mrviper700
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95rxl650
Member
So the bearing is exposed on the clutch side?
This is killin me slowly. lol
This is killin me slowly. lol
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mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
95rxl650 said:So the bearing is exposed on the clutch side?
ya, its a sealed bearing you can see it thru the steel cup looking at it from the clutch side of the frame..
95rxl650
Member
"pop", there goes my snoopy dance out the window. lol
Alright, one more thing comes to mind. Can the brake rotor be installed backwards??
I'm thinking that the collar thats cast on the rotor could be whats stopping the shaft from moving further in due to the clip stopping at that protrusion.
Alright, one more thing comes to mind. Can the brake rotor be installed backwards??
I'm thinking that the collar thats cast on the rotor could be whats stopping the shaft from moving further in due to the clip stopping at that protrusion.
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
95rxl650 said:"pop", there goes my snoopy dance out the window. lol
Alright, one more thing comes to mind. Can the brake rotor be installed backwards??
I'm thinking that the collar thats cast on the rotor could be whats stopping the shaft from moving further in due to the clip stopping at that protrusion.
no it would not sit in the caliper then. looking down at rotor from top you should see, the brake hub then theres a flat washer then the snap ring that fits into groove on jackshaft going towards center of sled..
mrviper700
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mrviper700
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take off the top gear and the spacer. show me a pic of the shaft sticking thru the case.
then.. when you look down at the brake hub sticking thru hole in the frame, is it hubb, washer then circlip?
then.. when you look down at the brake hub sticking thru hole in the frame, is it hubb, washer then circlip?
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
someone has a washer or spacer put on the backside if the jackshaft in the chaincase, just remove the chaincase. you can do it the easy way:
1.) which is to loosen up the track tension.
2.) then remove bottom bolt and top nut, slip off chain and gears
3.) remove 2 bolts holding caliper on case-12mm heads, flip caliper over out of the way.
4.) remove 4 mounting bolts for chaincase to frame-14mm heads
5.) grasp the chaincase and the brake rotor and wiggle it off the shafts as 1 unit, leave parking brake intact and connected to rotor.
you will now find out whats wrong with the jackshaft being spaced wrong, the spacers in the back of the chaincase are in wrong or washers added, something is wrong on the backside.
you dont have nearly enough threads showing with your topgear on and nut, thats why its sticking out on the clutch side.
theres spacers that sit in the backside of the chaincase, should be a spacer with a 0-ring that fits inside it inside the chaincase/seal then the brake rotor, then the washer then the snap ring.
1.) which is to loosen up the track tension.
2.) then remove bottom bolt and top nut, slip off chain and gears
3.) remove 2 bolts holding caliper on case-12mm heads, flip caliper over out of the way.
4.) remove 4 mounting bolts for chaincase to frame-14mm heads
5.) grasp the chaincase and the brake rotor and wiggle it off the shafts as 1 unit, leave parking brake intact and connected to rotor.
you will now find out whats wrong with the jackshaft being spaced wrong, the spacers in the back of the chaincase are in wrong or washers added, something is wrong on the backside.
you dont have nearly enough threads showing with your topgear on and nut, thats why its sticking out on the clutch side.
theres spacers that sit in the backside of the chaincase, should be a spacer with a 0-ring that fits inside it inside the chaincase/seal then the brake rotor, then the washer then the snap ring.
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95rxl650
Member
Alright. Be right back.
I just pulled off the caliper and realized that wasnt the problem.
I just pulled off the caliper and realized that wasnt the problem.
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
ok, mines off, I did this in real time so we can compare. I had to change out the track in this sled so since last post I removed chaincase and am done waiting on you to post and we can see whats wrong.
I am gonna go check to see if theres a width differance between the top spacer and the lower to see if those can be switched, i never tried to put them together backwards but lets see......lol
I am gonna go check to see if theres a width differance between the top spacer and the lower to see if those can be switched, i never tried to put them together backwards but lets see......lol
95rxl650
Member
Hub washer clip it is.
Where would the spacers be. There are none between the case and frame where the mounting bolts pass through. Case is tight to the body.
I found a few chunks of metal in the chaincase. There were none before and it only went 10 miles since it was put back together.
Where would the spacers be. There are none between the case and frame where the mounting bolts pass through. Case is tight to the body.
I found a few chunks of metal in the chaincase. There were none before and it only went 10 miles since it was put back together.
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
pull the case...............its behind the chaincase where the problem is
95rxl650
Member
Alright. I just did the driveshaft bearings and dont recall any spacers. Hope this isnt my fault after all the bitching I did. lol
Take me abit to pull it. Life is happening around the house, it's blowin and snowin like crazy and I'm wrenching in a porta-shop/tent.
Pics of the gears. Looks like some fresh marks.
Take me abit to pull it. Life is happening around the house, it's blowin and snowin like crazy and I'm wrenching in a porta-shop/tent.
Pics of the gears. Looks like some fresh marks.
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
top and bottom inside spacers are the same width and diameter, both have inside o-rings.
so its either extra washers or something spacing it over towards clutch side, or the wrong jackshaft! Either way, you gotta pull it so its not wasted work.
so its either extra washers or something spacing it over towards clutch side, or the wrong jackshaft! Either way, you gotta pull it so its not wasted work.
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
snowdad4 said:rethink the chaincase. theres the possibility someone has the wrong collar behind the upper gear, used a polaris gear, or made there own spacer.
even though it appears correct, most likely the added length hanging out on the clutch side on the jackshaft is a result of improper chaincase side. you can easily make up the 1/4" difference without upsetting the chain plane in the wrong hands.
could even be the wrong bearing in the chaincase or its installed wrong.
BINGO< this guy seen/found the problem a long time ago in forum land....lol. This is a heck of a long thread, just reading it from the beginning.........
95rxl650
Member
Dang thats cold out there, but I'll take the advise when I can get it.
ok, here's what I have. I'll check the spacers for sizing.
In that quote, are we talking about the spacers behind the gear or the case?
ok, here's what I have. I'll check the spacers for sizing.
In that quote, are we talking about the spacers behind the gear or the case?
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
behind the case, is there only the one spacer on the jackshaft, then the brake rotor, then the washer, then the snap ring?
with what you have pictured, theres nothing inside the chaincase for the top ahsft except the bearing correct?
with what you have pictured, theres nothing inside the chaincase for the top ahsft except the bearing correct?
95rxl650
Member
I re-read what snowdad was saying and may have dismissed it due to the fact that the shaft cant move any tighter to the brake caliper.
95rxl650
Member
Correct. I slid the spacer on the shaft so it was in the picmrviper700 said:behind the case, is there only the one spacer on the jackshaft, then the brake rotor, then the washer, then the snap ring?
with what you have pictured, theres nothing inside the chaincase for the top ahsft except the bearing correct?
95rxl650
Member
Both top and bottom spacers appear to be identical and 1/2" width/depth with the o-rings