bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
lol super
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
so what is the procedure for removing the choke and plungers.I would think the carbs have to come out to do so.
sideshowBob
VIP Member
bluemonster1 said:so what is the procedure for removing the choke and plungers.I would think the carbs have to come out to do so.
You probably could do it with the carbs still installed but, if you're like me, I wouldn't recommend it. There are way too many small items that have to be removed that are just waiting to fall down under the engine!
The three enrichment plunger actuators cams have to be loosened then the actuator rod has to be slid sideways out of the carb bodies and actuator cams to allow easy access to the plungers. There is a spring on both ends of the rod and white nylon cap on the cable end as well.
Once the plungers are exposed its easy to get a deep socket over the retainer and removal is obvious then.
Bob
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
wouldn't you know it..the set screws for them cams are pointing downward..so would be hard to get a screwdriver in there.Carbs would have to come off..but I am not in the mood for removing carbs or anything right now..just need to ride.That I can do in the Summer or fall when I have carbs off for cleaning.Just getting really depressed now with the lack off snow .Even in the West like Saskatoon and Regina it is bone dry...the worst dry spell for them in their history I read and the temps are way above normal as here also.Fixed my snowblower for nothing ...no snow to blow.... making me actually sick already.When January hits,it will be going on 11 months without snow to ride,,how can that be here in Central and Western Canada...not good overall.
mattysmith440
New member
send some trucks to labrador, we have lots to share
I just did this mod on mine as I have the motor apart right now,blue you are correct the screws are on the bottom,it is easy to do, the plungers are 7mm long and made of brass I dont think you should use a dremel or grinder I just used a fine flat file and it took just a few min. also I could not get a 14mm socket on the plungers it had to be a wrench.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
thanks for the info sxr1000
rx1jim
New member
Bluemonster,
I feel your pain with the lack of snow and cold weather. Here is a solution for you: Take your carbs off your sled and make the modifications. Once you take your sled apart so it cannot be ridden, it is almost guaranteed to snow for you.
I feel your pain with the lack of snow and cold weather. Here is a solution for you: Take your carbs off your sled and make the modifications. Once you take your sled apart so it cannot be ridden, it is almost guaranteed to snow for you.
rx1jim said:Bluemonster,
I feel your pain with the lack of snow and cold weather. Here is a solution for you: Take your carbs off your sled and make the modifications. Once you take your sled apart so it cannot be ridden, it is almost guaranteed to snow for you.
so true lollllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll...here its very cold and its snow
No snow here in Vermont either...
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
yeah well they are calling for plus 2C on Saturday with rain/snow showers..what the hell is up with that I ask......
Really don\t want to remove carbs now because I have another issue that is bugging me.The throttle cable end that threads into the plate on the carbs is stripped out.And the lock nut on top also is spinning out.If I hit throttle to hard,the threaded end wants to move up.So finally played with it till I had lots of slack in cable and put blue locktite over everything.It seems to be holding for now.This is another issue I am hoping to work on nest summer instead of now.Guess I am not in the mood to fix things anymore,the energy is not there.This season's start has really bummed me out good.
Really don\t want to remove carbs now because I have another issue that is bugging me.The throttle cable end that threads into the plate on the carbs is stripped out.And the lock nut on top also is spinning out.If I hit throttle to hard,the threaded end wants to move up.So finally played with it till I had lots of slack in cable and put blue locktite over everything.It seems to be holding for now.This is another issue I am hoping to work on nest summer instead of now.Guess I am not in the mood to fix things anymore,the energy is not there.This season's start has really bummed me out good.
radman1420
New member
Primer ?
would adding a primer be helpfull. Im considering trying to do this to help mine start. It has been sitting at my dads for 5 months w/out being started and I pulled for 30 min no fire. Got pissed and crabbed a can of carb cleaner and shot a couple sprays in the air box. Wala she fired and ran good ..... at least in the trailer since there was no snow.
would adding a primer be helpfull. Im considering trying to do this to help mine start. It has been sitting at my dads for 5 months w/out being started and I pulled for 30 min no fire. Got pissed and crabbed a can of carb cleaner and shot a couple sprays in the air box. Wala she fired and ran good ..... at least in the trailer since there was no snow.
edunn69
VIP Member
5 months would require a carb cleaning!
Yeah the primer was my thought too. I rounded up the kit yesterday. More than one way to skin a cat. That should take care of it.
sideshowBob
VIP Member
IMO...a boat type, in-line bulb primer between the tank and the fuel pump is not the best way to go.
A few years back I tried hooking up an in-line bulb type primer with a hand held spare fuel pump I had. I found the fuel pump is very resistant to having fuel pressure fed through it and I feel it could damage the pump diaphrams.
I believe the best primer setup would be the plunger type that feeds into the carb boots.
Jm.02c
Bob
A few years back I tried hooking up an in-line bulb type primer with a hand held spare fuel pump I had. I found the fuel pump is very resistant to having fuel pressure fed through it and I feel it could damage the pump diaphrams.
I believe the best primer setup would be the plunger type that feeds into the carb boots.
Jm.02c
Bob
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I think the SRX's should of all had electric starters on them so we could crank that motor fast and she would fire up quickly then.Pull start on a high performance sled is just to weak and slow.
HDYAMAHA84
Member
Did you look at the reeds when ya had the carbs off? they could be gummed up and stuck?? just a suggestion
The primer I picked up is the plunger type. Just plumb it in before the fuel pump and drill a little hole in each carb and tap in the little nipples and should be good to go.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
give us some pics then of your set up for the primer and lines to the carbs.I am sure a lot of guys would like to see how you are doing it.
aSRX600guy
New member
I didn't read all 6 pages, but mine was hard starting when the leading edge of the piston was burned away. It ran fine once it was running, but was hell to start and fouled plugs like crazy (also makes it hard to start)
speaking of plugs, I switched over to Champion Powersports plugs, and they are great for resisting fouling.
another trick to help a hard start is to choke it for a bit before you shut it off.
I also ran into some wire under the engine shorting out and causing intermittent weak or no spark. That would also make it hard to start, and seam even harder if you were pulling away "forever" with no spark, only to regain spark and have it come to life.
speaking of plugs, I switched over to Champion Powersports plugs, and they are great for resisting fouling.
another trick to help a hard start is to choke it for a bit before you shut it off.
I also ran into some wire under the engine shorting out and causing intermittent weak or no spark. That would also make it hard to start, and seam even harder if you were pulling away "forever" with no spark, only to regain spark and have it come to life.
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