ive just about had it with this stupid thing... desperately need help

i didn't throw a fit, just got upset because i don't want to dump more money into it, so i went inside posted here, and relaxed with my girlfriend and said im going to hook up my primer system, get it to run and see if the air flows out, but i like what you said, that is what separates the actual pros from the other guys. as for the pump, ill take a picture of it along with a picture of what i have for my oil that runs into my fuel system, when my pump was pulling fuel the fuel was finding its way into my oil lines, will this bleed out as the oil pump pumps oil? i mixed my gas with oil just in case to find out... and i have no money at the moment so i wont be able to get the diaphragm kit...
 
I think you will be ok. I would just buy a new fuel pump. I think they are like 27 bucks at dennis kirk. If yours is like mine, it is so rusted I don't think it will come apart anyways. I know I need a new one. I need to shut the fuel off when I am done running it, or it will flood out. Worse when tank is full.
 
ok guys i got it to run, but the one side still pushes bubbles into the carb so i think its not getting enough fuel as it needs, what would cause this to happen? im trying to get pictures of it but my dads out right now so i cant just yet but would still like to know some reasons this should be doing this, if it might be the diaphragm pump, or the actual pump itself
 
well i finished putting everything back together, but its too late to start it up tonight, tomorrow i have to go up north to look at a power-sports open house for SUNY canton and ill lift the back end up and see if it fixed it... i also broke piece of my throttle cable trying to install my air box, the piece where it goes from 1 out to 2 there's a plastic housing thing,and i broke the housing around but my throttle still works, is this something i should be worried about getting worse down the road or will i be fine with it for now?
 
Should be ok. Just keep an eye on it, make sure it is not binding. I'll look in my parts bin and see if I have an extra laying around.
 
ok i started it up to go to my friends house to head up north to see the collage and did my normal routine, let it warm up, got everything ready, and headed off to his house in hopes of success but didn't get much, better than before tho, running more smooth, but still my top end when speeding up from like 20 mph to 50 mph it does about 7000 rpms, at 50 the rpms drop down to about 5500 rpms and my speed drops to about 50 or 45... would this be caused by the one side letting in air bubbles and not filling up with as much fuel? i have everything perfect to what i can think, only thing it can be is my fuel pump letting in air or my clutches, and hopefully its the fuel pump, i don't mind replacing it but ill have to get some money first. thanks allot guys for the help you gave so far =) theo are you looking at selling the cable? or giving it to me because i have no money right now and don't want you taking time to look if i cant buy it, don't want to waste your time
 
With the RPM issue you are having it sure sounds to me like a clutch issue. I had an Exciter that would do exactly the same thing, it ran like a champ but would lose RPM's up on top. My clutches were in bad need of a tune up and bushing replacement. Come to think of it my Vmax was bogging bad at about 45 MPH and would not speed up any further when my primary clutch grenaded. My suggestion would be to make sure your clutches are in good shape and rollers, bushings, weights, and springs.
 
No not looking at selling. Let me see if I can find the cable. You just need the plastic cable guides right? They are yours if I can locate them.
Look at one of the other forums. Fellow has a problem similar to yours and sounds like a clutching issue at this point.
 
is it in my primary? i pulled the front piece off my primary and checked the bushings, weights, and spring, cleaned them all up, not sure if they need a replacing but i did clean them all up nice and good, and yeah i guess its just the cable guides, although i didn't know the cable actually came out of it... or are you talking about the cable and guides just not the plungers?
 
ok guys this is what i gathered... rode the lake for the first time ever today(had a blast) sled was doing same thing topping at 55 and dropping to 5500 rpms and 45 mph, i was talking to a kid in school, and he said it is probably my buttons in my secondary, but i decided to swap to my old belt that i had, and i get really good top end, topped at 85 mph and 7000 rpms... but no low end, could this be my buttons? i know by what i did that its not a fuel pump issue anymore and my primary clutch is in good shape and i haven't taken my secondary apart so im hoping it could be the buttons? should i give this a try?
 
Clutching is one of those things that I still struggle with. I know if the spring setting is in the wrong hole it can give you issues. Not sure what it should be set at. Maybe someone else can chime in?
 
ok guys got more information, i was riding the lake again today and with my old belt it didn't even run more than 55 mph, just did the same thing as the new belt i have, i also talked to someone that had a 91 and he said he found out that switching his plugs to champion n2k plugs and it ran better, so he replaced the cdi box, switched back to the old plugs and it ran great. whats the difference between the br8es im running and ngk n2k plugs? will this do what he said and if it runs better than its my cdi box? he told me it should run better cold than warm which i realized it does...
 
A worn belt will definately hamper perfomance. If you think of it, a worn belt will be thinner and is like trying to take off in second gear and now when you get to top end it is like having a gear that is so tall that the there is not enough motor to pull it. Is your new belt Brand new or new used?

BR8ES plugs are what is called a HOT plug, what this actually means is that there is less heat dissapated from the electrode to help aid the plug from fouling. Lots of people have the misconception that a Hot plug actually sparks hotter than a cold or colder plug this is entirely untrue. A cold or colder "heat range" plug is designed to transfer more of the heat that is generated friom the combustion process to the cylinder head which is intern cooled by your cooling system.

As for the N2K plugs I have no Idea.

Not real sure what you mean by it should run better cold than warm... To me if it runs better cold than it does warm I would think that the jetting is off, also my machine runs better the colder it gets out, meaning that my jetting is more in the optimal range. Do you know how to do plug readings?
 
i know how to read plugs, the guy i talked to asked me if my sled ran faster when i first tried it rather than after a while, which i realized was true, it ran about 85 mph with the old belt and when warm only 50 mph, my new belt is new new, do you think if i switched back to the br9es the sled requires it might run better than it is now? maybe that's my problem
 
No, changing the plugs will not cure your issues. It sounds as if you either have a jetting issue or a clutching issue.
 
last time i checked my plugs it was more on the too much fuel color, my primary clutch seems fine, my secondary is kinda questionable, i was told i probably need new buttons for my secondary, i have stock jets, but i have an aftermarket pipe, the end of the can on the pipe also moves around like it rattles when im running, should i weld the end of the pipe to stop it from rattling?
 
Last edited:
Okay, You may need to repack your can as this can have an effect on performance. You need to post a picture of what your pipe looks like, usually the pipe and silencers are not welded together for a reason, the reasons are usually service of the exhaust and installation. Also if your plugs look onthe rich side you may want to jet down (you'll want to take into account for cooler temps) to help with the color ofthe plugs plus your sled will run lots better a wfo.
 
how do i repack my can? ill take pictures of it all tomorrow morning when its light out and post them if air is leaking out of my can instead of going out the very end of it should i fix that before downing my jetting?
 
P1010100.jpg

P1010102.jpg

the first picture is the whole pipe, i cant find a model number or brand at all, the second picture is what i was saying where the little curve piece to go down on the end spins around like its just set in there and needs to be welded
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top