Fogging 3 cylinders at once

nos boy have 2 agree with u nothing better for cleaning than atf used lots of it in big trucks fuel tanks 1 liter every fill up never a injector problem and can see it doing a really great job on the power valves allso. i allso use the lucas oils on all my 4 wheelers great stuff. Al
 
So you guys are saying it would be beneficial to toss a shot of ATF into your oil resevoir or even into the fuel tank here and there throughout the season to help de-sludge??
 
I would rather you use combustion chamber cleaner at least once a year if you are thinking about fuel additives... RING FREE works well and so does SEAFOAM !!! ATF in your fuel really wont do anything by tossing a "shot" in the fuel tank!!! Using HIGH DETERGENT ( super unleaded) fuel works better than throwing a shot of atf OR regular unleaded... I would NEVER USE ANYTHING BUT 93 octane in ANY OF MY SLEDS,,, but,, I take really good care of my ICE (internal combustion engines) and I use ONLY SYNTHETICS for daily lubrication!!!! GUYS who ride THOUSANDS of miles per year WILL NOT BENEFIT from synthetics because the cost is too high and the sleds only last a few years.. its cheaper to buy new sleds!!! i ride about 500-700 miles a year and only go out a few weekends... I have to drive SIX HOURS to get really good trails,, and SOMETIMES a LOT MORE because of inclement weather!!!
 
Just wondering, to all the SRX owners, to reach the carbs to spray you fogging oil, you have to remove the top portion of the air box, right ?
To do so you have to remove the gaz throttle cable and another one thats on top of it, how do you guys remove those cables ? I know its a simple question but I just couldn't figure it out. Thanks for the help.
 
Yami600 said:
Just wondering, to all the SRX owners, to reach the carbs to spray you fogging oil, you have to remove the top portion of the air box, right ?
To do so you have to remove the gaz throttle cable and another one thats on top of it, how do you guys remove those cables ? I know its a simple question but I just couldn't figure it out. Thanks for the help.
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I remove the whole air box. The hardest part is getting the throttle cable under the teet that holds the brake cooling scoop.

Pop off the scoop, two screws (bulkhead and coolant bottle) and slide it back off the carbs and then toward the secondary, wiggle the cable under the teet, angle the box up and out.
 
nosboy said:
Hey,,PZ1.. I am NOT SAYING that fogging oil doesnt work.. I have to go into ELEMENTARY explanations on this forum for the MAJORITY of people to understand.. if I got into SURFACTANTS AND SCRUBBERS I would PROBABLY lose you!!! ( I'm sure I would)... let me try and explain... DID you ever see an ATF leak that has been leaking for a while??? When you spray brakecleaner on it, it dissolves IMMEDIATELY.. That is becuse the ATF SOFTENS the GRIME!!!! DETERGENTS in the ATF are FAR SUPERIOR than ANY detergents in any fogging OR motor oil!!!! Detergents soften up CARBON DEPOSITS and FOGGING OIL does not... WHY NOT soften your deposits ALL SUMMER LONG and keep the CARBS from corroding???? FOGGING OIL DOES NOTHING for the FLOAT BOWLS... FOGGING OIL does NOTHING for the EMMOLIENTS in carb gaskets and o rings!!!!! the ATF also SECURES the CARBS and FUEL SYSTEm... NOT ONLY the cylinder combustion chambers!!! AMAZED????????
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It's no accident that transmission techs have the softest and cleanest hands in the business. Which is why they get all the chicks... well, and also because they like movies about Gladiators. Or maybe it's from watching Patrick Swayze in Road-house too many times, dunno.

I worked at a tune-up shop back in the early 80's and we used tranny juice all the time for sticky valves and crankcase desludges. I've used plain old water down the intake at elivated RPMs for combustion chamber deposits (too much and you'll end up with a bent rod or two) and wallnut shell blaster for IVDs.

I don't see why ATF's cleaning properties wouldn't cross over to 2 strokes.
 
snomofo said:
I remove the whole air box. The hardest part is getting the throttle cable under the teet that holds the brake cooling scoop.

Pop off the scoop, two screws (bulkhead and coolant bottle) and slide it back off the carbs and then toward the secondary, wiggle the cable under the teet, angle the box up and out.
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Ha ok, so you don't have to remove your cables from the thumb throttle if you remove the whole airbox. When I come back I'll try to figure it out for the next season.
 
ATF is wondeful stuff. I have used it for years to clean and de sludge my engines, 4 stroke and 2 stroke... Just like nosboy I try to tell someone to try ATF, and they freak out.. But thats only for transmissions... Your going to blow your stuff up.....blah blah blah... But you know whose stuff is always running, and running good... Mine. There is alot of marketing crap out there, Do some research and find your answers.. Fogging oil is better than doing nothing, ATF works great also, plus it cleans everything for you.
 
I was a trans tech for a FORD dealer for 5 years. In the MID to late EIGHTIES!!! Made a KILLING off of A4LD trannies in AEROSTARS!!!!! Also did a MILLION governor gears (customer PAY labor) jobs on ATX'S.. It PAYED the bills and KEPT ME IN PARTYING MATERIALS (if you know what I mean)
 
Hey DV8..... MY STUFF runs FINE too!!!! I'm STILL trying to get the racecar into the NINES,,,but,,, Thats a MONEY THING!!!!!
 
Hey, for years now when I know I'm going to store a car for awhile, I'll get a quart of atf, pour it down the carb while it's idling, just slow enough so that it keeps running, then when I get toward the end of the bottle I dump it down quick to kill the motor. And that's how I put it to bed. My cousin, who's a big classic car buff, and was a GM mechanic for years, taught me that.
 
I can vouch for ATF as well. Used it in my sled and it worked great. It was easy to do, just drop the fuel pump intake line into the quart of ATF and run it as long as you can. As far as getting it started in the fall, the first thing I do is clean the carbs anyway (it's easy to do and good insurance) so getting the ATF out was a non-issue. It didn't smoke that bad with what was left in the system after cleaning the carbs. I don't plan to summerize my sled any other way.
 
nosboy said:
Hey DV8..... MY STUFF runs FINE too!!!! I'm STILL trying to get the racecar into the NINES,,,but,,, Thats a MONEY THING!!!!!
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Yeah I have a money problem too.....lol, Need a new tranny for the mustang before summer gets here.. Trying to get it into the 11's, Then roll bar problems. Whats your race car, The Cuda?
 
73 challenger 446cubes... 440 .030 0ver 11 to 1 pisons with 325 cc intake ports and a 71cc chamber..... I have the 572 STROKER motor on the stand and I just got the aluminium 1/4 inch 6061-T6 plates to make the front engine plate and the mid plate, so i can start installing this BADBOY when i get back from MOPARS at the STRIP in a few weeks....
 
Just looking for the BEST IDEAS when it comes to chopping up the plate and how to mount the alternator.. There is a 2 and 1/2 inch centerline stagger that I am trying to figure out just WHAT THEY were thinking,,,but,,,,, MOPARS at the strip and STARING at a few guys setups will answer those questions!!!! las Vegas,,, here I come!!!
 
I remove airbox, warm engine, grab closest kid, two cans of fog, one for me one for her.. I put a small rag inbetween each carb to catch inbetween shots, shut gas off (added valve, comes in handy) just have her count 1..2..3.. going back an fourth through carbs,, I'll spray as she shakes can to continue. Do this for 30 to 40 seconds Kill engine.. I then pull carbs, remove bowls spray with carb cleaner & use air compresser, (If you do it then u dont have to worry about gum & varnish build up, jets are then clear, I still check to be sure). I then add two ounces of oil down spark plug holes, slowly turn engine by hand three revelutions, reinstall plugs, use rubber stopers to plug carb holes & exaust.. (trying to eleminate air to crank) Drain all gas from tank.. ok I'm done..
 
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