input. I know Citgo makes most oil's. One of their versions is the Mystic brand, have you heard of? Specifically JT-4 synthetic snowmobile oil. Please advise. thanks Al
$22.00 was a FEW YEARS AGO...Look at the dates!!!
ANY SYNTHETIC oil is FAR SUPERIOR to conventional oil........ EVEN CITGO!!!!!
daman
New member
nosboy said:EVEN CITGO!!!!!
alswagg
VIP Member
I was talking to a Polaris Dealer this morning, His comment was "All Polaris oil, petrolium and Synthetic is made by Citgo" This goes for all of their 2 stroke and 4 stroke, pwc, motorcycle, and snowmobile oil. Not sure where he got his information. And I am not saying I will use Citgo or Polaris oil. just stating some information recieved. Al
Fro
New member
I'm going to be reassembling my top end after a port job (hopefully soon). In the past I used Yamalube...for no particular reason. I plan on switching to a full synthetic tho. The question is, during the break in period I heard you should run dino oil but don't know for sure. Any advice here?
Also, my wife works for a bottling company that basically buys bulk oils & puts any label you want on it among other products they actually formulate there. (I used to work there & got her in. I know all about the same oils being marketed under a different label...for instance Meijer Brand is the same as Ford Motorcraft for 1/2 the price). They own a label called 7th Gear Oils. I know they buy it from Citgo. For shits & giggles I wanted to know what you thought about it. They have a pretty good explanation of oils here & there home page is here . I have pretty much full acces to anything I want for cheap or free, if I can get samples. It seems like they market it more to motorcycles, I was curious about the cold weather aspects of it based on their specs.
Also, my wife works for a bottling company that basically buys bulk oils & puts any label you want on it among other products they actually formulate there. (I used to work there & got her in. I know all about the same oils being marketed under a different label...for instance Meijer Brand is the same as Ford Motorcraft for 1/2 the price). They own a label called 7th Gear Oils. I know they buy it from Citgo. For shits & giggles I wanted to know what you thought about it. They have a pretty good explanation of oils here & there home page is here . I have pretty much full acces to anything I want for cheap or free, if I can get samples. It seems like they market it more to motorcycles, I was curious about the cold weather aspects of it based on their specs.
daman
New member
you'll get tons of different opinions on this,,this is better no this is better,just do what seems to be right for you,i recommend conventional oil for breaking in then switch to full syn..
journeyman
Active member
This is just my recent experience. When my 2002 Viper was new I ran the Yamalube 2-S oil the first season. Then by season two I switched to the Amsoil Interceptor being it was the SO CALLED better choice for powervalves staying cleaner according to their advertising. Last season I had a VERY stuck pto side powervalve. When disassembled, I could not believe how dirty the PV's were and everything else for the matter.....including the ring lands. BTW, this thing sips oil too, so the pump is by no means turned up too high. My machinist friend from work has a 1998 SRX 600 that he has kept in fantastic condition with 12,000+ miles on it. This summer he tore it down to replace all the bearings, rings, etc. and commented how clean everything was including the PV's.......he has always run Yamalube in it. This kind of did it for me. I figured "why pay more for the Amsoil and get these results"? I ended up switching back to Yamalube.
BTW: on another note, I have another friend who dynoed one of his slighty modded Doo motors with various oils in it. On the Blue Marble on his given machine he lost two HP. He said he now runs the expensive Doo oil. He also said he thought the Yamalube was a decent buy for the $$$.
BTW: on another note, I have another friend who dynoed one of his slighty modded Doo motors with various oils in it. On the Blue Marble on his given machine he lost two HP. He said he now runs the expensive Doo oil. He also said he thought the Yamalube was a decent buy for the $$$.
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PhatboyC
New member
The gas we put in as a huge effect on how clean the PV's will be. It is even harder to compare your friends machine with yours. Different gas, engine, driver etc...
Most gas station don't have much detergent in their gas. I recommend to use only TopTier gas. I'm sure you'll see a difference on the pv's.
Most gas station don't have much detergent in their gas. I recommend to use only TopTier gas. I'm sure you'll see a difference on the pv's.