136" suspension issues!

Almost 700, I reread your post. If your track is off the ground in the back, your control rods are too short. There was a thread a while back about this. When I first did my sled I didn't have the drop brackets, and the rear of my track sat about 3'4 of an inch in the air. You can add a spacer to the bottom of the control rod to lengthen them and allow the track to sit flat. If you can't find that thread, I can look for my old spacers and give you the measurements. They helped until I got the brackets installed. Let me know.

Dave ;)!
 
For the limiter question, yes the distances from the end of the bolt to the base of the adj nut, as for the preload, i first had zero preload with the weight of the skid off them went to almost zero with the weight of the skid on the shock (as per Skidooboy's advice)......James
 
OK, thanks again guys, this is all very helpful. I will surely back off the preload and either shim/lengthen the rods, or move them forward like B2SO. I might just get a pair of aftermarkets that have the adjuster to do just that. So Dave, you liked the C&A's? I had them on an SRX with M10 and I had the same problem as you, they turned way to hard and with the m10 I could not get enough ski pressure to make them work well. I was thinking that they might work great with this. I like my ski pressure light, but this thing was a little much. Because of the track being up, just a little throttle and the ski's were off the ground which naturally if the skis are not on the ground they won't help you turn. Even with C&A's I would not have been able to turn yesterday. I could come in to a turn real hot and brake hard and it would turn but could not even think about accelerating through the turn. My buddy whom I can usually go around at will through the trails actually passed me on an Edge tripple. I was not to happy about that. He wasn't so happy though when I laid it on him on the roads with my little 780. Took down two 1035 cats, a ported 05 Mach, and the tripple edge. Pretty good day and good way to start off the winter.
 
the spacers are 10 mm in length, the same size around as your transfer rods. Maxdlx
 
needing assistance too

I too have a 136" on my viper. I use all stock holes and have sucked the front limiter straps way up, but the rear of the track still sits off the ground about a half inch or so. My shocks are all in stock factory settings, and I weigh 210 lbs without gear. Can someone get me more info on these spacer and photos? Perhaps anyone got them to sell?

By the way, here's the photos of my viper project, can anyone see if I did anything wrong or need to adjust? http://www.woodycam.org/136.htm

photos would greatly help.

Thanks
joel
 
Hi Joel, good to hear from you again. Send a pm to Skidooboy, he had the 'skinney' on those spacers and how to make them. It was sometime last year that his post was on here.

Jon
 
i just got done stretching my sled to 136. luckily one of my buddies buys total loss insurance sleds and he just happend to have a 136 yamaha that struck a culvert. the guy gave me the entire sled minus hood, seat, gas tank, and engine and said "whatever you dont use bring back." needless to say i took the 136 rails, tunnel extension, and the longer side heat exchangers. the sled i took all the parts from gave me a great template to measure off of to know where to drill the relocation holes in my tunnel. i was gonna do the mod this year anyway and was really close to starting to order a bunch of parts. good thing i cheacked with the local sled head first. saved a little time and a lot of money
 
Added the spacers, pulled the straps up, and softened preload. Much better. Lost a lot of traction and weight transfer so I need to keep monkeying with it to find that happy median. B2SO, how did you get the rods in the front hole? Did you shorten your rods? There is no way mine is fitting there.
Is it worth buying Maxx or bender rods to use the screw in adjuster and still have some room for transfer. OR, something I saw last night, has anyone taken 10mm off of the top part of the bottom piece to help compensate for the 10mm spacer that was added. When the spacer is added, it will reduce the amount available for transfer unless something is changed. Make sense?
Also, Reaper, how are you keeping that thing from spinning like mad with Zero preload? I have some preload and it is spinning way to much for my liking. Have you found way to get it to hook?
 
To those who have put in the drop brackets. Would you say that it was an improvement. I just feel like the geometry of my skid sucks right now. I shouldn't have to do all of this funky stuff to make this work. Have you noticed your sled handling well and getting good traction with the drop bracket. Using the stock holes, I just don't see how you can get it perfect. It is kind of like an M10. You can tune it to be good for one thing but severely sacrafice another. So far, to get it to hook up well, it handles terrible, to get it to handle good, it spins to much. Where is my Expert X when I need it.?
 
Almost700 said:
To those who have put in the drop brackets. Would you say that it was an improvement. I just feel like the geometry of my skid sucks right now. I shouldn't have to do all of this funky stuff to make this work. Have you noticed your sled handling well and getting good traction with the drop bracket. Using the stock holes, I just don't see how you can get it perfect. It is kind of like an M10. You can tune it to be good for one thing but severely sacrafice another. So far, to get it to hook up well, it handles terrible, to get it to handle good, it spins to much. Where is my Expert X when I need it.?
Click to expand...
im trying mine out this weekend. ill report back on sunday night!
 
mine are Mt. performance adjustable rods , i just put them in the hole then adjusted my rider height/transfer with the shocks ....
 
I have zero problems , transfer rods are set perfect 50/50 and i adjust when needed , no pushing , thing is on rails still ,if i adjust the rods for full transfer i can pull the skis out of a corner on the trail .... i have a buddy that builds doos , he moved a couple skids on his doos and he talked me out of relocating , for the same reasons you guys are dealing with now ....
 
ok ....so i own a '02 short track viper that i longtracked and put a 141 mt max skid in it. there is a srv in our group that we want to make a 136 with my old short track viper skid and rail extensions........when reading through this post i didnt see any distances for drive shaft to first (front) mounting hole for stock viper location. i would like to keep stock distances for i think this would be suffeciant for the srv. was wondering if any of you had this distance or all of them again would be nice....thanks...
~brock
 
I just had mine off the ground and I noticed that the transfer rods don't bottom out. Something (the shock) seems to be stopping the skid from fully extending causing the support bars to bow outwards. I removed the rear shock bolt and that allowed the skid to fully extend. It seems that there is about half a bolt hole difference from where the shock is to where the arm needs to be..with the shock appearing to be short. The way I see it the center bolt need to move ahead which would allow the shock mount arm to pivot backwards and everything to fit. I don't know if this has anything to do with my original problem but I would imagine it is all related.

The sled sits almost stock without the rear shock in place...it sinks until the skid couples. If I push on it the skid moves but is still stiff...maybe my center shock is done as well (there is vertually no preload on it).
 
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