2000 SRX summer build

00SRXWHERRY said:
So that top bar should be the other way?
Click to expand...

Yes, and unless the SRX proaction is different than my viper your W arm will need to be fliped also? But man does it look awesome, wish i could have powdercoated my skids. You did a great job. CCC
 
I love this build! You're giving me the inspiration to tear my 98 SRX completely down. Oh oh, I'll need to get some more beer for the garage!
 
All right I'm back from my second deer camp now I sould be able to start concetrating on getting this thing finished. As far as the bar W/ the 2.5 wheels, yes I need to flip it but as far as the W bar goes it is in the right position. And yes the belly pans are brand new. My right sidded one had a large hole in it so I went all out to get all three new so the color matched.

Ok first I'm going to get the front end all put together I should have no problems W/. that.

Next part I have some question for you guys. I'm going to start putting the chain case, brake, and finial drive together. Can you guys kida give me an order of how you have done it to make it easier. I belive most of you start with the brake and rotor.
 
Did a couple of improvments to the front end while putting it together. First I added grease fittings to the radious rods here.

004-8.jpg


Next I added fittings to the ski post so grease can get down to the sleve where the ski attaches to the saddle.

First I used a 12" long by 1/4 drill to drill from the top down threw the inside of the ski post so grease can get inside of that saddle sleve. I really dont have a good pic of that but you get the idea.

005-7.jpg


003-9.jpg
 
Next I took those plastic caps for the ski posts and filled the inside W/ JB Weld and let it dry. Then I drilled and tapped the plastic cap threw the top and JBweld and put a grease fitting in.

002-10.jpg


001-8.jpg
 
And finially I put the caps on. They usually fit really tight but I added some TFT paste to help seal them off. So now grease goes inside the ski post and down to the ski saddle to grease that sleve.

006-5.jpg
 
suspension issues back and front

The arm that attaches to the front of the rear Ohlin shock is upside down, the one with the 3 " wheels. Some mentioned it earlier but you still haven't corrected it.



The grease zerk on the cap that covers the top of the spindle won't do anything, you will be filling the inner shaft with grease that won't do anything but filling it full of grease. That shaft cavity is welded to the top of the ski mount. The bushings ride on the outer diameter of that shaft. If you were to drill a grease hole in the shaft to feed the bushing with grease you won't produce enough pressure to force grease into the seam between the shaft and the bushing because the grease will push out under the top of the caps. The front zerk on the trailing arms are the ones that grease the bushings your trying to lube.
 
rlbock said:
The arm that attaches to the front of the rear Ohlin shock is upside down, the one with the 3 " wheels. Some mentioned it earlier but you still haven't corrected it.



The grease zerk on the cap that covers the top of the spindle won't do anything, you will be filling the inner shaft with grease that won't do anything but filling it full of grease. That shaft cavity is welded to the top of the ski mount. The bushings ride on the outer diameter of that shaft. If you were to drill a grease hole in the shaft to feed the bushing with grease you won't produce enough pressure to force grease into the seam between the shaft and the bushing because the grease will push out under the top of the caps. The front zerk on the trailing arms are the ones that grease the bushings your trying to lube.
Click to expand...


He did fix it if you look at the FRA. Its just floped down in pic. If you read the whole post he is using those zerks on top to lube the ski saddle shaft at bottom of spindle. Not a perfect solution to keeping those sleves greased but will work just fine. Has nothing to do with the bushings. :bash: Looks great and i bet it rides even better. CCC
 
better look again

The 3" wheel frame is upside down, it can't flop 180 degrees.

The ski spindle shaft is welded shut against the ski holder, grease isn't going anywhere but back out the top.

The front zerk greases the bushings and the area between the trailing arm housing and the top of the ski holder
 
First I used a 12" long by 1/4 drill to drill from the top down threw the inside of the ski post so grease can get inside of that saddle sleve. I really dont have a good pic of that but you get the idea.

He drilled out the bottom so grease can get to sleve. Ill give ya the FRA not swinging 180, couldnt remember off top of head but he did flip it so at least its in the right direction. Just needs to unhook shock now and flip wheels to top. CCC
 
Ok, lets explain a little better W/ some more pics.

First I used a 12" X 1/4 drill to drill down threw the center of the ski post into the horizontle shaft that is welded, that holds the ski sleve and bolt.

005-8.jpg


And that red stuff is grease as you can see it is getting to the sleve just fine. Yes it creates alot of pressure when greasing but I use a pneumatic grease gun and so far the caps stay right where there at and don't push up or leak any grease. The caps being pushed up was my biggest concern when doing this mod but so far so good.

006-6.jpg
 
Next the rear suspension as far as I can see there are only 2 ways to put that bar on and the first time was the wrong way. It has been swaped but when not installed in the sled it can be be moved to the up position and down position and that may be what your seeing. Here are some more pics.

004-9.jpg


003-10.jpg


002-11.jpg
 
Yea thats right. I thought the arm swung up into the corect position. Just couldnt remember off the top of my head for sure. I was right. That was bugging me thanks for clearing that up. Very cool idea for the spindle, might give that a try. CCC
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top